What Type of Glue Do you Use for Pen Glue-ups?

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Imported poll question missed, please edit

  • CA

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Polyurethane

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Epoxy

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
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I use a gap-filling CA 'cause I usually don't have a lot of time to do a glue-up then wait overnight to turn. Although, I have been contemplating trying poly for certain pens.
 
I use only poly. It expands a bit and helps fill gaps. I think it also gives a bit more time to twist and turn the tube to spread the glue evenly. I don't mind the overnight wait, as I usually have a few blanks glued up and ready to go whenever I have time to visit the shop.
 
I Use CA for pen blanks, but I only use Gorilla Glue for bottle stoppers. We started with CA on those, but you can guess what happened. I am showing one to a prospective consignment buyer, and it fell out of my hand, in excruciatingly slow motion, to the tiled floor below. When it hit the ground, the stopper went one way, and the topper went the other. Needless to say, I was horrified. We have found that if we use Gorilla glue, we have to actually CUT the wood from the stopper to get it off. And, luckily, our buyer gave us a second chance!
 
I use Epoxy for acrylics, and have recently switched to Poly for wood and other porous materials. I simply like the expansion idea of Poly for really sinking into the material. have not hade much luck with acrylics and horn but may have been for other reasons than the glue itself. I havn't given up on it yet though.
 
I use CA for the 7 mm pens and Gorilla Glue for the larger sizes. I find that the larger size tubes freeze too quick for me to make any adjustments and Gorilla Glue gives me the time I need. I do have a harder time cleaning out the larger tubes though.
 
I use epoxy because it: cures quickly, fills gaps, has no fume problems, provides a variety of cure times, is inexpensive and is stronger overall than CA.
 
I use only 5 minute epoxy. It's easy, flexible, and I don't have blow out problems. I don't like CA because of the odor and I have a hard time getting good coverage. With epoxy I can turn in 45 minutes, so it's not a problem with time. Tried poly, didn't like cleaning up the mess where it expanded.
 
With CA coming out on the top of the list here. I wanted to add a line for the CA Bulk Buy Program.
I have an ongoing purchase of CA.
the selection can be seen at
http://e-zbond.com
they have a $100.0 min order requirement. So I gather the orders then place a single large order with them and then mail the pieces to the individuals.
I am now currently workng on the third order so far.
I have a price list that includes all shipping and postage costs for everything on their sight.
e-mail me for quotes or orders
I can also send you the whole price list if you want it.
examples of prices are
1 oz bottles of CA $2.54
2oz. bottles of glue for $4.05
8oz bottles CA $12.88
4 oz. epoxy $4.68
8oz. epoxy $8.28
8oz. accelerator $6.89
and 1 gal. of accelerator only $37.50 (less than .30 per ounce)
these prices include shipping and postage.
When the next order arrives I will have the assesories available on an individual basis. I am ordering one bag of each, Tips, Tops and Caps, and Applicators, and will sell them at their individual cost, five cents each for the tips, and applicators. with the tops and caps going for 25 cent apiece.
 
I use both CA Glue and Polyurethane but for different purposes. I use the poly to glue in the tubes. My belief is that it remains more flexible that CA glue in this regard. CA glue being so hard tends to be unforgiving with a brittle blank that is turned very thin (like Dymondwood for a straight sided Slimline)

I use the ca glue as a sanding sealer and to fix cracks and minor defects (read beauty marks)

A
 
Angelo,
the humor is not lost on me, but in a serious demeanor and my best straight faced tone of voice. filling in the "Defects" can and usually does add to the pen. certainly if it already has a figure to the wood. I have filled some pretty large cracks etc. by going over the blank two or three times.
A great technique for salvaging a pen. not necessarily information for you personally as I have seen your fabulous work. but I thought I would add this so that others don't take your comments as a second rate method of getting away with poor materials. In my opinion CA filling is a must to acheive a good finish on any pen. not to be confused with the ca as a finish itself.
 
I picked CA because I use it more often than anything else. Poly works well but there are some problems with using it on blanks that are too porous. In my experience, on woods such as unstablized Box Elder, Poly tends to expand into areas to be sanded/finished. Makes for finishing problems. On less porous woods, its Poly all the way. Allows the wood to move w/changes in temp and humidity.
 
Originally posted by Mark Hulette
<br />Just wanted to see what everybody's using out there and WHY.
Please give a reason why you use what you use...
Click to expand...
I started with the trusty CA but found a lot of my brass tubes would break free if stressed.I took some advice and tried poly glue.I have had 100% success with it.I don't mind waiting overnight as I usually make up a batch of pen blanks(ten or so) and they may sit around for some time waiting for me to get to them[:)].A warning I would pass on to others;don't ever use a metalised epoxy!! I had some around the shop and tried it out.It works great to hold everything together but when I trimmed the ends with my brand new barrel trimmer it took the edge off the cutter in a few uses.I had to resharpen the trimmer and now just use poly with wonderfull results.
 
I use a CA glue. I started with Gorilla Glue and it worked OK at best. But as I started to get into turning a little more, I realized that gorilla glue failed to provide good bond between the brass tubes and the wood blank. I have not tried a poly but after reading some other posts, I will just have to try.
 
Hi Perry!

It's nice to see you jumping right in!

Gorilla Glue is a Polyurethane glue. I'm surprised you didn't get a good glue bond with it. Poly glue cures in the presence of moisture. When I'm gluing tubes into blanks, I swab the hole in the blank with a moist Q-tip first (I live in a dry climate). Then when I'm ready to glue, I swab the glue into the hole with another Q-tip. The poly glue expands as it cures so I get really good coverage. I use the Gorilla Glue brand because it's handy, but any of them should be as good.

If you find that CA glue works for you, then that is what you should use! Try other things when you feel like it, but use what works!

Scott.
 
I've been using 5-minute epoxy when I have several blanks to glue at a time, mostly 'cause I don't like the smell of CA, and I had some tubes freeze up partway in with the CA. I fellow turner suggested the following: coat the inside with thin CA first, wait for it to dry, check the fit of the tube, hit it quickly with the trimmer if needed, then use thick CA to glue in the tube. I still use epoxy with several glueups, but when I want one quick, I use the above, and have had good success.
 
Hi,

I use thin CA inside the pen blank first... just for strength (and superstition I suppose). Then 5-minute epoxy for the tubes.
 
I'm by no means an expert, but when using Gorilla I drip glue into one end of the drilled blank (on two or three points along the same opening, so I get two or three separate drips down the side of the hole - better coverage), use a q-tip to spread it down, and look through the hole with a strong light to make sure I got every square millimeter, and then use a fresh q-tip to do the outside of the tube. Q-tips are cheap... I also use Q-tip brand swabs, as i find they cotton sticks to the stick better than on the generic ones, and I hate finding little cotton pieces in my pens...

Obviously, sanding the brass tube as usual is needed... This isn't really that different than any other technique, IMHO, it's just that gorilla (and other glues of its type) are much more forgiving in terms of setup time than CA or even 5-minute epoxy, and Gorilla in particular expands to fill gaps, where CA does not change in volume at all.
 
Originally posted by Scott
<br />.........Poly glue cures in the presence of moisture. When I'm gluing tubes into blanks, I swab the hole in the blank with a moist Q-tip first (I live in a dry climate). Then when I'm ready to glue, I swab the glue into the hole with another Q-tip. The poly glue expands as it cures so I get really good coverage.................

Scott.
Click to expand...


Dang,

I thought I was the only one out there that had found this out. This is the exact method that I use except I drill my hole a little larger because Russ told me to on his site. [:)]
 
In the class I took, they recommended the thick CA glue. On antler and horn, I read to use titebond adhesive glue.
 
I've used super glue and find it has many faults. I now use poly. I have to wet my blanks (low humidty) and remember to wear gloves. [I had black fingers for weeks.] I've experienced the tube pushed out of the blank by poly glue expansion. This was solved by a slight filing of the hole.
 
John, you wrote:
'I've experienced the tube pushed out of the blank by poly glue expansion. This was solved by a slight filing of the hole.'


I've only had the 'push-out' happen a couple times, but I've since started using rubber bands to keep the tubes in. They're not always easy and a pain to get off sometimes. Might your solution be easier?

What filing of what hole are you doing?

Thanks for any info,

rick
 
I just switched to the Poly glue for tubes last week. I initially had 1 tube push out, but Chris suggested rubber bands like Rick states above. They seem to work great. I've glued up 8 kits so far. I'm also plugging the ends with wax from a votive that my wife didn't like the scent of. So I have the only pen tubes with a pumpkin spice scent while gluing ;-).
 
I started out using thick CA, but after running into problems with blanks spinning off the tubes, I started using PU (Gorilla Glue). In the few months since, I've not had a single problem. I also use the pink dental wax sheets that BB sells to keep at least one end from filling up as the PU cures. From what I've read about PU glues, it doesn't seem that there would be much difference between brands, so next time around, I'll probably just get whatever brand is easiest to find. Here in Canada, it seems that only Home Hardware carries Gorilla Glue.
 
WOW!,
Talk about thread resurrection!
CA all the way usually medium but with wodds that "grab" like ebony or Corian,
I use thick.
No problem, Iuse what works I hate to wait.
I think it all depends on how rough you get the tube.
Bouncing the tubes on an 80 grit belt sander gets them pretty rough.
 
Nothing but polyurethane glue...usually Gorilla. Someone on here mentioned that Titebond's poly foams less, but I have not found that to be the case. They both foam, and I can't see any difference.
 
I'm using thick CA. I let them sit overnite. No reason other than I glue a couple, turn a couple. Like most I rough up the tube 1st as well. BTW, Is there another group buy for CA in the works anybody? Thanks.
 
Marc,
about the Bulk Buy. yep there sure is. just go to
http://yourdonspens.com/CA_Glue_Page.html
In fact you can buy glue there any time. you just might have to wait a little longer one time than anouther.
it all depends on how close we are to the min. order requirment.
 
I started out with epoxy because that was what came in the starter kit from PSI. But I didn't really care for it. Seemed really messy to work with, what with the mixing, trying to get it on the tube, etc. I think I tried to push the working time too long too, as I thought I could mix up a batch and glue in several tubes at a time, but at least one of them the wood just shattered right off the tube while turning. Barely adhered at all. So I switched to thick CA as that was what I had used in the Woodcraft class I took and have been pretty happy with it so far. May give poly a try sometime though - I'm still feeling my way around trying different things. Plus the smell of CA kinda gets to me - I can stand it for the tubes, but I've been avoiding even trying a CA finish for that reason.

Eddie
 
I first started out using 5 minute epoxy. After having the tubes comes lose while using the barrel trimmer, I switched to Titebond Poly glue. I've used it on both wood and acrylics with great results.

I use a q-tip dipped in water and wet the inside of the blank. I then spread the poly glue on the tube and twist it in. I normally let them set up overnite but I have turned a couple sets within a couple hours after gluing them up and did not have a problem.

The bottle says it has 100% cure at 4 hours so if need be, I can glue up the blanks in the morning and turn them in the afternoons (on weekends only) otherwise they definately set up overnight or longer.

Linster
 
I use CA for the 7 mm pens and fixing cracks etc.... Gorilla Glue for the larger size pens. I find that the larger size tubes set too quick for me to make adjustments. Gorilla Glue gives me the time I need.
 
I started with epoxy and switched to Gorilla Glue. I put a blank in my mouth and exhale through it while applying glue to the brass, gives me plenty of moisture. (Glad I'm not allergic to any wood!) I also scratch the brass before gluing. I've heard that it's not needed, but it's a habit now. I use CA for repairs and to strengthen the holes on stoppers. CA and sawdust can make some great looking burls!
 
I use five minute epoxy. It works. Started out using poly but it goes hard in the bottle and I waste about 50%. I have worse luck with CA and rarely use it for anything. My usual experience is: open bottle, use fraction of a drop, close bottle, next day all hard and wasted. With epoxy I do glueing ahead of time and turn when I am ready.
 
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I was using only epoxy, but recently changed to CA for all my glue-ups. It just makes things go so much faster. So far, I have'nt noticed much difference between the two, except for the curing times.
 
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