Want to make a thin fountian pen

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chartle

chartle

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I know they can only be so thin due to the nib but thinking this one is about as thin as you can go.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/3/719/Artisan-Signature-Fountain-Pen-Kit

One issue that I don't have a problem with is that you have to notch the cap for the clip. Some one rated this a 1 because of it. I don't know wouldn't that little notch make it appear that it had more workmanship.
 
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These are 10mm kits - I've never seen FPs that use smaller tubes. I've made a couple of these that are part of my 'daily use rotation'.

They are OK - not the best pens out there, but they write smoothly. I've occasionally had a problem with them 'airlocking' - a condition in which the ink stops flowing because it is trapped in the wrong end of a converter (the converters supplied with these kits don't have a ball or spring inside the converter to break the surface tension of the ink and help it flow toward the section when the pen is in the writing position).

I opted to make a closed-end version of these using a length of 1/4" allthread as a mandrel. I threaded a bit of plastic to fit on the end of the allthread and then turned the inside to fit into the 10mm hole in the blank to support the closed end for turning. Had to use the tailstock during most of the turning, but then turned away the end of the blank before sanding and finishing.

My major complaint is that these pens use the 'snap cap' design in which a hard plastic insert inside the cap grips the end of the section to hold the cap on the body. I find that design to be seriously flawed - the recommended technique of using a No 2 Phillips screwdriver to seat the plastic insert onto the threaded stud inside the cap finial doesn't work (a No. 2 Torx screwdriver works marginally better). Instead, I use a metric tap to thread the inside of the insert, and then apply a drop of thick CA to glue it to the stud after adjusting it to the right position. Unfortunately, I have also had inserts break (always during assembly - so far, not during use) - CSUSA did provide a few spare inserts after I complained about the problem.

The other issue with snap cap FPs is that the section dries out faster than screw-cap FPs.

The only available plating is 10K gold - seems to hold up better than 24K, but not as well as gold TN.
 
I've been finding that I need to stay away from the larger sized fountain pens ... I just don't have the equipment to make them without taking chances. Once I get a half inch #1MT drill chuck for my lathe, I should be able to drill them OK, but for now I'm limited to 10mm.

In this range, I've found that PSI offers 3 kits that I can make.

Traditional (10mm tubes) ... these come with metal plated finial post and cap, only 24kt gold finish. These appear to be the "snap cap" design. Prices are reasonable to work with, at around 9 dollars a kit when not on sale (currently $7.85). The gold colored nib looks nice, too, but there appears to be a largish piece of plastic between nib and body.

Classic (10mm tubes) ... these come with a plastic finial and end cap, but the cap is posted with a screw attachment. Prices here are a bit higher, at around 11 dollars fr 24kt gold and the gold and enamel style. Chrome comes in at 10 dollars. This style also appears to have a large plastic part between nib and body.

Classic Elite 2 (10mm tubes) ... These come with a design that appears to be more of a metal based construction, with metal in the finial, cap, and nib area, though there are small sections of plastic here and there. Most notably, plastic threads. These are a bit pricier at 13 - 14 dollars for a 24kt gold and a 24kt gold + gunmetal design.


I think I'm gonna go with the Classic Elite 2 and see how well they turn out. Good luck to you guys! :)
 
I suggest you check Bear Tooth Woods and search for fountain pens. I got 2 pages of results. I've made several of these. I think you might like the Sedona, Baron, or Virage the best. They are all thinner than a Churchill or El Grande.

Kits are $11.50-$16.50, but they give a quantity discount and allow you to mix and match kits for the discount. Worth looking into.

Steve
 
Ok I now realize that I had looked at those PSI kits when I first started with this obsession in the spring. I was looking to make a Carbon Fiber fountain pen for my son who was graduating with a Materials Engineering degree. I looked at all the 10mm kits because that was one of the sizes of CF blanks I could get. Didn't make it because also wanted to do a matching pencil and it was hard enough finding a matching pencil for a fountain pen without having to match a blank tube.

I've done a little casting and have some carbon fiber ordered so wanted to give it a try.

His EDC is a fountain pen and he doesn't want to use the one I made him, its too fancy, so I thought a carbon fiber one would fit the bill.

One other thing, my son prefers plastic sections, the part between the nib and the body that you hold while writing. He is a Fountain Pen "Snob" so to speak and he knows of many others that also prefer them so don't discount "cheap plastic" parts. :)
 
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Not discounting them entirely, but a lot of people prefer to have metal parts, as they last longer against wear and tear. When you pick up a fountain pen and it's heavy because it's all metal parts, it speaks of "quality" to them, as long as the fit and finish are good. But when they pick up a light fountain pen they think it's more fragile, more easy to break. It screams "cheap! break me just by looking too hard!" and they shy away.

I'ld rather get a few plastic parts here and there and not have to pay a 30-dollar premium price tag per pen.

Plus, you have to take into account the fact that if the threads are plastic, how long could they last? 2 to 5 years, perhaps? Metal threads will take much more abuse before failing.

Of the three pens I listed, only the last one, the Classic Elite 2, has plastic threads. I still plan to use that one for at least a while as my fountain pen offering, before I upgrade to a 1/2 inch drill chuck for my lathe. If it doesn't work out for me, I'll drop down to the Classic and possibly port the Elite 2 finial cap over, or make it without a plastic finial and just have a closed turning on that end.
 
Skie_M said:
Not discounting them entirely, but a lot of people prefer to have metal parts, as they last longer against wear and tear. When you pick up a fountain pen and it's heavy because it's all metal parts, it speaks of "quality" to them, as long as the fit and finish are good. But when they pick up a light fountain pen they think it's more fragile, more easy to break. It screams "cheap! break me just by looking too hard!" and they shy away.
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I shouldn't respond to this, but really ... this is astonishing. For over 100 years, fountain pens have been made using all kinds of "plastic" (most notably ebonite). Check out the Montblanc 149 -- retails in the $500 to $900 range. Or Parker Duofold. Or Waterman.

Sure, many companies also make metal fountain pens, but "light" does not mean "cheap" -- and most people who choose to buy a fountain pen don't intend to use it to poke holes in sheetrock.
 
Weeeell .... people round here been telling me 40 bucks for a very very nice looking Breast Cancer Awareness pen is way too high, and tell me to try selling it around 20 - 25 ....

I know they cost me 19 dollars in materials alone, and take me about an hour and a half to turn. You guys been telling me they're worth 60 - 80 dollars...

It's like this all across the board. My pen sales are fairly few and far between. One of my major complaints was (when they see my fountain pen and compare it to my Deer Hunter pens) "Gee, that's kinda light ... feels flimsy and it looks cheaply made." (referring to the plastic post for the cap and threads). *picks up the Deer Hunter pen* "Now this here's a nice pen, you can feel the weight in your hand and there ain't no plastic junk in it!"

And the kicker .... both pens used Deer Antler for the barrels. The Olympian Elite 2 fountain pen has 2 of them, the Deer Hunter bolt action pen has one, all finished exactly the same way.

Around these parts, a lot of people think this way, and it's kinda hurting my sales, so I'll have to lean towards the heavier pens. On the other hand, once they've got the heavy one in hand for a while and it tires their wrists out, perhaps they'll come back and look for a lighter pen. :)
 
For a thin fountain pen with a threaded cap for closing and posting, I use the New Series Style Screw Cap fountain pen, made by Berea and available at Exotic Blanks and others, priced in the *$8-$9 range. It takes a 3/8" tube which is about 9.5 mm. However, the grip area is metal and the threads are metal on metal. I prefer plastic on the female threads. I prefer plastic on the grip as well, but that is rare.
 
chartle said:
I know they can only be so thin due to the nib but thinking this one is about as thin as you can go.

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/3/719/Artisan-Signature-Fountain-Pen-Kit

One issue that I don't have a problem with is that you have to notch the cap for the clip. Some one rated this a 1 because of it. I don't know wouldn't that little notch make it appear that it had more workmanship.
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I use this kit all the time and I don't like it. I buy the Americana 10k https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/2/641/Artisan-Americana-Rollerball-Pen-Kit
and the signature and inter change the sections. My big seller is the Americana, the gold on the signature gets dull and ugly before you even sell it. Know if you call them they will sell you a FP section for about $6 if it's available.
This pen is also Available in Rhodium as a roller ball I buy a Platinum section from Ed at Exotic blanks and they work just fine, please note that the Gold sections From ED (Berea) won't work on the Americana 10k because the the Snap ring is a hair bigger.
What I do with the Signature is I make a Center band with Brass Washers and wood or acrylic and change the appearance in order to make it more attractive

Hope this helps
 
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