Turnng between centers problem

[Woodchipper]

Got a live center for the tailstock a long time ago. Got a dead center for the headstock from a recommendation by a member here. So far, so good. Got a piece of wood and turned to round, mainly to experiment with finish. However, I turned two blanks for a Slimline pencil kit by TBC. I got some fine brass dust on the two centers. I tried using masking tape to act as something to keep it from turning. Not much luck. I have some other kits that I want to turn. Confident that using a bit of common sense and calipers, I can turn to round without having an out-of-round blank. Any and all help and advice are most welcome to stop the blank from turning. Oh, tried light cuts but did cut down some on brass dust.
Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

[leehljp]

Some guys (and maybe ladies) do turn totally without bushings. I start my turns WITH bushings and once I get them to size or near size, I take the bushings off and finish without bushings. As for slimlines, I do have a couple of custom made slimline bushings. This eliminates the brass dust.

For clarity of ORIGINAL TBC purpose here, that some may think differently - the original purpose of the original TBC on this forum was done because of stuck bushings, not for turning to size. Stuck bushings on oily woods would cause "lifting" of the CA on the ends for me, repeatedly. Two fellows mentioned that they heard of a method that did not use mandrels. That piqued my interest and I decided to give it a try by experimenting. Not long after a few more joined in.

In doing so, we discovered several benefits of the TBC. At the beginning, TBC was for preventing the haphazard separation of the bushings from the blank, not necessarily from not using bushings at all. Not using bushings at all - can result in what you experienced and flared brass tubings.

Hope this helps.

 

[Woodchipper]

Lee, then one could start with one diameter bushing set. Turn using calipers and then TBC to get the correct dimensions of the finished blank. Or turn, ignoring the diameter of the bushing which is, used only to hold the tubing.
Thanks!

 

[jttheclockman]

Lee, then one could start with one diameter bushing set. Turn using calipers and then TBC to get the correct dimensions of the finished blank. Or turn, ignoring the diameter of the bushing which is, used only to hold the tubing.
Thanks!

I agree with what Hank said. What I do is only finish between centers and I use delrin center for dead center. I always use the factory bushings and never found a problem with OOR but I only use them as a guide. I use calipers to bring things home. I in fact like to overcut those bushings so the do not interfere with measurements. They main purpose is to hold the tube and that is all.

 

[Woodchipper]

I think my OOR might be due to the long mandrel shaft flexing a bit. Our AAW chapter meeting is tomorrow night. I'm going to ask a veteran pen turner about adjustable mandrels I see in the Woodcraft catalogue. Or get his input on the question I posed here.
John T., where can I get a photo of the Delrin center? Got lots of it so I can turn my own, if possible.

 

[jttheclockman]

I think my OOR might be due to the long mandrel shaft flexing a bit. Our AAW chapter meeting is tomorrow night. I'm going to ask a veteran pen turner about adjustable mandrels I see in the Woodcraft catalogue. Or get his input on the question I posed here.
John T., where can I get a photo of the Delrin center? Got lots of it so I can turn my own, if possible.

I make my own. Bought a long length of it and turn a point on the end. I support it in my collet chuck. I have several of those chucks and leave that one with the center in it so easy to change out when needed. I always check to see if it is running true and if I feel it has shifted I spin a little off to true it up again. Works great for me.

 

[Woodchipper]

John T., thanks from another John T. I have lots of some sort of plastic. Recovered from recycling center when tossed by a local business.