What do I do with this this blank?

[Bowhnter]

I am making a few Big Ben click pens. This Burmese Rosewood looks good, but, as with some previous blanks I have turned or finished regardless of style, have what looks like small cracks in the finish but is part of the wood.

So, the question is, am I supposed to seal these, and would that clear sealer even conceal the marks?
Or do I toss the blank and start over, or is it still sellable as is? Do people understand it is a characteristic of the wood or would they not like it? My wife didn't even notice, and when I pointed it out said it wouldn't bother her.

It's a blo ca finish btw.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[GaryMGg]

If you provide specific facts about the state of the blank when you start, how you're turning and/or sanding, and then how you're applying the finish--maybe.

It's an oily, open grain wood:
Burmese Rosewood
Thus, the blank has to be dry and you can't heat it while turning or sanding and then before applying any finish, you should wipe it clean with acetone.

I use dewaxed shellac to seal blanks like this to coat the oils, seal and fill the pores, and provide an undercoat before using CA--lots of thin coats of CA.

 

[JohnU]

What I would do is fine steel wool this blank and wipe down with acetone, then start with a few coats of thin ca with a piece is paper towel, then follow with few coats of medium ca and micro mesh to a finished smooth surface when dry. Some say it takes away from the real feel of wood, but it will be smooth fill those cracks. You will get mixed opinions on ca finishes on wood.

 

[Bowhnter]

Well. There might be my problem.

I turn with a fingernail gouge, and sand with 220 if needed and up to 600.

I did not use acetone first, and used blo , then ca rubbed back and forth til dry several times. Same happened with cocobolo if I use the blo/ca technique. However it also happens on cocobolo when just using a danish oil without heating the wood...(but I didn't use acetone first)

So is acetone the key on these type woods?

I should add, I am not good with CA, and personally don't like the finish. I prefer danish oil but that's me. I know the buyer would want a shinier finish then the DO end result would be.

BLO/CA works ok for me, so I guess I should use the acetone first if that might be the key. Although, then I am heating the wood.

Finishing is my nemesis, but the most important part.

 

[JohnU]

Acetone is what works for me. It will remove the natural wood oils from the surface and allow your finish to adhere to the wood. I used to get dull spots in my finish where it would not stick before using acetone. If it's too shiny, you can always dull it down with very fine steel wool or a piece of paper bag.

 

[manojd]

I would not use BLO first on rosewood as the wood itself has oil in it. You can start with thin CA and about 4 coats should be enough to get a good gloss.