Tool rest ?

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rjwolfe3

rjwolfe3

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Joined
Feb 12, 2008
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Mansfield, Ohio, USA.
Hey all,

I have been using the tool rest on my lathe for about 6 months and noticed that it is starting to wear out and get wavy. I think this is transferring to my pens as I turn them. Or am I losing what's left of my mind? Should I replace this rest or grind it flat again or what do you all suggest? The lathe is a Turncrafter Pro (yes, I know its not a Jet but I didn't have the cash for that, lol)

TIA:D
 
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Just take a file and smooth out the toolrest. Tool chattering will leave nicks and grooves that will make sliding the tool smoothly difficult if not impossible.

Steve
 
Not to but in, but yes, you can use a grinder. Maybe run a nice mill file over it once you get the large marks out.
It's pretty hard to hurt a tool rest, other than to grind it away, gone, to disappear. And that would take some grinding. As long as it's flat and smooth, you'll be good.
A lot of us replace our stock tool rests for custom ones. Usually round so the tools slide better. I have this set up. It also provides diff size rests for diff jobs, one blank, two blanks, or even longer work.

200871031354_tool%20rests%20650.jpg
 
Can you point me a direction of someone that sells or makes these custom tool rests? I really like the small one, since I am trying this between centers turning and my currect tool rest is a little long.
Thanks:D
 
Robert Sorby make a modular tool rest system, you can get 4" , 6" , 9" cross bars, 9" internal bowl cross bar, 9" external crossbar, box scraper platform. They are made from hardened steel.
You just buy the stem that suits your lathe and which ever crossbar you need.
Cheers,
Bob.
 
Do any of the sets that you guys have purchased have a 3" tool rest in the set, or sell them as a single piece? 4" is a tad too long, (for me) when turning between centers.
 
Newbie question . . . . why would a rest be a problem if it were to long? What would be the advantage of a short rest?

I have given this thought, came up with no answer . . . but then I am just getting my stuff together to start turning pens . . . Thanks in advance, Steve
 
If you're working on a 4" long pen segment a 9" long rest will most likely conflict with either the headstock, the tailstock, or both. Which means you can't get as close as you should be to the pen segment. I don't like the steel rod based rests because on my big lathe they don't get close enough to small objects. Unfortunately they are what I bought. So I bought a 4" rest that is pitched forward from Woodcraft.

CSUSA lists the robust 'comfort' rests, and they really are the best. -- As long as you can use a 1" rest post.

Marc

Originally posted by sdemars

Newbie question . . . . why would a rest be a problem if it were to long? What would be the advantage of a short rest?

I have given this thought, came up with no answer . . . but then I am just getting my stuff together to start turning pens . . . Thanks in advance, Steve
Click to expand...
 
Originally posted by marcruby

If you're working on a 4" long pen segment a 9" long rest will most likely conflict with either the headstock, the tailstock, or both. Which means you can't get as close as you should be to the pen segment. I don't like the steel rod based rests because on my big lathe they don't get close enough to small objects. Unfortunately they are what I bought. So I bought a 4" rest that is pitched forward from Woodcraft.

CSUSA lists the robust 'comfort' rests, and they really are the best. -- As long as you can use a 1" rest post.

Marc

Originally posted by sdemars

Newbie question . . . . why would a rest be a problem if it were to long? What would be the advantage of a short rest?

I have given this thought, came up with no answer . . . but then I am just getting my stuff together to start turning pens . . . Thanks in advance, Steve
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thank you, makes sense now . . .[:I]
 
Originally posted by stevers

Not to but in, but yes, you can use a grinder. Maybe run a nice mill file over it once you get the large marks out.
It's pretty hard to hurt a tool rest, other than to grind it away, gone, to disappear. And that would take some grinding. As long as it's flat and smooth, you'll be good.
A lot of us replace our stock tool rests for custom ones. Usually round so the tools slide better. I have this set up. It also provides diff size rests for diff jobs, one blank, two blanks, or even longer work.

200871031354_tool%20rests%20650.jpg
Click to expand...

Any chance you know what your BIL did to make those? What type of steel will work? sizes for rest? Did he contour the support post or just butted, squared and filled with bead?

I realize the support size will be dictated by the lathe that you will be using. A Mini Jet in my case . . . 5/*' diameter

I have a MIG & a chop saw and as they say "down under", I thought I might just "give it a go"

Thanks, Steve
 
Actually, I did all the prep work and he did the welding, then I did all the clean up.
I went to Ace Hardware and bought a piece of 5/8" steel bar stock. Just steel bar. Cut it with a cut off wheel. Took the top bar and, with my 6" grinder, ground a notch in the bar for the shaft to set in. Then he welded them and I used a angle grinder to clean up the welds. Took a total of about an hour to make and cost maybe $10. Cant even remember how much the steel was.
Was easy cheesy. He even did the welding with a cheap 80 amp no name welder.
Good luck and happy welding.

PS: the rests are 3", 4" and 6".
 
If you take a piece of 1" stock and cut it 1" under the total height of your lathe rest you have now, (assuming you have a 1" post) Then buy some 1" angle iron and cut it to all the lengths you can dream up. If you have a local steel suplier near you, they may cut them nice and square on the ends for a bit extra.

Hold the 1" stock in your lathe chuck and with your drill chuck drill a hole one size under 5/16". (9/32" btw) Drill in about 1.25" and then use a 5/16"-18 tap to thread the hole. I put the tap in the drill chuck and with the tailstock loose I spin the lathe by hand to thread the hole.

Now drill 5/16" holes in the center of the angle iron pieces and you can bolt them togather. In-fill the angle iron with wood if you like and you have great tool rests.

I found that welding can warp the angle iron and even steel rod for the top so I stopped making them this way. Maybe my buddy Philip will post photos of the ones I made him so you all can see.
 
Originally posted by Firefyter-emt

If you take a piece of 1" stock and cut it 1" under the total height of your lathe rest you have now, (assuming you have a 1" post) Then buy some 1" angle iron and cut it to all the lengths you can dream up. If you have a local steel suplier near you, they may cut them nice and square on the ends for a bit extra.

Hold the 1" stock in your lathe chuck and with your drill chuck drill a hole one size under 5/16". (9/32" btw) Drill in about 1.25" and then use a 5/16"-18 tap to thread the hole. I put the tap in the drill chuck and with the tailstock loose I spin the lathe by hand to thread the hole.

Now drill 5/16" holes in the center of the angle iron pieces and you can bolt them togather. In-fill the angle iron with wood if you like and you have great tool rests.

I found that welding can warp the angle iron and even steel rod for the top so I stopped making them this way. Maybe my buddy Philip will post photos of the ones I made him so you all can see.
Click to expand...

Not sure as to orientation of angle, but the idea of using common steel stock sounds good . .
 
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