To skew or not to skew?

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Woodchipper

Woodchipper

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Mar 15, 2017
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That is the question. Been using the one inch roughing spindle gouge and a Bedan tool for fine tuning. Gearing up to put some scraps on the lathe and practice with a 1/2 inch and 1 inch skew. No problem with wood but totally in the dark about using a skew on synthetics to use a generic term. Your experience and advice are most appreciated. If I recall, there are some that turn to round with a skew.
 
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I wanted to learn how to use the skew specifically so I could get really clean surfaces off the tool when working with tricky woods like diagonal or cross-cut dense exotics. It's been a very rewarding skill to develop, and I love how much sanding it saves me (even on more pedestrian woods like cherry). Lately I've been making spatulas, and it's a perfect tool for getting a good cut even when spinning a flat object that won't ever get to 100% round on the lathe.

I almost never use it with non-woods though. As soon as I have acrylic or especially something like TruStone on the lathe, I just reach for my carbide tool. I'm curious to see what other people around here have to say about using a skew with synthetics.
 
BHuij, thanks for the information. Good to know.
I practiced with a piece of wood that started out to be an ornament. Turned very easily. Rode the bevel and started to get fine dust, then moved the skew the full length of the piece.
I found an acrylic blank that had dimples in one end. "What the heck, worst I could do is ruin it." Put it on the lathe and applied the skew. Fortunately, I had enough material to work with and turned off the dimples. Had one in the middle of the blank but I think it was in the material. Just need to turn the other part and assemble the pen.
Taking a break now and plan on viewing some YT videos on using the skew.
 
Craft Supplies USA just recently released a pair of YouTube videos showcasing basic and intermediate skew skills. Their videos are always produced really well, so I found them very helpful. Richard Raffan also has some videos covering the skew, one in particular where he demonstrates some of the catches you can get, what causes them, and how to avoid them.
 
I use a skew with soft synthetics. With Hard synthetics, I use a carbide presented below center. I have done some Trustones that are "hard as nails". Both produce endless ribbons
 
Skew will work on hybrid and on plastic but got to be very sharp or you can get some interesting chatter work designs on the surface ! At which point the freshly sharpened roughing gouge ( extra mass ) comes in handy . DAMHIKT 😇
 
Been using the skew exclusively for the last few days even to squaring a blank. I find that one must take light cuts with a sharp skew on synthetic blanks.
 
Woodchipper said:
Thanks, Randy. Recently had a blank shatter when trimming to length. I think the label said resin.
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John; Synth blanks have a tendency to crack when the drill bit breaks through the end of the blank, so don't do that. Use the "cut long, drill short, trim" method. Cut the blanks about 1/4 or 3/8" (8 ? mm) longer than the brass tube. Mark the drill bit and drill into the blank until the mark disappears into the blank. Add about a 1/16" (2mm) to the drilled depth. Now trim off the un-drilled end to exact length plus 1/32" (1mm). This avoids breaking the blank when the drill bit breaks through the end of the blank. Use a sanding disk to trim the blank to final length. Rick Herrell makes a sweet offset sanding attachment for the lathe. A faceplate and 6" diameter piece of Plywood completes the setup.
 
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