While we're at it.........

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Texatdurango

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Looks like another group buy is in the works for the multi-start tap and dies so I thought I'd mention something that most if not all might find useful.

While it's nice to have a new tap and die to cut those neat threads in your new creations, it's also an expensive learning period if you use whatever acrylic, ebonite or alumilite blanks you have on hand to practice on.

Let's say for arguments sake that the typical acrylic blank sitting around in your stash is $2.50 to $3. Trust me, you will go through many of these as you embark on your quest to find just the right size and shape of pen to make.

I found a source for clear acrylic rods and tubes that cost pennies a foot rather than dollars an inch so if you like saving money, read on!

These clear acrylic rods and tubes turn much like the acrylic blanks you now have. If you make a prototype pen and screw it up or don't like the length, diameter, threads, or just the overall shape....... don't worry, your just out a few cents on clear rod, just toss it away and make another! :)

Another nice benefit is that when trying new types of filling mechanisms, you can actually see what's going on inside the pen body or cap so you can get your hole and thread depths down perfectly.

The source is: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=440&parentcatid=443 and while you are there, they also sell black and white acetal (Delrin) rods dirt cheap and clear acrylic sheets for making all sorts of display stands,etc..
 
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Texatdurango

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The reason I mentioned buying the rods AND tubes, is that the tubes make for dandy components to different styles of pens. Here is a pen with an ink window using the clear tube. Save on postage....... buy the tubes now, even though you may think you won't need them for a while! :)

This particular clear tube stays pretty clean too. This is my favorite pen and I've probably run a gallon of ink through it and it's still very clear inside when the ink level drops.

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Texatdurango

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thanks for the heads up!

do you think that the cheaper extruded plastic is good enough or should we sprint for the cast kind?
anyone tried both?

Showing both my honest opinion AND ignorance all at once...... I bought both the expensive cast rod and the cheaper extruded rod. I made the mistake of glumping all the different diameter rods and tubes in one big cardboard tube. When they were new, one was 4' long and the other was I believe 5' long so telling them apart was easy.

Now that I have cut a little off of each and they are random lengths I can't tell the difference between the cast and extruded rods so don't know if I'm using the good stuff or the cheap stuff! :eek:

One is SUPPOSED to polish better than the other but I can't tell which. :redface:

I would suggest buying the cheaper extruded rod.
 

MarkD

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Jan 24, 2011
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Sayre, PA
Thank you for the great advice! I was looking for a source of Delrin anyway so I'll place an order for some of each.

Much Appreciated!
 

soligen

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I just thought I'd add in that after the clear when you want to use a colored blank, PR does not thread well. I used PR for my first try adn it was a wasted blank - I then gave up on PR and used aluminum and alumilite for the threads.
 

KenV

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Juneau, Alaska.
Ed Davidson makes strong recommendations in his videos about using the cast resin --- somthing about problems with the extruded rods ---

Ed has used a ton of it with his turnings -- espcially the Yo-Yo-s
 

LEAP

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Old Orchard Beach, Maine
Thanks for the link George, I used PVC when experimenting and it is soft so even though it threads easily it also compresses/expands when threading so I had to thread a piece of harder plastic to put inside the body tube when making the male threads on the outside.
 

Texatdurango

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Ed Davidson makes strong recommendations in his videos about using the cast resin --- somthing about problems with the extruded rods ---

Ed has used a ton of it with his turnings -- espcially the Yo-Yo-s

I haven't seen him post in a couple years so can't recall his reasons for cast vs extruded, I guess I'll have to go look through some posts.

Any threads come to mind?

BTW.... Sorry I didn't get a chance to chat with you friday night, the little demo thing took up more time than I thought. Next thing I knew, we were being hearded out! Wanted to show you my pens I made with the new fountain rollerballs, they're going to look pretty sharp I think!
 

titan2

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North Highlands, Ca, USA.
Ed Davidson makes strong recommendations in his videos about using the cast resin --- somthing about problems with the extruded rods ---

Ed has used a ton of it with his turnings -- espcially the Yo-Yo-s

I haven't seen him post in a couple years so can't recall his reasons for cast vs extruded, I guess I'll have to go look through some posts.

Any threads come to mind?

BTW.... Sorry I didn't get a chance to chat with you friday night, the little demo thing took up more time than I thought. Next thing I knew, we were being hearded out! Wanted to show you my pens I made with the new fountain rollerballs, they're going to look pretty sharp I think!

George,

Saw your fountain rollerball pen in the 'Group Buy' thread.....pretty interesting pen. Do you have any further info on it? Might like to try one myself.

THANKS,


Barney
 

KenV

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Juneau, Alaska.
George --

My memory is that Ed has his comments and cautions in one or two of his videos where he points the viewer to sources and makes the case for getting the cast acrylic. The videos are in Juneau and I am still in Tucson.

I have not seen much of Ed here in recent times, but he is still active in pens as webmaster for the AAW virtual chapter on pen turning.

Sorry we did not have more time on Friday --- I was also faced with the dragon like challenge of a hungry wife who had delayed her supper until after the penturning session on Friday night (at the Desert Woodturning Roundup in Phoenix/Mesa AZ).

The rolling righter in my wifes pen has been going strong for 3+ months without any maintenance or hassles. Just need to treat it like a fountainpen as it will wick ink onto fabric just fine.
 
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