Turning With a Skew

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Jim in Oakville

Jim in Oakville

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Aug 9, 2004
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Oakville, Ontario, Canada.
My favorite turning tool for pens has been my 3/4" skew for the last year. I'm not sure what was going on today but I turned 5 cigar pens from hard maple and did not need to sand any of them...one last super light clean pass on each blank....I was stunned...is this a milestone for you other skew turners?
 
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Jim,
I don't think I've turned Maple, so I can't give you a good barometer there. I have done a lot of Cocobolo and Purpleheart, and can tell you that I can usually get about 2-3 pens (SL or cigar) per sharpening with these woods. With the three Lignum Vitae pens I did, on the other hand, I went through both my 1" and my 1/2" skews on EACH pen and was SERIOUSLY contemplating sharpening in between (if it wasn't such a pain, I would have!)
 
Nope, haven't reached that yet. I usually remove excess CA on my pens with a skew. I hate sanding CA since it loads my sandpaper.
 
I been using a skew since I turned my first pen a year ago.
Being "self taught" I tried each different tool when I had a jet pen making lathe.
I think the skew was the sharpest out of the box , it was the one that gave the best results without sharpening.
The pen lather was returned the same week I bought it, too light duty.
The origial tools went back also.
I purchsed an HF set of chisels and a 3/4 skew from WC.
I still find it necessary to sand but I normally start at 320. Sometimes 240.
I use a flat "rouned" chisel for roughing, I imagine that is some type of skew.To "straighten the lines" I also use a wwodworking chisel.
 
My two most common tools are the skew ( I hit it with my diamond hone very lightly beofore my last 2-3 cuts) and my Sorby fingernail gouge. On some woods like amboyna and cocobolo the finish is extremely nice
 
I always use a skew for my pens.. start with a planing cut to round the blank, then shape it from there.. I still need to sand afterward, but then again my pens are sanded to at least 1000 grit before finishing.. and the skew will not give you that kind of finish... even when I make my final pass 90 degrees to the blank and take off dust...
 
Originally posted by Old Griz
<br />I always use a skew for my pens.. start with a planing cut to round the blank, then shape it from there.. I still need to sand afterward, but then again my pens are sanded to at least 1000 grit before finishing.. and the skew will not give you that kind of finish... even when I make my final pass 90 degrees to the blank and take off dust...
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I concur
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(Put another mark on the wall)
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My daughter has become a Star Wars junkie since I bought the collection for Christmas.. that's my Yoda impersonation... still trying to figure out how to get a light sabre in a pen...
 
Jim, hard maple is the best wood in the world to use the skew on. From what you describe, it sounds as if you probably have truly mastered the skew. But, you will find that with almost any other wood, no matter how good you are with the skew, you will still have to sand. With hard maple, you may even find that the skew finish is so good that you have to sand some just to give a finish some tooth to stick to the wood.
 
I have been lucky enough to see Nick Cook do a whole day demo/workshop. He uses almost nothing but a skew, he is a true master with it. From my experience when the lathe, the wood, the skew, and myself are all in synch it can make beautiful work very easy and fast. If any one of those elements get out of synch you will make nothing but frustrating shavings and expensive firewood. [8D] Some days I can use it all day with no problems, other days it stays in the tool rack! [}:)]
 
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