The skew is killing me!

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phsv

phsv

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2014
Messages
48
Location
Laredo, TX
I have been trying to improve on using my skew tool but I just eventually ruin a blank!

I realize that there are a lot of resources online but I was wondering if anybody had any tips or videos that they recommend about using this tool.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Check out the Captain Eddie Videos online and just google or search Youtube and you will find plenty. Carl Jacobson makes some good teaching videos too.

I am sure there are some turners or a wood turning club near you who can help.

Good Luck!
 
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No turning club where I live. :( Might have to travel north a few hours. I'll make sure to check out those links.
 
If all else fails -- Keith Tompkins sells a skew that is almost catch proof -- a bit slower in the cuts and does not peel cut as well -- but hard to get a catch.

Take a look at the topic of why catches -- and then think about where you are pushing the margin -- and long point down is sometimes the answer
 
Turned some of the wood you sent me yesterday! It sure was fun to work with. I'll post pictures later this evening.
 
I have had a lot of success with my skew lately. It is a one inch skew and I am thinking that is helping me. From what I have read, the smaller skews are easier to have issues with, so learning with a larger is probably a good thing for me.

I also know, I sharpen a LOT. I do it by hand as I do not have a jig made yet. I am waiting until after Christmas with the hopes I get a new grinder. :) I have been good and put it on my Santa list.

So for me, the SHARP SHARP helps a lot
 
I had the same issue with the skew when I started. It just seemed so hard to learn. I would get frustrated & give up on it. I finally decided I was going to start using it till I mastered it. Then I started using it every time I got a chance. Practice was the secret... It started getting easier each time I picked it up. Then I looked back & wondered why it had seemed so hard...
 
FWIW, there is an Alan Lacer video (I have seen it on DVD, don't know if it's anywhere else) that is the best skew info I've seen. He covers it all and he is da man with a skew. I'll see if I can get a little more info and post it.
WB
 
One thing is that the skew works best if it has a flat grind on the bevel. Take a look at a new skew in the store. You will see it has a flat grind on the bevel. BUT if you sharpen it on a grinder, you get a hollow grind and a more grabby tool. Capt Eddie grinds his with a convex bevel and this is catch resistant. But not as sharp. I grind mine on a disk sander with a flat bevel.

Oh; and practice, practice, practice!

Hope this helps.
 
I like the convex grind like Capt Eddie uses. Since I started using the convex grind (and practice!) the grabby tendency has sharply decreased.

Go down to the local megga orange box place and grab a couple of furring strips, they are usually poplar, chop them up into 5" lengths chuck them up between centers and keep practicing until you can control how and when it cuts. Capt Eddie's video on how to cut with a skew shows a great technique. That will give you a good starting point. Then you can work with it until you figure it out for your self.
 
There is a video i thought was helpful, i looked around a bit but couldn't find the exact one. Basically the guy drew a line down the middle of the blade, and advised keeping the cuts below that line or on the bottom third - where the bottom is in contact with the tool rest. If you you cut on the side that isn't on the rest, you are asking for trouble. Understanding 'why' you get a catch also is a big help - also youtube.
 
I've found that since I have learned how to properly grind and hone my skew it has become easier to learn how to use
download and watch one of these Sharpen Turning Tools podcasts from Woodsmith. The skew is demonstrated from 53minutes into the podcast and goes through about 1:02:00. The technique of hollow grinding and then flat honing is explained very well.
Added bonus is that you get a lesson on sharpening all your turning tools.

There is also a podcast on how to turn pens listed there and I found it very informative.
 
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The best dvd I've found, watched and utilized techniques is "the taming of the skew" by Mike Darlow. Got mine through Leevalley.com
 
Charlie_W said:
Check out the Captain Eddie Videos online and just google or search Youtube and you will find plenty. Carl Jacobson makes some good teaching videos too.

I am sure there are some turners or a wood turning club near you who can help.

Good Luck!
Click to expand...

Captain Eddie is who I watched and after practicing on just regular dowels from the big box store, I use the skew all the time after I get things round.
 
KenV said:
If all else fails -- Keith Tompkins sells a skew that is almost catch proof -- a bit slower in the cuts and does not peel cut as well -- but hard to get a catch.

Take a look at the topic of why catches -- and then think about where you are pushing the margin -- and long point down is sometimes the answer
Click to expand...

Hi Ken. I already have some skews that I've finally learned how to use even though I'm very careful with them.

I bought the Tompkins skew that you mentioned. Looks like another learning curve for me. So far, I much prefer my other skews over the Thompson. However, maybe that's just me. My favorite skew for pens is my 3/8th oval Pinnacle with a short handle.
 
Hi Stanley:

For what it is worth, your experience was similar to mine. Ten days and ten pens later, I reach for the Thompson skew and/or D-way skew first. In fact, I no longer use my Sorbey spindlemaster or Sorbey oval skew. It is not that the Sorbey's or others are not very good, it was just a matter of experience (getting used to the skews), and slightly changing the bevel angle to 30 or 35 degrees. In fact, D-way arrive at 35, but the Thompson arrived at 30 or 25, and I have since changed the bevel angle and love the results - smoother finishing (less sanding), so far no tear outs, and many of the other benefits. I am likely to change the Thompson to 40 degrees, but I am having success with 35 - just want to experiment.

I am NOT trying to persuade you or anyone to use anything but what makes the hobby fun for them and produce the results that they want. My first 300 of 450 pens were made with carbide and I swore that I would never use a skew.

I only wanted to share with you my personal learning curve and even frustration and disappointment. However, several hours of practice, about 3 dozen phone calls and emails to the seller, and IAP member later, I do prefer the skews. I am going to give the Carters brand a try next - just because I like to try different tools, not because I am unhappy with the D-way or Thompson. I also watch several excellent (and free) videos many times. There are two or three that I continue to watch.

Bottom line: Use what makes you happy and produces the desires results for your manner and style of turning. I was not getting what I wanted from carbide, nor Sorbey, so I tried others. It's a very "personal" issue.

BTW, thank you for serving our country.
 
leslie hines said:
Lots of practice and Captin Eddie you tube vedios or good
Click to expand...

Capt. Eddies video was what got me started to finally learn how to use a skew. Actually, it is pretty simple. You do have to watch and pay attention to what your doing and take care to keep the tip up.
 
@ Tony. Me, too. I have been using my carbide tools for most things. I had asked for some advice on here with problems I was having with Wenge. Use a skew to avoid splitting was a suggestion. That's when I learned. I have a 1" oval skew that has now become my favorite on pens rather than some smaller skews that I have. I used it today for the same problem I had with the wenge.

I do have a small easy wood carbide rougher that's also good for very light work. You have to be very gentle with it though. I think that it's ironic that some (and me in past) would not use a skew because we didn't feel we could control the tool. Now I feel like I have more control with it than the carbide tools. YMMV
 
I did like the oval skew, with a concave grind, but I couldn't consistently sharpen it.
 
This might sound dumb or obvious, but don't be afraid to mess around with the tool rest height.

I like my rest lower for using the skew than just about any other tool for pen turning.
 
Dan Masshardt said:
TonyL said:
I did like the oval skew, with a concave grind, but I couldn't consistently sharpen it.
Click to expand...

I never ever grind my oval skew - it is hard to get right and isn't really necessary IMO.

Belt sander to shape then it's all diamond hone. With a rare return to the sander.
Click to expand...

Good advice, Dan. Here's what I use. It's called a Carver Sharp. I bought it for my carving tools, but now use it more to sharpen my lathe tools. The speed is 1750 rpms.
 

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Unless I am doing something wrong, I lower the rest height as the diameter of the barrel decreases. Interesting, I also prefer using the toe (long) end of the skew. Who knows? I like the results.
 
shastastan said:
Dan Masshardt said:
TonyL said:
I did like the oval skew, with a concave grind, but I couldn't consistently sharpen it.
Click to expand...

I never ever grind my oval skew - it is hard to get right and isn't really necessary IMO.

Belt sander to shape then it's all diamond hone. With a rare return to the sander.
Click to expand...

Good advice, Dan. Here's what I use. It's called a Carver Sharp. I bought it for my carving tools, but now use it more to sharpen my lathe tools. The speed is 1750 rpms.
Click to expand...

I bought the same in Kalamazoo brand, to sharper my oval skews.
 
Dan Masshardt said:
I just use a regular woodworking belt /disk sander I already had. That looks like a neat to though.
Click to expand...

I've added a closet dowel to the extension (not attached in pic) to sharpen long and strong chisels. I've mostly stopped using them now though. The process is pretty simple. I just adjust the extension until the cutting edge is exactly parallel to the belt and no light can be seen between the belt and chisel. I have a number of different grit belts and even a leather strope belt. I think some people only think of sharpening as an after-thought, but I've learned from experience that a sharp tool makes all the difference.
 
Agree with comment above - Alan Lacer is my goto.
His DVD's are the most instructive I've found. Also, his videos on YouTube changed my ways.
His website is: Woodturninglearn.net and he has others as well.
He also has written several articles on use of various tools. They are on his website.
Anyone that can turn a 1/2" spin top with a 2" skew knows how to handle the tool!!
Gordon
 
I've seen a lot of videos where people consistently use the bottom 2/3rds of the skew (towards the heel of the blade) rather than the tip, for general use spindle turning. For making beads, it's used more like a scraper, and the toe (tip of the tool) sees a lot more action.
 
Skie_M said:
I've seen a lot of videos where people consistently use the bottom 2/3rds of the skew (towards the heel of the blade) rather than the tip, for general use spindle turning. For making beads, it's used more like a scraper, and the toe (tip of the tool) sees a lot more action.
Click to expand...

I just went through and did some general maintenance on my lathe and lathe tools.

That reminds me, I need to sharpen my thin cutoff tool again...

So, I have a Harbor Freight Tools branded (Central Machinery) 1-inch by 30 inch belt sander combo with a 5-inch disc sander on the side. I modified it by removing the entire disc sander guard assembly and the disc sander itself, installing a pair of 2-inch buffing wheels with washers to keep them on the screw that I'm using as a mandrel (10 - 32 screw, 1 1/4 inches long). This works pretty well as a buffer.

I grind whatever bevel I feel I need, curved or otherwise, dipping the tool every few seconds into a tall container (glass container, used to hold instant tea when I first got it) that I have secured to the workshop table top (it's sitting inside a metal can that is screwed through the bottom into the table top) so that it can't tip over. Glass, because if sparks are flying, it's pretty much immune, and if it were metal, it would leak in no time. The contents? Water, and enough salt that not all of it can dissolve. I keep the lid on it when I'm not using it.

Now, after I'm happy with the sanding (100 grit belt, by the way), I buff the back of the bevel with the cutting edge of the tool turned DOWN so that the edge I just created wont be worn away by the polishing action. This helps ensure that my chisels ride smoothly on the face of my work, and helps raise a micro-burr on the cutting edge for some fine cutting action. Re-buffing as I go keeps the chisel sharper longer without removing much, if any, of the metal.

This method may not work for most, and in fact some of you will likely have pretty big issues with what I do, but it works for me, for now.
 
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pics of my chisels after maintenance ...

As you can see from the light reflecting off my skews, they have a nice mirror shine to them. It is my belief that such a nice polish on the bevel will give me a smoother cut as I ride the bevel down my material.
 
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