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JoeSr

Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
19
Location
McFarland, WI
Hello everyone, just want to say the library and a lot of other info has really helped me to develop a WOP finish that I think is going to be my answer for a longer lasting finish than the friction polish (Shell A Wax) I was using. The SAW gave me a very nice finish but did not hold up to much use. I had used the WOP before on walnut and had good results, used it on Pink Ivory and it would not dry. Then I started reading here and found out about all the oil and ways to treat it. Really is making a difference. The one thing I read is, there is no substitute for time. What a difference letting things dry a little longer makes. Thank you for that. Joe
 
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Friction polishes need drying time also. So many make the mistake of assembling a pen with friction polish too soon. The finish is dry but not cured. The finish is still soft off the lathe and needs a day or two to cure and harden. We are an impatient bunch...an I am the leader.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

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Friction polishes need drying time also. So many make the mistake of assembling a pen with friction polish too soon. The finish is dry but not cured. The finish is still soft off the lathe and needs a day or two to cure and harden. We are an impatient bunch...an I am the leader. Do a good turn daily! Don Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 4 using Forum Runner


Do you do anything to it after the day or two before assembling?
 
Dan,
No. Allow the friction polish totally dry and harden then assemble. When I use a friction polish I do not remove the blanks from the mandrel but remove the mandrel from the lathe and set aside for the barrels to dry and harden.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

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Dan, No. Allow the friction polish totally dry and harden then assemble. When I use a friction polish I do not remove the blanks from the mandrel but remove the mandrel from the lathe and set aside for the barrels to dry and harden. Do a good turn daily! Don Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 4 using Forum Runner

So you're saying that even just the handling of them to assemble can compromise the finish?

Interesting. I'll have to experiment and see what I find.
 
You understand correctly. I'll bet not all will agree but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. The late Russ Fairfield convinced me of that many years ago.
Don

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Dan, No. Allow the friction polish totally dry and harden then assemble. When I use a friction polish I do not remove the blanks from the mandrel but remove the mandrel from the lathe and set aside for the barrels to dry and harden. Do a good turn daily! Don Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 4 using Forum Runner

So you're saying that even just the handling of them to assemble can compromise the finish?

Interesting. I'll have to experiment and see what I find.

You understand correctly. I'll bet not all will agree but that's my story and I'm sticking to it. The late Russ Fairfield convinced me of that many years ago.
Don

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy 4 using Forum Runner


Dan,

I have to agree with Don, I have put my fingerprints on more than one friction finish. I now use gloves when finishing to minimize fingerprints but I found that it was better to leave the blank alone on the mandrel for at least 4 hours or more, even with gloves. No fingerprints with gloves, but I discovered that the fingertips sometimes left weird impressions if the glove was slightly loose. Hope this helps.

Michael
 
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