Uses for an extra mandrel

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BobRad

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A few weeks ago when I got back to making pens, I bought a new mandrel since my old one had been under a leak and looked badly rusted. But I managed to clean off the Morse taper with fine steel wool and its fine, so I never opened the 2nd one and was planning on returning it.

Today I was doing my first full CA finish, and the instructions I'm using said to let it dry for 2 hours before the final coats. I was thinking of working on another pen, and could it would be handy in this case, to leave the pen in place while it dried, and switch to the spare mandrel. In the end I didn't - so I might still return it. The other option is to use the credit towards buying a different style mandrel

Are there any other reasons to have two mandrels?
 
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He who dies with the most mandrels (tools) wins ???


All kidding aside , there's always a use for a second mandrel . It can be used as you said for turning with one while a finish dries on the other , mandrels do get bent so it's always good to have a second so you don't have to wait for another to be shipped , if it's adjustable it can be used as a dedicated closed end mandrel .... many other uses .
 
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Hold onto it. Like mentioned, mandrels can bend and then you'd have to wait for
another one. Or if you had to go buy another one you'd waste as much in time
and gas as you'd get back for returning this one.

I have a thick shelf (6/4 oak) over the lathe. I've drilled lots of holes in it so I can
stick in mandrel shafts, paint brushes, bolts, short pieces of brake line .. screws etc.
so I can hang things. I can spray on a coat of lacquer, put the whole mandrel up on
the shelf to dry while doing other things.. it's good to have extras, especially when
they're not that expensive.
 
I have 2 "adjustable" mandrels. I use one for my slims and the other for my Sierras. Using 'spacers' is OK but you can have a little 'bend' by spacing a longer mandrel rather than adjusting the mandrel to the shorter pens. By having 2 mandrels I don't have to constantly adjust.

Dan
 
Yes, I think I need to get an adjustable also - I made my first Sierra today - best pen I've made so far - the finish came out real nice - this is the first one I think is good enough to sell
 
Yeah maybe - since everything else I see seems to race through the CA

Gluing my finger to the paper towel also slowed things - I never knew CA can actually burn like a soldering iron
 
As others have said, its always nice to have a spare. I have 2 7mm mandrels and recently got an adjustable as well. Also have an extra big shaft for doing an el grande. You can never have enough toys, ah tools:wink:.

Carl
 
BobRad said:
Yeah maybe - since everything else I see seems to race through the CA

Gluing my finger to the paper towel also slowed things - I never knew CA can actually burn like a soldering iron
Click to expand...

I'm sure the 2 hours includes things like gluing fingers to the paper towels,
peeling CA from the skin, prying fingers from the CA bottle and a few
seconds of colorful language time.

as for the CA heat .. yes, it will heat up. That's the main reason I use BLO..
it forms a barrier between your fingers and the CA so they don't stick.
Hot CA is one thing. Hot CA that melts through the rubber glove that you
can't remove is another.. :eek:
 
...race through the CA. Do you mean taking only 10 minutes to apply several coats of CA, sand, and buff? I wouldn't have it any other way. There is no reason to take any longer...but others will disagree. I've read some rather outrageous CA finish routines.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

BobRad said:
Yeah maybe - since everything else I see seems to race through the CA
Click to expand...
 
get a cheap buffing kit from Harbor freight either make or use spare bushing to tighten on the mandrel and now you have dedicated buffing mandrel/lathe that you can then quickly switch back for pens
 
If the PSI instructions work for you then good. I wish you well. I like 10 minutes better. Feel free to Pm me if you want to discuss CA finishes any further.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

BobRad said:
Putting the coats in is absurdly fast

I'm using a kit from PSI - (from memory- instructions are not in front of me) it calls for applying a few coats CA, and accelerating them and leaving for 2 hours, then a few more coats, then letting that dry, then micromeshing them and then using plastic polish.

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/PKCAFINSET.html?mybuyscid=10871901329
Click to expand...
 
ldb2000 said:
He who dies with the most mandrels (tools) wins ???
Click to expand...

Ah but he still dies and somebody else gets to play with his tools.

Before I got my adjustable I cut the shaft down on one and used it for closed end pens.

For the cost of returning it I would hang on to it. As others have said you will be glad you did if you bend the one you have.
 
That will make a nice sanding mill also. Cut out of self sticking discs the size of the end of the mt2 about the size of a nickle. I cut them square then clip off the corners [doesn't have to be perfectly round]. Lay a chunk of wood on drill press & drill a 1/4 in hole close to center. Slip it over the shaft & you've got a mill.
 
As Mobilman said it makes a great sanding mill. Ad a bushing made to fit the tubes you are using and all kits will sand dead square to the tube.
Mark
 
2nd mandrel

BobRad said:
A few weeks ago when I got back to making pens, I bought a new mandrel since my old one had been under a leak and looked badly rusted. But I managed to clean off the Morse taper with fine steel wool and its fine, so I never opened the 2nd one and was planning on returning it.

Today I was doing my first full CA finish, and the instructions I'm using said to let it dry for 2 hours before the final coats. I was thinking of working on another pen, and could it would be handy in this case, to leave the pen in place while it dried, and switch to the spare mandrel. In the end I didn't - so I might still return it. The other option is to use the credit towards buying a different style mandrel

Are there any other reasons to have two mandrels?
Click to expand...

Well Mandrels will bend under pressure and since applying finish uses a lot more pressure on the Mandrel than turning or sanding, I change mandrels to apply the finish.
 
its_virgil said:
...race through the CA. Do you mean taking only 10 minutes to apply several coats of CA, sand, and buff? I wouldn't have it any other way. There is no reason to take any longer...but others will disagree. I've read some rather outrageous CA finish routines.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...


Do think it's important to let the CA cure overnight before buffing and assembly?
 
I wish I only had two. I own more lathes than that. I also agree that you keep it. All it takes is one mistake and you are shut down until you can replace a bent or damaged mandrel.
 
Rmartin said:
Do think it's important to let the CA cure overnight before buffing and assembly?
Click to expand...

Technically yes you should since the CA takes 24 hours to fully cure , but under normal circumstances , no you don't have to wait . This will depend on the age and type and thickness of the CA used as the finish . I use fresh , thin CA with no accelerator and build a minimal coat , just enough to finish the pen correctly , so I go straight to buffing as soon as I'm done . If you use old , thick CA with accelerator and build a very thick coat I would wait .
 
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I have 3 or 4 mandrels, both Berea A & B, a couple of PSI 7mm's, even an 8mm... don't use any of them any more since somebody on here talked about between centers... about only way I turn pens any more... what I do need is a shorter tool rest for the big lathe... also need a shorter tool rest post for the multi set I bought last year.
 
I think most of us can all agree, a lot of us have a problem with purchasing our toys. I work two jobs, one pays for my family and the other one for my pen hobby!!
Moke
 
OK I gave in, kept the duplicate "a" mandrel and found that although it was the same part # as the first, they improved the design and put more thread on the end. Then the next day, I find I need a "B" so now I have 3.

I have my eyes on a nice adjustable length one for next month.
 
BobRad said:
I have my eyes on a nice adjustable length one for next month.
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Now that's the way it's done....:biggrin:

I have a 7mm that I use and abuse daily. I have two extra's both adjustable, that I pull into play, when I want to run two or three of a kind. It's just easier to drill all the blanks, glue the tubes, square the ends and turn them all down one after the other. Then I go back and finish each.

Plus my wife is getting into it and she will need her own set of tools...:eek:
 
I can't imagine only having 2 mandrels. I have 4. 2 mt mandrels and 2 that screw on the headstock. Have 2 lathes also. I use mandrel savers and never bend a mandrel. Heard a lot of horror stories about the mandrel saver, like a noisy bearing. They told him to run for 20 min. or so and it would smooth out. Well being a mechanical engineer that sounded like a BS story. Well lo and behold the first on I got was a little noisy. I ran it for 20 Min's and it smoothed right out. Never heard of a noisy bearing fixing itself. LOL
 
TellicoTurning said:
what I do need is a shorter tool rest for the big lathe... also need a shorter tool rest post for the multi set I bought last year.
Click to expand...

PSI has a set of three tool rests with 5/8" posts. You can easily cut them down shorter!

I'm looking at a new lathe and will be making a sleeve to fit a 5/8" tool rest in the 1" diameter banjo.
 
I got one from Lee Valley - made by Sorby with separately purchased posts and top fittings- I have a metric post so its harder to find one that fits. Its nice, and I can get other tops for uses other than pens.

TellicoTurning said:
... what I do need is a shorter tool rest for the big lathe... also need a shorter tool rest post for the multi set I bought last year.
Click to expand...
 
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