WATER PIPE.

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PaulDoug

PaulDoug

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Joined
Mar 2, 2008
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Benton City, WA.
I am playing with the municipable water pipe I recently got from Bruce119. I am having an awful time getting a good finish on it. I'm using mm 1800 through 12000, plastic polish, brasso, rubbing compound and polishing compound and I still end up with fine scratches. Is there a secret to getting a great finish on it that I am missing? You don't do a CA finish on it do you? I love this stuff and have many requests for it. Would like to get it right.

Thanks
 
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You need to make sure that you removed the scratches fro the previous sandpaper with each successive grade of paper. in other words you need to make sure that all scratch marks from the 1500 MM have been removed with the 2400 MM etc. any marks left behind will show in your final finish.
 
Wet sanding would be better but mostly for the sake of the MM. I sand at top speed but many suggest a slower speed. this has more to do with heat generated than anything though. stop the lathe between each grade of MM and sand lengthwise to the blank. this will do more to eliminate scratch marks than anything.
 
Well think I got it. I just spent more time on each grit. But the biggest help seemed to be when I used the plastic polish I sped up the lathe as fast as it would go. Really shined things up.

Thanks for the help, Daniel
 

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PaulDoug said:
I am playing with the municipable water pipe I recently got from Bruce119. I am having an awful time getting a good finish on it. I'm using mm 1800 through 12000, plastic polish, brasso, rubbing compound and polishing compound and I still end up with fine scratches. Is there a secret to getting a great finish on it that I am missing? You don't do a CA finish on it do you? I love this stuff and have many requests for it. Would like to get it right.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi Paul

This is how I do it. First when turning keep it as clean as possible smooth you should be able to get as smooth with a skew or scraper to the point you almost don't need a finish. Then I start WET sanding. I start with 400 easy now you shouldn't have any nicks, gouges or deep scratches to start. Then I start with the micro mesh wet sanding all the way from 1500 to I only go to 6000 you can go all the way but I don't think it really matters. Then I use a plastic polish "Novus 2" I get mine at the Harley Davidson motor cycle shop. That's it I now finish off with Novus 1 that is just a cleaner & anti static. It help keeps things from sticking to it. I found that most plastics build static and it is a pain in the but keeping them clean Novus 1 does the trick.

Oh BTW as far as speed goes slow on the sanding heat is your enemy. Fast on the polishing with moderate pressure again not to long keep the rag moving don't let heat build.

I hope this helps if you have any more problems or questions you can always contact me. These do polish up like glass but you got to take your time and get it rite.

Pen looks great & good luck
Thanks
Bruce
 
DurocShark said:
Pink! I want!

Anyway, I found the blue water pipe to be quite a bit softer than the typical acrylic blank. It also burns easily. So slow speeds, lots of water, and finish with Meguiar's PlastX plastic polish.

http://donimages.com/wood/images/BlueChromeSlim1.jpg
Click to expand...

Pink it's actually purple but on the pink side. I have it here http://www.penturners.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37746

See my post post above about finishing works great. You should always keep your heat down with anything and I always wet sand.

Bruce
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