The Beall System....any issues?

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JosephDurham

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Joined
Sep 17, 2012
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So, my Beall system arrived yesterday. I love it. I used it to polish up a few bowls I had turned and the finish was beautiful.

So, tonight I turned a pen, and put a coat of finish on the pen after sanding to 1200 grit. Then put in the Beall system, and began the process of buffing. Well, after I completed all three wheel buffs there was a much duller look to the pen, as well as a white diamond compound smear.

Has anyone else had this issue? Do you use the Beall system for your pens?

Thanks everyone,

Joseph
 
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Sounds like too much WD loaded on the wheel and I suspect you went backwards from an already shiny 1200 grit sanding.
 
hi
may i pop in on this?
i've noticed that too. the pens gets a slightly cloudy look. At what grit should you stop the micro mesh or what ever and go to the wheels?
Thanks
Sulli
 
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You can buff too much. I usually go up to 2000 grit and then buff. For a good demo on buffing, Ed from Exotics did a series of videos, and Woodcraft used to have a video with the owner (I think) of Beal. It doesn't take long with the white diamond as they said that it's just to remove the tripoli. If you went from a shiny finish to dull, then chances are you went too far. The only time I really feel the need to do a more intense buff is if there are some problems in the finish that didn't come out in the sanding.
 
I sand my CA to 600 with wet/dry paper(used dry) and then buff with only two of the Beall wheels, I took off the wax wheel, it gives me more room. No need to sand with micro mesh if you're going to buff IMO.
 
You can buff too much.

I agree. I usually MM to 4000 and then buff. If your too aggressive with the buffing, it will take off the finish. I buff very lightly only on the last 2 wheels with a finished piece. More aggressive on all 3 wheels for Trustone or acrylics.

Go slowly, you can always buff more.
 
Well, I've gotten the acrylic buffing system polishing nicely. Im wet sanding my acrylics, only going through the first three grits, after sanding from 150-400. However, the Jealous system is still not polishing like I had hoped. I did the same with my wood pen blanks after turned, placed three coats of Crystal Hut Polish, then took it over to the buffer and it came out very dull looking. Not nearly as nice as I had hoped. So, placed it back onto the lathe and just finished it with the crystal hut, again. Was very little compound in the wheel, and when that didn't work, added, and it still dis not work out for me.

Joseph
 
Keep practicing, buffing works for many of us. I was happy to throw away my MM pads. I apply 5 or 6 coats of CA after sanding thru at least 600 grit. Then do my buffing without sanding the CA. Everyone has a different process, develop one that gives you the desired results.
 
hi
thanks, i ended up just sanding the ca lightly with 320, then 400, then 600-lightly, just to level the ca, then went to the beall wheels, i liked it much better.

no mm pads at all. i will keep at it.

i was having moisture problems with my wood blanks time to time at the ends of the blanks fogging a little with all the wet sanding. yes i sealed the ends, but still sometimes i am thinking a little water got thru.
but isee it will take some practise with the wheels, i get a little build up of some kind of gunk near the ends, but i can wipe it off.
too much tripoli??
Sulli
 
For those that may have an interest, I just got an email with the demo list for Oct for the Woodcraft store. they will be demoing the Beal system.
This is for the Sterling Heights Mich store, others can check and see if they are doing the demo and when.
:clown:
 
I rarely use any other wheel than the white diamond, never the wax on pens with a CA finish, that always dulls the shine. Never use any if I used Lacquer, buffs right thru it.
On regular turnings ,I may use all three.
 
I think the 1st question should be what type of material did you use for the pen..

Wood, Acrylic.....etc

Different material, different methods
such as wheels, compound and so on
 
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