thin strip jig for tablesaw

[Trapshooter]

My take on Wood magazines thin strip ripping jig using shop scraps. I left out the scale and plexiglass window.

UHMW part to the tablesaw slot left of the blade, cross slide sets thickness, move workpiece to brass screw with tablesaw fence. I made this to finish my PITH.
What do you use?

 

[ctEaglesc]

looks lke a home made miter gauge

 

[Trapshooter]

Originally posted by ctEaglesc
<br />looks lke a home made miter gauge

yep, pretty much, don't tell my wife, she thinks I'm smart[)]

 

[ctEaglesc]

What is the thinnest piece you feel you can safely cut with that?
You say it is a "ripping" jig but a biter gauge is predominantly used for cross cuts.Since it was in wood mag.I would think it might have been designed for flat work application where the pieces might be a little thicker.
The crosses in my inlays are approximately.050 which is thinner than 1/16th.
I can't see doing that on the jig you posted.
Just my take.

 

[gerryr]

I don't understand how this works, but then I don't have a table saw so maybe that's my problem. Could it work on a bandsaw?

 

[Trapshooter]

Think of it as a dead stop instead of a "jig". Right now I am only cutting 1/8" strips, the width of my saw cut. Zero clearance plate is important, I have not made one yet though and my strips fall to the floor. I can not say how thin the cut can be to be safe. I personaly will not rip anything without a push stick on smaller flat stock.
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Usually the work you keep is between the blade and fence. In this case you set up the jig as a dead stop to the left of the blade and set your work on the left side of the fence. Set the distance between the brass screw on the left facing kerf on the blade to the thickness you want. Then move the jig towards you, away from the blade, bring the fence with the work piece on it to the left until it hits the brass screw head and lock the fence. Remove the jig and make the cut. Use the strips that come off the left side of the blade, the position that most times are scrap. The jig is used to keep succsesive cuts the same thickness by moveing the fence and work material to the dead stop after each cut.
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I currently have some smaller pieces glued to a sacrificial piece of flatstock to make the cutting easier.

 

[bob393]

Interesting.
I bet it will work too.
Do you use a finger board to hold the stock down?
I always have trouble with the stock lifting up.

 

[Trapshooter]

Originally posted by bob393
<br />Interesting.
I bet it will work too.
Do you use a finger board to hold the stock down?
I always have trouble with the stock lifting up.

Bob393, I used it well tonight. Yes I use a finger board,,,, sometimes. I also used my wood glued to a larger board which gives me more control of the work piece and it puts more space between the blade and the fence, this keeps my push stick or fingers further away frome the blade.
As for the stock lifting, that usually happens because the blade starts the cut on the botom of the work and there is not enough mass in the rest of the piece to overcome the force of the blade cut. Try the "cutting plastic sheets technique". Raise the blade up so the teeth hit the wood in a more downward action. This more or less puts the force to hold the work to the table instead of pushing it back toward the operator. The blade does not start at the bottom of the work piece but the middle to middle top of the piece. I know it goes against the conventional flatwork rule of keeping the blade gullet just above the wood to be cut but it actually works as clamping force where the teeth hit the work in a downward direction instead of more toward the operator. I have not seen any tear out issues yet and I use this on acrylic sheets, but not most woods. I still use the blade set with the gullets just above the work most times.