This will soon become my exterior shop door

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Karin Voorhis

Karin Voorhis

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Joined
Nov 6, 2009
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689
Location
Angola, NY
Perhaps you all can enjoy this as much as and give me some insight into a world I know not much about. I love the look think it will be perfect for the first impression coming into my little wood shop!

Found this on craigs list: 36" X 80" solid mohagany door not pre-hung for $75
(did I do ok on price?)

What should I finish it with before I get up? I am also going to get a storm door for the outside of it being in western NY any suggestions there?

Or perhaps I should just cut it all into pen blanks and live with nasty junk green painted nasty ready to fall off door.
 

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Is it rated as an exterior or interior door? If its not rated as an exterior it will come apart. The glues they use on interior doors will not hold up to exterior usage. YOu might be able to seal the door and it will last a little longer. Mike
 
mredburn said:
Is it rated as an exterior or interior door? If its not rated as an exterior it will come apart. The glues they use on interior doors will not hold up to exterior usage. YOu might be able to seal the door and it will last a little longer. Mike
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The guy I got it from told me that it was exterior door. However super thanks! I understand the difference but did not know that there was a difference. I love learning!! Thanks!!!
 
mredburn said:
Also most "solid" doors are made up of a veneer cover and a different wood core.
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You will know if it is solid or laminated solid when you drill for the knob. Be sure to use a finish that has UV inhibitors if you use it for an exterior door.
 
hunter-27 said:
You will know if it is solid or laminated solid when you drill for the knob. Be sure to use a finish that has UV inhibitors if you use it for an exterior door.
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Not ready to drill yet but this door is super solid heavy!!! First wood I could not bring into the shop myself!! Yhep had to ask for help!
 
I'm sure it is solid wood, just not all solid wood doors are created with the same wood front to back, either way it will be a great looking entry way
 
That's a beautiful door. I should know as I have been hanging doors for a living for the last fifteen years. I would suggest a water based poly for a finish. Make sure you finish the top and bottom edges! I would even recommend metal caps over the top and bottom. Properly sealed, a solid core door should last 50 years.
 
Rmartin said:
That's a beautiful door. I should know as I have been hanging doors for a living for the last fifteen years. I would suggest a water based poly for a finish. Make sure you finish the top and bottom edges! I would even recommend metal caps over the top and bottom. Properly sealed, a solid core door should last 50 years.
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I understand the seal part. Can you explain the metel caps? Do the come premade or do I mold a sheetmetal? Sorry I don't realy know much here. I am very happy to learn more...
 
Karin

I would highly recommend getting some Helmsman Spar Urethane for the door. It is stuff made to do boats, and has a ton of UV inhibitors. The only thing that might be a problem is what type of finish is on the door now. You might have to check and see if the Spar Urethane is compatible with the finish that is on there now. With the Spar on there, and the proper protection at the bottom with the metal sweep, that door will last at least as long as the building, but probably longer! The Spar is easy to apply, and can be brushed on with excellent results if you take your time and are careful. My two cents, but if the door was mine, I would do the Helmsman Spar Urethane! Great buy on the door and what better way to welcome people into your shop with!
 
We use mahogany for the doors we build even when they get painted (which is most of the time) as it's resistant to decay. Still, I would take extra precaution to seal around the panels (a tough area to deal with as the panel has to be able to move but if it takes in water it's going to be trouble) and as others said the top and especially the bottom edges. We have started using a coat or two of West System epoxy on the bottom edges to really seal off any moisture that might want to wick up in.
Here's how I dealt with the water getting trapped in the panel groove on a recent project ....
http://picasaweb.google.com/toolmanlh/DoubleDoors#
 
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Solid Mahogany for $75. Yeah I would say that is a good deal.
From the photo it looks like a solid door also not a veneered core. Veneering is just one way to keep door affordable but quality does suffer a lot of times because of it. you can tell if it is a neneer or not by looking at the edges of the door as well. In this case I am seeing panels that are made from solid boards. or that is my best bet from just a photo.

Get it so it can stand up to the weather and take the time to find out how to really hang it right. it is a door worth the effort, and you will gain the benefits of a smooth working door for many years if you get it right. Just realise you have to know where you want everything before you start drilling and cutting. measuring and copying what you see on another door is a good way to go. door knob height, where to place the hinges, how to install the hinges (pay attention here they can be put on backwards) the distance the hole for a knob is from the edge of the door. that sort of stuff can all be figured from any existing door. but it is very emportant that the work is very near perfect so take your time.
 
That is one lucky door! If it were in my shop, I woulda already found out if it was solid or not... As soon as my Circ. saw made the first pen blank pass!

Seriously, NICE FIND! It will b a beautiful entry for a woodshop!
 
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