What method do you use in cutting blanks?

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vthowe

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...sorry, I got some feedback my other post was confusing, so I'm taking another crack at it.

What method and/or tool do you use to cut your blanks with when you're cutting them the length ways to keep the cut straight? Are you free handing it on a band saw, using a fence on a band saw or?

I tried to cut mine on a TS w/ a sliding jig but can't get them even. Then tried to sand them down to a consistent level that didn't work either...:mad::frown:

Thanks!
 
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I use a band saw to cut the blank length wise....but don't really care how straight with in reason...as this will be turned to size on the lathe
 
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darthintel said:
I use a band saw to cut the blank 1/8" longer than the brass tube...don't really care how straight the cut is ...as I then use a barrel trimmer after gluing in the brass tube.
Click to expand...

Yup...I'll add that on some blanks, when they need to be exact due to an undersized or minimal sized blank, it gets marked and run through the bandsaw with a miter gauge. Those I drill on the lathe at about 100 rpm.
 
I rip mine on a tablesaw against a fence. I use two push sticks - one holding the blank against the fence and the other pushing the blank through the saw. I can usually get pretty close to center, but if not then I just make sure the thinner side is against the fence and I run the thicker piece back through. That way, at least they're even.

Regards,
Eric
 
Band saw with homemade sled (assuming you mean cut to length) not very worried about square at this point. I use a mill the square them off. I then take the center guide for the mill and insert it in a 3/4" hole saw and use my drill press to make the squares into "sorta rounds".

Table saw with a fence (assuming you mean ripping)
 
vthowe said:
...sorry, I got some feedback my other post was confusing, so I'm taking another crack at it.

What method and/or tool do you use to cut your blanks with when you're cutting them the length ways to keep the cut straight? Are you free handing it on a band saw, using a fence on a band saw or?

I tried to cut mine on a TS w/ a sliding jig but can't get them even. Then tried to sand them down to a consistent level that didn't work either...:mad::frown:

Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you're using a sliding jig (which would provide consistency) and your blanks aren't cutting square, then either you saw blade or the jig itself isn't square. Here's some things to check:

Use a combination square or other good quality square and check things out: First check that your saw blade is perfectly square with the tables face and the miter gauge slot. Whether bandsaw, tablesaw, mitersaw or whatever, there should be an adjustment for this if its off at all.

Next, if you're using a sliding jig on a tablesaw, check that the guide on your jig is square to the side of the tablesaw blade. On a mitersaw, verify the blade is square with the backing plate. And with a bandsaw, ensure the jig or miter gauge is square with the miter gauge slot in the table it travels on.

If your using the fence as your guide on either a tablesaw or bandsaw, ensure it's square with the blade and miter gauge slot.

Hope these help!
 
Only a few people can cut straight consistently withOUT a fence, jig or sled. That will be people who do this daily for a living and have steady hands and good hand/eye coordination.

I use a BS for some, TS for some and I have a smaller home made sliding table TS with jigs when I want precise blanks.
 
Curious why you need an accurate square blank? What method do you use to drill? I bandsaw green wood, dry the blank, then rip on the table saw. If you want really true blanks, use a spur drive and live center to rough turn round. Then you can use any kind of collet chuck, pin vise, etc to drill.
 
low_48 said:
Curious why you need an accurate square blank? What method do you use to drill? I bandsaw green wood, dry the blank, then rip on the table saw. If you want really true blanks, use a spur drive and live center to rough turn round. Then you can use any kind of collet chuck, pin vise, etc to drill.
Click to expand...

Square blanks are necessary with different kinds of segmenting, specifically perfect celtic knots, and some stripe or inlay type of blanks. Otherwise, the knots, stripes or inlays will be off center no matter how accurate it is drilled.
 
Bandsaw with a sled. I have a sled that I can run both directions. One way squares the blank to just proud of 3/4", the other way lets me cut to length.
 
I use a band saw and miter gauge. Two things that have not been mentioned: make sure the blade is sharp and that any insert the blade passes through is flush to the table so the blank does not tilt as it is being cut.
 
Sylvanite said:
I rip mine on a tablesaw against a fence. I use two push sticks - one holding the blank against the fence and the other pushing the blank through the saw. I can usually get pretty close to center, but if not then I just make sure the thinner side is against the fence and I run the thicker piece back through. That way, at least they're even.

Regards,
Eric
Click to expand...

Same method as mine Table Saw and Sliding Compound Miter are the only power saws I have. Stand to one side in case there is a kick back and the blank between the fence and blade is turned into a projectile. Seriously considering one of these as it is way cheaper than a bandsaw.
 
My second shot at this and I am so sorry I didn't mention it earlier. The thing no one has mentioned and it is critical is make sure that the table and blade are square to each other whether band or table saw. If the blade is off kilter, you will never be able to rip your blank down the center and square.
Charles
 
Table saw and fence, but with a 7 1/4 inch 60 tooth Freud Diablo ultrafinish blade. Blade is extremely thin which I find is more exacting (not less dangerous though) than the Woodworker II blades and very quiet too. Just bought a second one of these blades on sale...at $19 on A. Had planned on another WWII but these on sale again.
 
Usually bandsaw with fence, sled, or freehand depending on the wood.

When I need a perfectly square blank for segmenting or Knots, I finish on my TS
 
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