Twist pen 7.25 inches
- Thread starter PenCasso
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Dieseldoc
Member
Easy to do. Just take a CSUSA Artisan Cigar twist pen is 5.5 OLA that has a 2 inch upper body and make upper body
4 inches, there you have it 7 1/2 monster , all you need is use longer brass tube for upper body.
4 inches, there you have it 7 1/2 monster , all you need is use longer brass tube for upper body.
Drewby108
Member
Did you ask them what they're compensating for?
egnald
Member
Even though I made it as a desk pen with pen holder, A few years ago I turned a Premium Designer NT kit into a long (8.25") pen while retaining it's twist function. The thread was titled Euro Style Desktop Twist Pen and Holder. I don't see why the same technique couldn't be applied to many of the standard twist style kits. - Dave
Thanks for sharing!
egnald
Member
Sorry I didn't re-read my post. I see that I didn't include any details, so from my notes, here is what I did:
Build the lower section per the pen kit instructions. (This essentially made the tip lower body, and transmission. The Premium Designer lower tube is 2-3/8" inches long.
Build the upper section starting out with a full 5" blank.
- Drill 2+ inches deep into the blank (long enough to accomodate the length of the upper tube.
(This was for a closed end, but if I were going to use the top cap/clip assembly, I would have either drilled all the way through or I would have drilled in a ways on the other end - long enough to accomodate a short piece of brass tube).
- Carefully Glue in the Tube trying not to get too much glue that will get into the tube from the leading end while it is being inserted.
- Turn the upper blank between centers. (I used the normal center bushing on one side and a live center on the other because I made it a closed end, but both bushings could have been used if I were going to use the standard cap/clip assembly).
- Finish the blank (including MicroMesh) before parting it off (again - if using the cap/clip end, the blank would not need to be parted off and could be finished as one would normally finish the body).
- Sand angle on top (purely decorative and based on my preference.
- Finish the sanded portion and MicroMesh.
- Buff and Assemble
I wish I would have typed it up and made an instruction sheet with pictures, but all I have is my hand written notes. Maybe someday I will build a long twist version and document the process better.
- Dave
EDIT: The more I have thought about this, the more I realized that to be successful with this process, the part that connects to the top of the transmission in the kit must be integral with the center band hardware or with the upper brass tube itself and it can not be integral to the cap/clip hardware. For example, the kit I used, a PSI Premium Designer NT works because the upper tube itself is what engages with the transmission; however, I don't think a Cigar kit would work because the piece that engages with the transmission is integral to the cap/clip hardware. So, the kit design related to the transmission is key to whether this process works or not. - Dave
Last edited: