TBC Bushing Availability

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Gary B. Reeter

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Joined
Oct 9, 2013
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53
Location
San Bernardino, CA
I am looking to switch to turning between centers but I am finding it hard to find the bushings for the various pen kits I use. Anyone making theses bushing that I can contact? TIA

Gary
 
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TBC Bushings

Thanks Dave, but I have visited there sites and they do not have the bushings for a lot of the pen kit I use. I would say the majority of list I use are PSI some Smitty and some Craft Supply.

Gary
 
Gary B. Reeter said:
Thanks Dave, but I have visited there sites and they do not have the bushings for a lot of the pen kit I use. I would say the majority of list I use are PSI some Smitty and some Craft Supply. Gary
Click to expand...

Other than these if penturnersproducts doesn't have it - and there is literally only a couple sets there - you are out of luck. For commercial sellers.

You could contract someone to make them for you who's good with a lathe.
 
Gary B. Reeter said:
I am looking to switch to turning between centers but I am finding it hard to find the bushings for the various pen kits I use. Anyone making theses bushing that I can contact? TIA

Gary
Click to expand...
You can turn TBC with standard bushings. I do it when I don't have the TBC buahings. If you know someone with a metal lathe and a little time they can make them or convert mandrel bushings to TBC. I've had both done.
 
there is a guy on facebook ( cant remember his name but you could post and ask who he is ) on the "pen turners supplies" page that is making them. i have bought a few set and they are all the correct size of what ever kit i get them for
 
ironman123 said:
You can turn between centers and use no bushings. Just use calipers and measure.
Click to expand...

I'm with ironman. If you're gonna TBC what's the point of using bushings? They're handy (and almost required) on the mandrel, but if you're gonna TBC you'll need bushings that will fit inside the tube so everything will remain centered. Again, what's the point of that? Get some calipers and eliminate the bushings.
 
lwalper said:
I'm with ironman. If you're gonna TBC what's the point of using bushings? They're handy (and almost required) on the mandrel, but if you're gonna TBC you'll need bushings that will fit inside the tube so everything will remain centered. Again, what's the point of that? Get some calipers and eliminate the bushings.
Click to expand...

Because measuring constantly is a pain in the butt.

There are also some good reasons to use bushings I think. One is no risk of expanding the brass tube. 2 is having a nice shoulder against the blank material. 3 is much better drive surface with 60 degree bevels on both the centers as bushings.

But in the end- for me - it's a matter of convenience.

I really dislike tbc without bushings.

For those that don't use them, good for you. Not for me. :-)
 
Interesting comments on this thread.
For me it would be like Dan says. Way more surface contact with bushings.
I center drill all my blanks and use the centers to turn them round.
That method provides a lot of surface area as compared to the drive center against the end of the brass tube.
And it slips a lot. I cannot image how much it would slip against the tube.
However, since I have never tried it I am of course just guessing here.
Maybe I'll set one up and see!
 
Dan Masshardt said:
lwalper said:
I'm with ironman. If you're gonna TBC what's the point of using bushings? They're handy (and almost required) on the mandrel, but if you're gonna TBC you'll need bushings that will fit inside the tube so everything will remain centered. Again, what's the point of that? Get some calipers and eliminate the bushings.
Click to expand...

Because measuring constantly is a pain in the butt.

There are also some good reasons to use bushings I think. One is no risk of expanding the brass tube. 2 is having a nice shoulder against the blank material. 3 is much better drive surface with 60 degree bevels on both the centers as bushings.

But in the end- for me - it's a matter of convenience.

I really dislike tbc without bushings.

For those that don't use them, good for you. Not for me. :-)
Click to expand...

Everything Dan said x 2
 
TBC Bushings

I am new to penturning and do all my turning between centers. Rick Herrel taught me a trick to adapt standard bushings to TBC bushings by adding the 60 degree chamfer. I used my Taig lathe for this but one could use any lathe for it with the right drill chuck. What is needed is a center drill and countersink bit (#4 or #5) to add a 60 degree chamfer to the large end of the bushing. See photos for details. Remember to use cutting oil.

My photos got reversed in order but you get the idea. :-) I used a #5 drill and did not go deeper than 2/3 of the face of the bit.





 
Larry Hansen said:
I am new to penturning and do all my turning between centers. Rick Herrel taught me a trick to adapt standard bushings to TBC bushings by adding the 60 degree chamfer. I used my Taig lathe for this but one could use any lathe for it with the right drill chuck. What is needed is a center drill and countersink bit (#4 or #5) to add a 60 degree chamfer to the large end of the bushing. See photos for details. Remember to use cutting oil.

My photos got reversed in order but you get the idea. :-) I used a #5 drill and did not go deeper than 2/3 of the face of the bit.
Click to expand...

That idea is one I have used many times, although it just isn't the same thing, especially if the middle bushing which should be a 2 part bushing is a single part.
 
Mack C. said:
Larry Hansen said:
I am new to penturning and do all my turning between centers. Rick Herrel taught me a trick to adapt standard bushings to TBC bushings by adding the 60 degree chamfer. I used my Taig lathe for this but one could use any lathe for it with the right drill chuck. What is needed is a center drill and countersink bit (#4 or #5) to add a 60 degree chamfer to the large end of the bushing. See photos for details. Remember to use cutting oil.

My photos got reversed in order but you get the idea. :-) I used a #5 drill and did not go deeper than 2/3 of the face of the bit.
Click to expand...

That idea is one I have used many times, although it just isn't the same thing, especially if the middle bushing which should be a 2 part bushing is a single part.
Click to expand...


I agree that altered mandrel bushings are not as nice or solid as those made for BCT work. I only convert mandrel bushings because I do not use or even own a mandrel. I am new at this so theoretically a "middle" bushing that is large enough would need to be cut in two then each side of the cut faced to square it off and then drilled with the 60 degree chamfer to convert each side to BCT.

This is best done on a metal lathe but could be done (again hypothetically) on a good wood lathe by carefully cutting the center bushing (using a hacksaw as a parting tool at a very slow speed) then facing each rough surface flat (with a file) so when the chamfer is added the part will turn true.

I have a supply of PSI delrin bushing blanks that I plan to use for making BCT bushings when I cannot find precision bushings in the size I need. These delrin blanks are designed for shaping on a wood lathe with wood tools. I will do it with my Taig.
 
TBC Bushings

Mack C. said:
Larry Hansen said:
I am new to penturning and do all my turning between centers. Rick Herrel taught me a trick to adapt standard bushings to TBC bushings by adding the 60 degree chamfer. I used my Taig lathe for this but one could use any lathe for it with the right drill chuck. What is needed is a center drill and countersink bit (#4 or #5) to add a 60 degree chamfer to the large end of the bushing. See photos for details. Remember to use cutting oil.

My photos got reversed in order but you get the idea. :-) I used a #5 drill and did not go deeper than 2/3 of the face of the bit.
Click to expand...

That idea is one I have used many times, although it just isn't the same thing, especially if the middle bushing which should be a 2 part bushing is a single part.
Click to expand...


I agree that altered mandrel bushings are not as nice or solid as those made for BCT work. I only convert mandrel bushings because I do not use or even own a mandrel. I am new at this so theoretically a "middle" bushing that is large enough would need to be cut in two then each side of the cut faced to square it off and then drilled with the 60 degree chamfer to convert each side to BCT.

This is best done on a metal lathe but could be done (again hypothetically) on a good wood lathe by carefully cutting the center bushing (using a hacksaw as a parting tool at a very slow speed) then facing each rough surface flat (with a file) so when the chamfer is added the part will turn true.

I have a supply of PSI delrin bushing blanks that I plan to use for making BCT bushings when I cannot find precision bushings in the size I need. These delrin blanks are designed for shaping on a wood lathe with wood tools. I will do it with my Taig.
 
Timbo said:
Dan Masshardt said:
lwalper said:
I'm with ironman. If you're gonna TBC what's the point of using bushings? They're handy (and almost required) on the mandrel, but if you're gonna TBC you'll need bushings that will fit inside the tube so everything will remain centered. Again, what's the point of that? Get some calipers and eliminate the bushings.
Click to expand...

Because measuring constantly is a pain in the butt.

There are also some good reasons to use bushings I think. One is no risk of expanding the brass tube. 2 is having a nice shoulder against the blank material. 3 is much better drive surface with 60 degree bevels on both the centers as bushings.

But in the end- for me - it's a matter of convenience.

I really dislike tbc without bushings.

For those that don't use them, good for you. Not for me. :-)
Click to expand...

Everything Dan said x 2
Click to expand...
So far I've not had a problem expanding the tube :rolleyes: -- maybe someday :frown:. The blanks occasionally slip a little, but seem to drive OK to get the job done.
 
lwalper said:
So far I've not had a problem expanding the tube :rolleyes: -- maybe someday :frown:. The blanks occasionally slip a little, but seem to drive OK to get the job done.
Click to expand...

I'm sure you'll continue to be fine if you're careful. I prob wouldn't be. I tend to tighten a little more than I prob should.
 
You should double check your usual kits against the bushing chart in the library there may be a good chance that even though one is called an X bushing for company A it might be useable as a Y bushing for company B and you could find a suitable TBC bushing from Classic Nib . Just a thought.
 
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I'm not overly sure that I fully understand all of the ado over bushings....they are relatively cheap and last quite a long time. TBC bushings are a little higher initial outlay but still don't add a lot of cost to a finished pen unless you're only going to do one or two.
 
Smitty37 said:
I'm not overly sure that I fully understand all of the ado over bushings....they are relatively cheap and last quite a long time. TBC bushings are a little higher initial outlay but still don't add a lot of cost to a finished pen unless you're only going to do one or two.
Click to expand...
Hi Smitty; Now I haven't gone back through the posts on this thread, but I don't recall any discussion with respect to their cost.

The discussion I recall is availability now that johnnycnc has slowed down his production. Or did I miss something along the way?
 
Mack C. said:
Smitty37 said:
I'm not overly sure that I fully understand all of the ado over bushings....they are relatively cheap and last quite a long time. TBC bushings are a little higher initial outlay but still don't add a lot of cost to a finished pen unless you're only going to do one or two.
Click to expand...
Hi Smitty; Now I haven't gone back through the posts on this thread, but I don't recall any discussion with respect to their cost.

The discussion I recall is availability now that johnnycnc has slowed down his production. Or did I miss something along the way?
Click to expand...
That was a general comment, I had already posted (here or somewhere else to the same OP) regarding availability Including providing an IAP member name of a guy who makes them.
 
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