Washing machine repair?

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juteck

juteck

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I posted this on an appliance repair forum, but thought I'd tap into the knowledge base here as well.

I have a Whirlpool washer model LSR7233BW1 that is more than 15 yrs old.

On regular cycle, the washer will go through all cycles except the final spin. Spin works fine on Perm. Press and Delicate cycles.​

If I rock the timer knob downwards to the right (see attached photo), the spin cycle works, but I have to hold it in that downward twisted/rocked position to keep the spin cycle running. ​

I replaced the timer, and have exactly the same problem with the new timer.​

Wiring - the ground from the cabinet to the control panel tests ok for continuity, the ground from the cabinet to the timer mounting screws test ok for continuity, and the ground from the cabinet to the back of the timer switch tests ok for continuity. I don't see any damaged or exposed wires, and can't find a short in the grounding.​

I've wiggled the wiring harness, and it doesn't seem to make a difference. It does the same thing whether the control cover is open or closed, or closed and screwed down.​

Looking for suggestions on what to check next.​
 

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Normally that problem would be solved by changing the timer. I would check to see if all of the connections in the plug going into the timer are tight. When you twist the knob you may be moving the whole timer. When you rotate the knob and it clicks one of the tabs that the plug plugs into should change from having continuity or not. I'm not completely sure how to do this test as I personally have never had to do it. My first thought is to wonder if you got a faulty timer. Whirlpool has not changed their basic design in many, many years and I personally think that they are the best and easiest machine to fix. Hope this helps. To test the timer I would guess you would check where the main power comes into the timer and the individual timers and check for continuity.
 
Timer Control ! ! !

Save yourself some headache . . . change out timer control unit . . .

You can spend hours rotating the timer and checking for continuity . . .

It's pretty basic . . . if you can make it operate by forcing the knob out of it's normal rotation, it's is your timer control unit . .

You can easily determine which position is causing the problem and maybe even bend a contact to make it work temporarily . .

But I can assure you, replacement is in your future . . .

You can replace the timer control unit now and feel like you have confidence in the unit or you can do a temp repair that will eventually frustrate the wife and cause you to end up at the appliance store for a new washer & dryer (so they will match).

Pay someone to haul it off, they will replace the timer and sell it to some else that does not "need" matching washer and dryer & get another 10 years use out of it.

Mean time you will be watching the appliance man come to your house and fix your new Chinese made washer every 30 days or so.

Then you will of course buy the extended warranty for a 1/3 of the cost of the set because you know your new piece of junk WILL break . . .

So is a $65.00 timer control unit still such a bad idea . . ?

New washer and dryer that women want now days use very little water (whoopi - they are green) . . . I live in Louisiana, I could not care less about saving water . . . oh yeah, the $1,800.00 to $2,400.00 for a new set is just great . . .

Steve

P.S. Tell the wife that she should ONLY turn the new timer CLOCKWISE, never go back . . . the OEM parts will not take the abuse of misuse . . .
 
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I changed the timer already (which is an easy fix), and still have an identical problem where it will go through all cycles except the final spin on regular. I find it hard to believe it's coincidence I got a bad timer that operates with the exact same problem, which makes me think it's a wiring issue in the harness or grounding. It only seems to be a problem on the regular cycle, nothing else, so I guess I need to find the right wire off the timer for the regular cycle. Perm. press and delicate work, but the spin cycle is less powerful on both of those cycles, and don't spin the clothes as well as the regular cycle.
 
The regular cycle spin is on the full motor speed. If your wires are plugged on individually, look for that sta-con to be deformed and slightly loose. If thay all plug on at the same time there will be one that has possibly heated and opened up slightly. Take the harness off the timer and look for discoloration on the face of the plug. The high speed motor winding pulls more amps than the lower speeds do. Do you still have the old timer? If so look at teh pins coming out and look for one that seems to have been heated. That will help locate the defective sta-con. Mu $0.02.
Charles
 
Ours was doing this all the time,except it didn't matter which cycle it was in,and it was the safety switch for the door.That might be something to check.Evidently on ours the door can be left open for all the cycles except spin.

Steve
 
Dagumit. Just 2 days ago I ordered a thermister for my Lg washer. SUre wish I had seen this before. 30 bucks and 1 week shipping from sears. I could have gotten it here for 7ish and next day shipping.
 
loose

juteck said:
I posted this on an appliance repair forum, but thought I'd tap into the knowledge base here as well.

I have a Whirlpool washer model LSR7233BW1 that is more than 15 yrs old.

On regular cycle, the washer will go through all cycles except the final spin. Spin works fine on Perm. Press and Delicate cycles.​

If I rock the timer knob downwards to the right (see attached photo), the spin cycle works, but I have to hold it in that downward twisted/rocked position to keep the spin cycle running. ​

I replaced the timer, and have exactly the same problem with the new timer.​

Wiring - the ground from the cabinet to the control panel tests ok for continuity, the ground from the cabinet to the timer mounting screws test ok for continuity, and the ground from the cabinet to the back of the timer switch tests ok for continuity. I don't see any damaged or exposed wires, and can't find a short in the grounding.​

I've wiggled the wiring harness, and it doesn't seem to make a difference. It does the same thing whether the control cover is open or closed, or closed and screwed down.​


Looking for suggestions on what to check next.​
Click to expand...

Somewhere you have a loose connection or a broken wire that makes contact only when you force the switch into a particular position. My frist guess would be on or around the switch. When you put the knob into the spin position....it does not spin when you wiggle the knob into the right position it does. That says that whatever sould be completing a circuit isn't doing it until you play with the knob...look at what moves when you move the knob to make it work.
 
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