Turning spalted blanks

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kentonjm

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Jul 12, 2016
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Phoenix, AZ
I have some blanks that I guess are spalted tamarind or pretty close to it. They are not particularly punky but they are softish. I have tried a few times to use them and each time I end up blowing out the ends as I get closer to final diameter.

The tubes were glued using thick CA which seems to have worked for everything else I have tried. Should I be trying epoxy or gorilla glue?

Undoubtedly my technique and patience could be improved and I have tried with both carbide tools and a skew both of which see to be fine until the blank gets thinner.

Not sure I am ready for a home stabilization setup or is that the real solution here?

I am sure this is partly the nature of the beast but what tips would you great folks have to help me actually be able to make a pen from one of these blanks. Thanks
 
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I have been turning cactus juice home stabilized spalted oak, and I had one blow out on me this weekend, because the tube glue had a void. If I'm getting blow outs on stabilized you are going to get blowouts with out it.

You could try light cuts, then CA coat, then light coats, then CA coat. That will give you the strength you'll need.
 
I have some blanks that I guess are spalted tamarind or pretty close to it. They are not particularly punky but they are softish. I have tried a few times to use them and each time I end up blowing out the ends as I get closer to final diameter.

The tubes were glued using thick CA which seems to have worked for everything else I have tried. Should I be trying epoxy or gorilla glue?

Undoubtedly my technique and patience could be improved and I have tried with both carbide tools and a skew both of which see to be fine until the blank gets thinner.

Not sure I am ready for a home stabilization setup or is that the real solution here?

I am sure this is partly the nature of the beast but what tips would you great folks have to help me actually be able to make a pen from one of these blanks. Thanks

I have some spalted Tamarind just like that. Soft almost to the point of being punky. Sharp tools, this is one of the reasons that i have been learning to use the skew. Also some thin CA soaked into the end of the blank will help.
 
Three things:
1. skew. I am not good with a skew, so I go to number 2 AND 3.
(Skew is MUCH better on soft woods.

2. TIME. When I created something different for the first time, I did have some blowouts. I did that on a few blanks that I paid a pretty penny in overseas shipping. Then I had an argument with myself: What is more important - finish today and risk blowing out a blank; OR take an extra day and make good use of the blank I have?

For me, I would back off the attack. I kept a sharpener (scary sharp) and swipe the scraper two or three times over .3micro sandpaper; turn for about 30 seconds to a minute; swipe the sandpaper a couple of times; turn.

Take minuscule bites. In between bites and sharpening, I would put drops of thin CA on the soft wood. Patience pays off. Don't be even semi-agressive. It might take 30 minutes to do a 10 minute job but it will be worth it.

3. Thin CA before and after each MINUTE on the blank.

Thin CA, time, tiny bites and a fresh razor sharp blade are your friends.
 
I've had similar problems with as similar blank, found out wasn't getting glue in between the blank and tube properly. Another alternative is to get it near to size and then use an 80 grit (sandpaper) skew, working up to 600 sandpaper.
Kryn
 
blow outs

I remember the days I splintered wood turning it round .

Now It doesn't seem to be near that big of a issue .
 
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