Who needs a Bridgeport?

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BeeAMaker

BeeAMaker

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Elkhart IN, USA
I used the Mill in my Maker-space for the first time last night! We purchased a small Harbor Freight mill about a year ago with the intention of modifying to CNC. Well we have been so busy with other stuff it just kind of sat there.

I decided to make my own Carbide tool so we cranked it up! The first real issue we noticed is there is about a 3/4 turn of play in the hand wheels! Not good for precision work. But we worked around it and even before CNC I am going to upgrade that to some good ball screws.

SS rod, 1/2" x 12" from McMaster = $6.41
Carbide cutter from Amazon = $5.55
Tool Holder, 12" (since I use it for other tools I'll add only 1/4 cost) = $13.98
Doing it my self, Priceless!

So Bridgeport - Eat your heart out!
(obviously I will need to get a smaller set screw, but it was all I had at 1:30 am)

ct02.jpg


ct04.jpg
 
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Smaller screw? lol ... hit it with a hacksaw and then sand the tip smooth so it doesn't get caught on anything (like your arm) and you're good to go! :)
 
And here I sit with metal lathe and mill (not Bridgeport but big enough). I never really considered carbide for wood but, at $5.55/bit to try it, well, I'll just have to. Got scrap rod and can turn a handle.

Thanks for the post.
Regis
 
RegisG said:
And here I sit with metal lathe and mill (not Bridgeport but big enough). I never really considered carbide for wood but, at $5.55/bit to try it, well, I'll just have to. Got scrap rod and can turn a handle.

Thanks for the post.
Regis
Click to expand...

Here are the links from Amazon, I got them in about 6 days.
Dimond, round, and square. I got 2 more tools to make!
The round and dimond ones a re little bit more.


www.amazon.com/YUFU-Diamond-Carbide...51&sr=1-1&keywords=YUFU-Diamond+shape+Carbide
www.amazon.com/YUFU-Round-Carbide-R...51&sr=1-6&keywords=YUFU-Diamond+shape+Carbide
www.amazon.com/YUFU-Wood-Reversible...TF8&qid=1485540758&sr=1-33&keywords=YUFU-tool
 
I'm working on a set of four carbide tools. Not sure how to best go about fitting the diamond cutter. Sadly, I don't have a mill. I'm thinking the square, radius and round cutters are going to get fitted using a Dremel and hand files.

I look forward to seeing the tools when you get them done.

Regards,
Michael
 
I NEED A BRIDGEPORT!!!! Well, I WANT a Bridgeport. Nice work. A chamfer to match the angle of the carbide would tidy up the design a bit. You could just angle the rod and mill till you just touch the bottom flat.

I'm guessing this could be made without a mill at all with careful grinding on my 2 x 72 belt grinder. Something I may try.

BUT I STILL WANT A BRIDGEPORT!!!

Danny
 
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Appreciate the links. Ordered all 3. Must be from China with such a long shipping time. But, priced right for an experiment for me.

Thanks,
Regis



BeeAMaker said:
RegisG said:
And here I sit with metal lathe and mill (not Bridgeport but big enough). I never really considered carbide for wood but, at $5.55/bit to try it, well, I'll just have to. Got scrap rod and can turn a handle.

Thanks for the post.
Regis
Click to expand...

Here are the links from Amazon, I got them in about 6 days.
Dimond, round, and square. I got 2 more tools to make!
The round and dimond ones a re little bit more.


www.amazon.com/YUFU-Diamond-Carbide...51&sr=1-1&keywords=YUFU-Diamond+shape+Carbide
www.amazon.com/YUFU-Round-Carbide-R...51&sr=1-6&keywords=YUFU-Diamond+shape+Carbide
www.amazon.com/YUFU-Wood-Reversible...TF8&qid=1485540758&sr=1-33&keywords=YUFU-tool
Click to expand...
 
RegisG said:
Appreciate the links. Ordered all 3. Must be from China with such a long shipping time. But, priced right for an experiment for me.

Thanks,
Regis
Click to expand...


No problem, They are from China, but they came fairly quick. Might have shipped from a US warehouse. Amazon said I wouldn't get them until the end of Feb.They arrived last week, about 6 days after ordering.

If this works out like i thin it will - I'll be ordering packs of 10. :)

Here is a link to some DIY instructable on making your own without a mill.
Make your own carbide lathe tools
 
I don't know how smooth you can get wood with a skew, but turning with carbide is a real treat! It is a bit of a learning curve. You need the tool rest a bit lower so the blade can come into stock at a right angle.

I have to hold it square too or the corners dig in. With a bit of practice I can use that to my advantage and skew a bit of material off while sliding it across the material.

I didn't have time tonight, but if anyone is interested I'll do a quick video clip showing how well it cuts. Just like a very sharp skew. I have a feeling the Round and diamond ones will be great for some nice detail work.

I still use a gouge to rough it down, I see I could become accustom to both type of tools. It's a great addition to anyone tool box!

The picture don't do it justice, but no sandpaper was used and it is smooth. But then again, maybe some of you pros out there can do that with a skew, but I can't get them that smooth, yet
firstcut.jpg
 
Another tip or trick to remember is ...

You don't need to keep the tool FLAT on the tool rest!

By angling your tool and presenting the tip at a raised bevel angle (compound the angle) you can cut in a fashion that is very similar to how a skew works. Just make certain you are using the MIDDLE of your carbide bit for the cutting action while you do this .... using the toe or the heel will cause you big problems in catching the material and tearing things apart.


A skew, properly sharpened and used appropriately, can leave a surface that you can begin sanding at 600 grit or better .... with the surface you have there, I'ld start with 180 grit or 220.



Also .... use something to mount your carbide bit directly in the lathe (piece of round stock with a hole drilled in the end, tap it for an appropriate screw and mount your carbide so that it spins vertically). Use a diamond surface hone to touch up the cutting edges. Something around 1000 grit will put a very fine edge on there. I have access to some 3000 grit diamond plates that are just wonderful for sharpening my carbide bits. You can ALSO use a diamond hone or sharpening stone to gently shape the cutting edges in this fashion, creating a rounded corner on square carbides
 
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Haven't had a chance yet to make my round tool, but i did manage to draw up and 3D print a protector for this one.

It snaps onto the bar and I can pull it down to the handle so it is out of the way and then push it back up with my thumb to cover the blade, keeping it safe.

If you have a 3D printer you can download the STL here and print one.
Carbide Lathe Tool Protector - Repables

CarbideProtector.jpg
 
I did a round cutter for me and a Friend brought his cutter so I made one for him too. This Harbor Fright mill isn't to bad. Only took about 1.5 hours each.

The diamond cutter is next!
Round1.jpg


Round3.jpg


Now I got to get busy and turn some pens.
 
Slop in mill handwheels

BeeAMaker said:
The first real issue we noticed is there is about a 3/4 turn of play in the hand wheels!
Click to expand...

Glenn; This isn't really a problem. That amount of play is a bit on the high side, but 1/4 turn is very common. You can tighten that up, but don't try to eliminate it entirely as the wheels will get hard to turn.

The secret is to drive the X, Y, and Z racks in only one direction. As long as you take the slop out at the beginning the wheels are accurate. Remember that your mill may actually have metric lead threads on it. Set a "zero point" at one end and plan accordingly. You will get very tired of counting turns when driving from one end to another... DAMHIKT

CNC mills are an entire subject in themselves. They do not care how much slop there is because them measure the actual position of the table, not the position of the wheels. Ballscrews ($$) are very pricey, but don't have any slop.
 
randyrls said:
BeeAMaker said:
The first real issue we noticed is there is about a 3/4 turn of play in the hand wheels!
Click to expand...

Glenn; This isn't really a problem. That amount of play is a bit on the high side, but 1/4 turn is very common. You can tighten that up, but don't try to eliminate it entirely as the wheels will get hard to turn.

The secret is to drive the X, Y, and Z racks in only one direction. As long as you take the slop out at the beginning the wheels are accurate. Remember that your mill may actually have metric lead threads on it. Set a "zero point" at one end and plan accordingly. You will get very tired of counting turns when driving from one end to another... DAMHIKT

CNC mills are an entire subject in themselves. They do not care how much slop there is because them measure the actual position of the table, not the position of the wheels. Ballscrews ($$) are very pricey, but don't have any slop.
Click to expand...

We tightend the slop up at the last meeting, only about a 1/16 turn of play now. Much better!
However we are going to make an improvement by adding a DRO from eBay, Digital Readout DRO Set 6" 12" & 24" Igaging AC Articulating Remote Display | eBay We are taking donation from the group. This will pretty much eliminate any slop issue as the DRO won't change until the table actually moves. We are at about $60 so far, plus I add about 10% of sales from our store.
 
I have DRO on my mill and you will still have slop in the hand wheels/cranks. BUT, it will give positive positioning so you can see exactly where your part is. Definitely easier to read than the dials.

BTW, almost done making 3 carbide holders & handles. Hardest part for me has been the angled recess under each bit. Simply resorted to grinding it.

Regis

BeeAMaker said:
randyrls said:
BeeAMaker said:
The first real issue we noticed is there is about a 3/4 turn of play in the hand wheels!
Click to expand...

Glenn; This isn't really a problem. That amount of play is a bit on the high side, but 1/4 turn is very common. You can tighten that up, but don't try to eliminate it entirely as the wheels will get hard to turn.

The secret is to drive the X, Y, and Z racks in only one direction. As long as you take the slop out at the beginning the wheels are accurate. Remember that your mill may actually have metric lead threads on it. Set a "zero point" at one end and plan accordingly. You will get very tired of counting turns when driving from one end to another... DAMHIKT

CNC mills are an entire subject in themselves. They do not care how much slop there is because them measure the actual position of the table, not the position of the wheels. Ballscrews ($$) are very pricey, but don't have any slop.
Click to expand...

We tightend the slop up at the last meeting, only about a 1/16 turn of play now. Much better!
However we are going to make an improvement by adding a DRO from eBay, Digital Readout DRO Set 6" 12" & 24" Igaging AC Articulating Remote Display | eBay We are taking donation from the group. This will pretty much eliminate any slop issue as the DRO won't change until the table actually moves. We are at about $60 so far, plus I add about 10% of sales from our store.
Click to expand...
 
More4dan said:
I NEED A BRIDGEPORT!!!! Well, I WANT a Bridgeport. Nice work. A chamfer to match the angle of the carbide would tidy up the design a bit. You could just angle the rod and mill till you just touch the bottom flat.

I'm guessing this could be made without a mill at all with careful grinding on my 2 x 72 belt grinder. Something I may try.

BUT I STILL WANT A BRIDGEPORT!!!

Danny
Click to expand...

I made mine over a year ago using my belt sander and files. Been using them ever since and love them. Here is a link to my post.
 
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