What is needed to sharpen my HF tools?

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GrantH

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Hattiesburg, MS
I'm trying to piece the last bit of things I need to get started and stay moving as I learn to turn. My lathe isn't able to be used until Christmas, but there are a few things I need to get...one being a sharpening system.

I've got my eye on the wolverine system, but I don't know if I need the T attachment. I will obviously have skews, gogues, as well as as round nose scraper and a parting tool.

With these tools, is the extra attachment needed?
 
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GrantH said:
I'm trying to piece the last bit of things I need to get started and stay moving as I learn to turn. My lathe isn't able to be used until Christmas, but there are a few things I need to get...one being a sharpening system.

I've got my eye on the wolverine system, but I don't know if I need the T attachment. I will obviously have skews, gogues, as well as as round nose scraper and a parting tool.

With these tools, is the extra attachment needed?
Click to expand...

I sharpen on the grinder without jigs... :shrug:

A slipstone for honing between sharpenings. Seems to me that having to set up the angles for each individual tool would suck up more time than is gained from less tool consumption.

The only exception for me would be some of the complex grinds on bowl gouges.
 
If you are asking about the T attachment for skews, the answer is 'no'. There are other ways to sharpen a skew. I either hone it with a diamond file or if it needs more work than that I use the flat platform that comes with the Wolverine setup. You are better off spending the money making sure you have good wheels on your grinder. BTW 8" slow speed grinder is preferred but not required.
 
I have the wolverine system. I generally leave it set for my roughing gouge since I take off 90% of the material with it, then go to my pen pro. But Ducoshark is right. It is kind of a pain to change from one tool to the next. So I usually sharpen all my tools then set it up for my roughing gouge when I'm finished.

I have one of those special jigs for those complex grinds. I've used it once. But I'm pretty new to turning, so that may change as I get more adventurous. I don't use the T attachment. I use the flat platform & a diamond hone. But I need more practice on using a skew, and sharpening one.

What would be nice is to have multiple post that slide on with an adjustable stop. That way you could one setup for each of the tools you use a lot, and another just for the tools you use occasionally. I think Capt Eddie has something like that. That may be next year's father's day gift.:wink:
 
I used to use my belt sander until it caught fire (I think I found the problem and with a little time I can fix it. Right now I use a granite flat stone and wet dry sand paper. Takes longer but is cheaper than buying a 12 inch grinding stone
 
BSea said:
I have the wolverine system. I generally leave it set for my roughing gouge since I take off 90% of the material with it, then go to my pen pro. But Ducoshark is right. It is kind of a pain to change from one tool to the next. So I usually sharpen all my tools then set it up for my roughing gouge when I'm finished.

I have one of those special jigs for those complex grinds. I've used it once. But I'm pretty new to turning, so that may change as I get more adventurous. I don't use the T attachment. I use the flat platform & a diamond hone. But I need more practice on using a skew, and sharpening one.

What would be nice is to have multiple post that slide on with an adjustable stop. That way you could one setup for each of the tools you use a lot, and another just for the tools you use occasionally. I think Capt Eddie has something like that. That may be next year's father's day gift.:wink:
Click to expand...

There are a few different ways to get your jig reset easily each time you need to sharpen a different tool. I use masking tape on the arms to mark the spot for different tools. I do the same on the Varigrind jig for my fingernail, bowl gouge. You can also buy what i believe is called the Raptor from CSUSA for the same purpose. Use a sharpie to blacked the bevel and LIGHTLY touch the tool to the wheel to see if hits on the right spot.

If you take the time to set up some kind of system for this you will find changing from one tool to another is quick and easy. Also, before changing the setting be sure to sharpen the tool(s) it is already set for.
 
JimB said:
BSea said:
I have the wolverine system. I generally leave it set for my roughing gouge since I take off 90% of the material with it, then go to my pen pro. But Ducoshark is right. It is kind of a pain to change from one tool to the next. So I usually sharpen all my tools then set it up for my roughing gouge when I'm finished.

I have one of those special jigs for those complex grinds. I've used it once. But I'm pretty new to turning, so that may change as I get more adventurous. I don't use the T attachment. I use the flat platform & a diamond hone. But I need more practice on using a skew, and sharpening one.

What would be nice is to have multiple post that slide on with an adjustable stop. That way you could one setup for each of the tools you use a lot, and another just for the tools you use occasionally. I think Capt Eddie has something like that. That may be next year's father's day gift.:wink:
Click to expand...

There are a few different ways to get your jig reset easily each time you need to sharpen a different tool. I use masking tape on the arms to mark the spot for different tools. I do the same on the Varigrind jig for my fingernail, bowl gouge. You can also buy what i believe is called the Raptor from CSUSA for the same purpose. Use a sharpie to blacked the bevel and LIGHTLY touch the tool to the wheel to see if hits on the right spot.

If you take the time to set up some kind of system for this you will find changing from one tool to another is quick and easy. Also, before changing the setting be sure to sharpen the tool(s) it is already set for.
Click to expand...
I do have a sharpie mark for each tool, but it still needs a little fine tuning to get it exact. I think the Accuset Devices from Captain Eddie would eliminate the need for fine tuning for each tool. But you'd still need extra posts. So the cost may be more than many would be willing to spend.

I use the sharpie on the bevel method whenever I change the position on my system. But that's part of the fine tuning. No it doesn't take long. But if you are doing several tools, it adds up.

I've also heard (or maybe have seen on YouTube) where people use one of those tape measures that are glued down. Then each tool has the measurement marked on a piece of masking tape. Again it requires the fine tuning to get it perfect.
 
Sharpening is one of those things each of us has to come to terms with one way or another.

I prefer Oil stones (because it's what I have, so no upfront cost for me). When using materials that really kill an edge, I will use my strip sander for a quick edging because I know the edge is just gonna get destroyed shortly anyways and I'd rather spend more time turning than sharpening.

Some people prefer various grinder methods, these will wear the tools faster than diamond hones, oil stones and water stones. High upfront cost, low consumable cost.

Some people prefer stones, This can have a very high upfront cost if you don't already have stones, but almost no consumable cost, and stones can last for decades f properly cared for. Some of my stones are more than 50 years old and belonged to my grandfather.

Some people prefer scary sharp (flat substrate of glass or granite with various grits of sandpaper.) Moderate up front cost but larger consumable cost.

Some people prefer to replace a carbide cutter. Minimal upfront cost, higher consumable cost.

Which option you choose depends on how much up front and consumable cost you're willing to bear, how much you are willing to spend in consumables, and how much time you're willing to spend in the sharpening task.

Here is the important part, using sharp tools is much more enjoyable. Most importantly, regardless of which method you choose, stick with it and master it, dull tools are dangerous to you, your equipment, and your final product and ultimately will cost you more than all of the sharpening stuff you purchase.

Keep the tools sharp and stay safe.

-Terry
 
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I sharpen my tools freehand on a slow wheel, but I use my Wolverine for my fingernail grinds on spindle and bowl gouges. The best thing about the Wolverine is how LITTLE metal it removes with each use. My gouges last three times longer than they did when I free-handed them.

Hope this helps,
Robert
 
Grant-

I read all the other posts and respect the opinions stated in each.

For me, when I got the Wolverine, I went from often being frustrated to enjoying almost every minute I was turning.

Another poster pointed out that sharp tools are essential. Amen. Dull tools mean tear out, blow outs, more sanding, open grain, etc. etc. Frustration and no fun. And if you don't have a system like the Wolverine, you better be spot on with hand sharpening, or you will only make dull tools duller. Still greater frustration.

Just one man's opinion, but if the budget permits buying a system like the Wolverine, and a slow speed grinder, DO IT. It will improve your turning, and your enjoyment, enormously.

Roger
 
I think I am going to get the Blackhawk System. I just need to find a way to sharpen my flat tools now. Anyone want to touch on that? I don't want to use the diamond file as they look like they run 50+ no matter what. I'm at the point now where I have run myself a little dry money wise until a few weeks pass. Would the sandpaper and mirror trick work fine?
 
RogerH said:
Grant-

I read all the other posts and respect the opinions stated in each.

For me, when I got the Wolverine, I went from often being frustrated to enjoying almost every minute I was turning.

Another poster pointed out that sharp tools are essential. Amen. Dull tools mean tear out, blow outs, more sanding, open grain, etc. etc. Frustration and no fun. And if you don't have a system like the Wolverine, you better be spot on with hand sharpening, or you will only make dull tools duller. Still greater frustration.

Just one man's opinion, but if the budget permits buying a system like the Wolverine, and a slow speed grinder, DO IT. It will improve your turning, and your enjoyment, enormously.

Roger
Click to expand...


Thanks Roger, I think i'll go with the BlackHawk as to help another turner!
 
Sand paper and mirror work great. Use a sharpie or other marker to make sure you got the angle right. I am on an ever shrinking budget too so make do with what I got. Necessity breeds patience when it comes to sharpening. For me it has become an almost Zen like practice. Strangely calming.

I would love a slow grinder but I don't have one. I have a HUGE industrial thing that I am afraid will burn up the steel and it costs way too much to get the right grinding wheel for it. If I get the money for something like that I will buy it but as for now I do what I gotta do.
 
Find a piece of glass or granite tile and adhere some sand paper to it.
Google Scary Sharp for specific details and tutorials. This is a good inexpensive way to get sharp edges on straight edge tools.

My system employed 2 12" x 12" granite tiles, some sandpaper of varying grits and some spray adhesive. Use progressive grits lower grits will remove more steel but will dull faster.

220, 400, 600 for turning tools. I add 800, 1000, and 1500 for planes and bench chisels. I also use a honing guide to hold the plane irons and bench chisels consistently. Not practical for the skews as they have the angle and my particular honing guide does not hold angled edged tools. Consistency and patience are key here until you get a feel for hold individual chisels.

I find that the edges on lathe chisels tend to wear quickly so trying to keep them as sharp as my planes just isn't practical.

-Terry
 
The only way you'll find out if they work is to spend your money. I guarantee you will spend a lot of money trying to find something to suit you. You are about to find out about the "vortex"! The Wolverine system is still the best system and Oneway has many years of experience to back it up. Good Luck!:wink:
 
Haynie said:
...I use a granite flat stone and wet dry sand paper. Takes longer but is cheaper than buying a 12 inch grinding stone
Click to expand...
This is what I have been using. It works great on the skew (which has been my tool of choice because of the lack of grinder/mechanical sharpener). Gouges can be done this way, too, but it is slow.

FWIW, I am getting a Worksharp for x-mas.
 
I use a set of diamond sharpening sticks. However, when I looked at the price of a sharpening system, it made me buy a replaceable carbide tip pen pro all the more attractive because it's half the price.
 
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