Thin CA Finish

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SnakeCharmer

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Nov 29, 2006
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Port Orchard, WA, USA.
I use the CA/BLO finish that Russ illustrates.... My finish is very inconsistant even tho I do exactly the same thing each time..... the latest problem is that after I have put on 4-5 coats the 600 sand paper sands thru very quickly... 2 seconds or so...
I really want to perfect this finish because when I get it right it is exactly the finish I want.
I do not think that I am puting too much pressure on the paper towel with the blo that I have seen mentioned here.
I also get a sort of rough finish that I have to sand out with 600, 1000, 1500, 2000.... then burnish with small leftover shavings.
any advice????? :)
 
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I found my problem with finishing was that almost all of the finish ended up being absorbed by the paper towel instead of making it to the pen blank. I now use one of the small plastic bags from a pen kit to apply the finish with. Almost 100% of the finish makes it onto the pen now. Since doing this I have noticed that my finishes come out much smoother and more consistent.
 
Are you sanding with the lathe running?

When polishing out a CA finish, I never do it with the lathe running.

I used to, and I sanded through VERY often.
 
Snake,

The method I use is to put 3 drops of BLO on a folded paper towel, then I put 4-5 drops of medium CA on top of the BLO. I then apply that to the pen blank as it is spinning on the lathe at about 800 rpm. I move it back and forth very quickly until I smell the curing, and my eyes start burning. When I remove the paper towel, it is always black from the heat/curing process. I have found that this works very well for me. I never sand after applying the CA/BLO. Before I begin finishing, I sand with 100, 400, 600 and 1500 grit sandpaper, then clean with DNA, sand with micro mesh, clean again with DNA. Then, I buff with Tripoli and White Diamond. The pen is already very smooth and shiny before I put the finish on. The finish is only to protect, the shine has to come from the wood underneath.

I hope this helps.

Dan Heine
 
I don't sand my CA finish either. I go straight to the buffer from the lathe. The quality of the CA finish (or any other finish) is a function of the quality of the wood surface before finishing. I sand and MM the pen before applying the CA. The better the unfinished surface the better the finish on the final product.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
I don't sand my CA finish either. I go straight to the buffer from the lathe. The quality of the CA finish (or any other finish) is a function of the quality of the wood surface before finishing. I sand and MM the pen before applying the CA. The better the unfinished surface the better the finish on the final product.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...

I don't suppose we could talk you into doing a video?[:)][:)]
Please please please!!!
 
I am a new pen turner, and have had success using straight CA, but being brought up finishing a lot of different items, I sand between each coat, and have not had any major problems with the CA finish.... just problems with the wood.

I sand to 400 grit with sand paper first with the lathe on the off to remove the scratches,
then two coats of thin CA sand 1800mm to 3200mm, following the above procedure for each grit,
and then a coat of thick CA, sand 1800mm to 12000mm,
and then another coat of CA, sand 3200mm to 12000mm,
and finally buff with a soft cloth using buffing compound applied directly to the piece.

I have to agree the quality of the "finish" of the raw wood dictates the quality of the final finish.
 
I did a tutorial with lots of pictures. Look in the library in the 2006 group. http://www.penturners.org/content/DonWardCA.pdf

A video...there are already a couple and we all do about the same thing. Read my tutorial and watch the other videos and let me know how your next attempt works out. A video...hummm... my wife is a videographer...and a really good one too...hummmm...I don't think I'll show her the other thread (about women and wives) just yet. Good luck.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Originally posted by samuel07
<br />
I don't sand my CA finish either. I go straight to the buffer from the lathe. The quality of the CA finish (or any other finish) is a function of the quality of the wood surface before finishing. I sand and MM the pen before applying the CA. The better the unfinished surface the better the finish on the final product.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Click to expand...

I don't suppose we could talk you into doing a video?[:)][:)]
Please please please!!!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for all the help..... I will try some of these Ideas. my wood has a high burnished polish on it prior to finishing so I think that that is OK. I am probably using too much blo and rubbing too hard. I may try strait ca.... I am also in a cold shop this time of year.... thanks again
 
by the way I DO use medium CA.....
Click to expand...
Snake,
Glad you said that, 'cause I was gonna suggest Med. CA instead of Thin. I use the method that Don Ward uses. He taught me how to do this and I rarley have a problem. I sand my blanks 240, 320, 400, 600, and sometimes 800, then 3 coats of BLO/CA. NO sanding after any CA!! Then off to the buffer for Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnuba Wax.

As for video, you might check with Jeff Carroll of Bubbasville fame. He might have video of Don doing this last year.
 
sure sounds easy...... I have been doing the same.... the result is a very rough surface that MUST be sanded to get a good finish.....OR way to thin... It must be my cold shop... I have tries several ways with the CA.. with and without BLO still get a VERY rough finish. not quite so thin any longer.... althoug I still have to be careful on sanding.
 
There are a lot of questions about this CA finish and I have slowly been picking up on it and I think I know how I am going to do it now. I hope I won't have the problems that you guys are having with your CA finish.
By the way, don't you go through a lot of CA bottles with this finish, since I am only fifteen, I can't afford to go through too many, where is a place where I can get them cheaper than Woodcraft?
Thanks,
Dillon
 
Dillon,
You don't use a LOT of CA on each pen, so a bottle should last a while. Just a few drop per barrel. Check with the Classified or Group Buys for better pricing on CA. I think I may have used two small bottles in the last year.... YMMV!!
 
Got to a local hobby store that caters to RC model builders. They will probably be selling stuff with their own name on it, but most likely it is made by Bob Smith Industries. I've been using stuff from my local hobby store for close to 2 years and have had no problems.
 
Method it is of course..... however as soon as I get home and try other brands of towels!!!! I think that my method is fine... I got good finishes earlier on but now all the sudden they are not so good. Of course you can publish one method and for some reason or another it does not work for everybody... i think that you have just got to find the one that fits your style better...... that is exactly what I am doing.....
 
as a case in point.... some have stated that they use the plastic bag that the pens come in ..... for me that is a joke.... no matter what I do... more, less pressure. move the bag fast or slow.... the finish is terrible and more often than not the bag becomes part of the pen... yet others do this just fine.... moral of the story is that just keep trying and don't give up.... it will come togather...hopefully sooner than later
 
I have tried most approches to CA at this point...... I just do not get any kind of finish that I like without sanding off a lot of CA.... I guess my next thought is to change the CA.... I love the finish on the occasional pen.... I must get this right.
so far I have tried with and without BLO, changed paper towels, more and less pressure on the towel..... I guess the next step is the CA.... it is a medium set... [:)]
 
If anybody is still subscribed to this topic.... I think I have figgured it out..... it is not my technique other than it needed to be adjusted for the cold and humidity.... I am getting a fairly consistant finish now..... first of all I sand down to 2000 grit and then burnish with shavings (on hard wood) on soft wood you have to be more gentle. I give a coat of thin CA the amount depending on the hardness of the wood.... if it soaks in quickly give it some more... then I go to the medium CA... The trick I found that works for me in cold weather is a THIN coat followed up with a little BLO and GO LIGHTLY with the pressure.. you may need 6 coats... to get enough coverege to keep from finishing through the coats.... I do not get a super glossy finish but it is thick enough to start with 600 grit just to get the ridges level... this may take some easy sideways sanding.... then I go down to 2000 quickly and burnish with shavings... or paper bag... put a little Ren wax on it and buff.... not a bad finish for a beginner..... hopefully it will warm up and I will get a better finish without having to sand much.... .[:)]
I may give Plexi a try as well [:D]
 
Fred,
I didn't really see anybody mention different brands of CA. There will be differences in the CA as well. If you've been having problems, you might try a different brand the next time you order. I've actually had better luck with my shop cold than when it gets hot. It definitely changes the action of the CA. I start turning at about 45 F. It's still too cold here to get into my unheated shop.[V]
Good luck.
 
I will try other brands. I have tried only 2 brands so far... with little difference except on rare ocasions... It makes sense that different brands would react slightly differently in different conditions.... I am also a modeler and I use lots of CA... different brands are very different...what brand do you use?
 
Throw out your old sand paper strip rolls and get Abralon. It takes less CA off than the regular sandpaper which scrathes real deep. Then you have to sand the scratches off. I use Abralon 180 then 500 then right into MM.
 
I mix my own I add a little thick say 25% to a bottle of thin and thats what I use . I like the way it goes on better an it holds up fine . I have a pile a pens out in the world working hard and none have bunced back because of a thinner finish . But YMMV ..

pipes
 
Are you trying to get a CA finish like the pieces pictured below? I don't use paper towels. I don't use BLO. I don't use thin CA. No hocus pocus.

I do use accelerator. I do sand. I do use thick CA. Just straight forward CA application. In fact, my SIL just turned his first pen today. I talked him through the finish and it is just like the pics below.

20074841448_BS3.jpg


20074841539_SEG1.jpg
 
Originally posted by huntersilver
<br />I thought Viva was the towell of choice??
Click to expand...

I use the blue shop towels from Sam's Club they work great IMO

You can see one a my CA finishes here on this one Dalmatian ebony on top and black ebony on the bottom . IMO the bottom looks like plastic but it is wood this pen just sold for $150.00 [:D]

ebonyeurorttgSmall.jpg
 
Originally posted by SnakeCharmer
<br />You guys who claim to just toss some CA on some turned wood and it comes out like that must have a direct connection to the Allmighty... [:D]
Click to expand...

Scripture dos say that whatever I lay my hands to shall prosper!!!

As for laying it oput smoothly, I use index cards cut into 1" x 3" strips and float it on the surface of the CA then immediately hit with accelerator.
 
A formula that works consistantly but not a glossy finish yet without some sanding starting with 800 grit

1. Turn wood down to the best finish you can get
2. 2 coats of thin CA applied at top of pen while turning slow with
paper towel under the pen 2-3 drops on each blank (slimline so
far) I fold paper towel into a very small diameter fold thick
enough that the thin does not soak thru the towel...[:0]
3. spread these coats thin and quickly one or two very quick
passes.. hardens softer woods... hard woods prob not needed
4. Will harden quickly between coats....move to new spot on paper
towel for each section of pen.
5. same thing with the medium CA... move to new spot on paper towel
for each section of pen. (imp) This is quick process you do not
have long before the CA on the paper towel goes to smoking so one
or two quick passes is all you will have time for. The CA on the
pen will not harden so quickly so you have time to spread it out
a bit.
6. I spray the axcellerator on a small portion of paper towel and
let it soak in just a bit so I don't have lots of wet towel...
just a little....
7. Run this portion of towel under each section very softly..
between each coat...you will find that it hardens the CA quickley
and does not leave much excellerator on the pen..... wipe ALL the
excellerator off well....
8. I use three or four coats but you may like less... the CA builds
up quickly
9. The finish is not perfect yet but at least I have not sanded thru
into wood..
10. I finish with 800 thru 2000 grit...carefully until it is without
blemish... I turn the pen rarely when I am under 1000 grit...I
just sand lengthwise ...then paper bag it...(thanks Russ) ...
then white diamond(I think)buff then Ren Wax and buff.

I have as yet to try the card to smooth the CA out yet ... but I will and hopefully I will get a smoother finish that will require less sanding... [:D][:D]
 
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cozee....Thanks for posting your CA application I may try cardboard to smooth the CA out.... I think that I am finally getting some good finishes... I use Ren wax and from what I hear you do sacrifice some polish when you use it....
 
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