using spalted material

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.

hughbie

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2006
Messages
749
Location
Springfield, Missouri, USA.
hello all again.....
when i have questions.........i have several....
this one is for using spalted woods. is it necessary to have them stabilized before using. i just recieved my first spalted woods and i am unsure about using it. it looks great but feels very light.

will the spalt cause breaks along the line if not stabilized?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Depending on what it is you don't need to stabilize but you do need to use sharp tools as some spalted woods such as signature wood will tear if the tools are too dull or you get a little aggressive.

Mike
 
You can use thin CA during turning. Just have to apply and let it soak in. If the blanks are like they will come apart at even the start it might be tuff, but if you can get them turned a bit then apply some CA, turn some more. If I can, I turn down to about 1/16" over size then apply and let it soak in, then turn and finish, adding again if needed.
 
Hugh,I kinda play it by ear(or feel) with spalted wood if it is kinda solid,not real punky then do what Paul said,a lot depends on the wood also,if it has worm trails in it then for sure use ca on them.I think spalted wood makes a great looking pen,what kind of wood do you have?maybe a pic.?
 
As mentioned, it depends on the stage of spalting it is on. Later stage is rot and if it is reached the wood will be too punky without stabilization.

I use plexi-acetone to stabilize really soft wood. This makes the wood stable enough to drill without chipping/blowing up. After drilling, I apply thin CA inside the hole then re-drill. I apply thin CA again before the final cuts and usually finish with CA.
 
You have already received a lot of good advice. I just turned some spalted maple and poplar wood that was fairly solid. I use a honed skew on it and it turns great. If soft I will CA it. As was said sharp tools is the key.
 
thanks guys. i've already ran into the problem of using ca as a finish and having the bushings stick to the blanks. frustrating at best. but thanks for the heads up. makes me wanna go get wax paper right now........
i have spalted maple as well. haven't turned it yet. but have some ideas
 
Minwax makes a product that is used to repair rotten areas of wood. I turn a lot of spalted Maple bowls and a good bit of Ambrosia Maple. I stopped having many problems with 'soft' areas when I soaked the blanks over night in a sealed bottle with the blanks completely submerged in the Minwax wood hardener.

This stuff is pricey, but it does help a great deal. It is available in the paint departments of Home Depot, Lowe's, and the local hardware stores. [:D]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom