Which Lathe Tool Do You Use Most Often and Why?

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DRAT

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I just blew up another blank........:redface:

I was using a rounded end, and I guess it just dug in a little bit too much, and pieces flew everywhere....................one more blank bit the dust.:confused:

So I guess I'm wondering which tool edge do you find the most reliable when turning PR and other materials?

DrAT
 
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I stuck with a round-nosed scraper for acrylics for a while, but now that I've learned to use a light touch I finished a whole acrylic pen with an Easy Wood Tools rougher (carbide tip tool).

My roughing gouge (which, to be fair, needs sharpening badly) blows up plastic blanks like crazy.

Of course I just finished my second non-broken acrylic pen, so don't take my advice too seriously. :)
 
I use my 3/8" bowl gouge to rough them to round. Then i use an EWT pen tool from Craft Supplies to finish turn. I also use a 3/4" skew if I'm feeling lucky.
 
Skew all the way. I have been using the leading point to remove the square edges on the blank. Just have to be careful not to dig in too much; keep the tool rest as close to the blank as possible. Sometimes use the parting tool to cut blank to size, but for the most part I use the skew. One tool to sharpen, leaves a very smooth surface and reduces the amount of sanding needed.
 
1 1/2 inch skew on all materials. I will switch to a smaller skews as I get closer to final dimensions. Also, I find that the faster speeds are less prone to allow a tool to catch and rip a blank apart. It is not the blank but a combination of tool use and speed. The tool must be introduced to the spinning blank in a way as to not catch...bevel rubbing as it is called. I don't say this to be bragging but I can;t remember the last time I had a blank ruined while turning. And I turn all sorts of materials. Dull tools, incorrect tool usage and aggressive turning will cause a blank to rip apart.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
For over a decade, I used a large roughing gouge. Then, after finding IAP, I was convinced to try a skew. NOW, I turn nearly everything, start to finish with a skew. Although as I near the final dimension, I will often change to a smaller, sharp skew.

After reading Don's entry, I will say I CAN remember the last catch!!! But, it does not happen often and usually, when I allow my mind to wander.
 
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But I'm older than you so I have an excuse. I can honestly say that most of my disasters were from carelessness on my part...not paying attention or day dreaming or simply not paying attention. Did I say not paying attention?
Do a good turn daily!
Don

ed4copies said:
After reading Don's entry, I will say I CAN remember the last catch!!! But, it does not happen often and usually, when I allow my mind to wander.
Click to expand...
 
Depends upon kit and blank (wood or acrylic) normally use ¾" roughing gouge, ½" or ¾" skew, parting tool. With roughing gouge or skew go right to 320 grit or higher sandpaper. Seldom use a parting tool anymore.
 
My wife and oldest son use roughing gouge start to finish. If I feel the blank is going too slow for myself I will grab either a spindle gouge or skew to speed things up. And make sure to tools are sharp.
 
Still learning here. My mentors all give different advice as to speed and tools.
HOWEVER..............
The one thing they all agree on is SHARP TOOLS. The sharper the better.

Of everything I have tried, the skews I use seem to make the job the easiest for me.
 
1" skew. Start to finish. No need for sandpaper. As mentioned though any tool if sharp will get you there. Just pick one and practice with it. Just abit different feel between wood and acrylic but once you find that sweet spot turning can be fun.
 
Always use a 3/4 spindle gouge from start to finish. Rubbing the bevel lets me start sanding with 400-600 paper. ALWAYS turn down hill. A blown up blank can be caused from starting your cut off the blank & trying to cut inward, especially on wood.
 
Most of the time I use the EWT Penturning tool (R2). Works well for me. I also use a spindlemaster to get that final smoothosity we all so much crave:biggrin:
 
I used to use almost every tool i had but i recently settled on a hss 5/8 in spindle gouge. I can do almost anything with this tool. I can get a finish as good as using a skew. I also sometimes use a 1/8 in parting tool.
 
I warm shop plus sharp tools and warm blanks helps - especially with PR. Cold PR and acrylics will blow up like mad if you so much as look at them wrong. :)
 
Woodchuck Pen Pro. I use the tool at a 45 degree angle for all the roughing cuts from square and almost to finish size. I then lay it flat on the toolrest for the final finishing passes. I normally am able to start sanding at 400 or finer. Excellent tool and the bits last quite a while before needed sharpening.
 
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