taping bottle stoppers

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sgimbel

sgimbel

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2008
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Location
Round Rock, Texas
Anyone have any suggestions for easily tapping a bottle stopper besides brute force. I have MS and very little strength left in the hands. After tapping a couple BS's my arms are pretty worn out. I assume a drill is to fast to get a descent tap and keep your holding hand attached at the wrist. Or am I just stuck, tap a couple wait for recovery and tap a couple more?
 
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Scott,

Are you using a T shaped tap wrench? If so, a longer t-bar will give more leverage and make it easier. Also, what size tap are you using, along with drill size?

Tom
 
What kind of tap holder are you using? If you have one with the "T" handle, once you get the tap started you can use a small diameter pipe as torque leverage. The longer the pipe the less force needed to turn the tap. You can hold the stopper blank either in a vise or in a chuck on the lathe.
 
There are two approaches -- one uses machinist tables for 75% thread depth or better for drill bits and more brute force and horsepower to get the threads cut. (long handle tap holder help here)

Some (see Ruth Niles Home Page) use a larger bit and cut more shallow threads and threading is easier. Ruth sells a MT mandrel that threads right into the block. Ruth also sells nice stainless stopper blanks that come without threads for attachment with adhesives --

http://www.torne-lignum.com/


She is an accomplished turner and knows what this is all about --
 
I'm drilling a 5/16" hole and using a bottle stopper tap from Rockler. I made a round handle about 2 1/4" for gripping. I'm also having a little trouble getting a straight tap. I end up with a 3/8" tapped hole which screws on tight (real good) to the PSI BS mandrel.
 
Ruth suggests "Use a 23/64" or 9mm bit and drill the hole 5/8" deep;"

The threads will not be as deep, but will be adequate -- and the tapping will be easier. Look at how she puts the tap in the tailstock and uses the lathe to align and tap the stopper.

http://www.torne-lignum.com/make_stoppers.html

This can be easier --- and bottle stoppers are not a high force item (unless you are trying to fit the stopper into the box spout.)
 
There are three standard tapers on taps -- called "Taper", "Plug", and "Bottom". Most sell the "Plug" version for stoppers as it cuts threads most of the way to the tip -- but can be more difficult to start.

You can get a 3/8 by 16 thread taper tap at most any auto parts store (NAPA etc) and use it to get an easy start for the threads. It will hit bottom before full depth threads are cut, but following it with the "plug" taper will be easier (called chasing threads).

I suspect the larger holes will make it lots easier!!!
 
hey Tom -- just getting Ruth Niles' stopper mandrel will cost lots less and make it easier than the other gear --
 
KenV said:
hey Tom -- just getting Ruth Niles' stopper mandrel will cost lots less and make it easier than the other gear --
Click to expand...
Ken,
I have Ruth's mandrel. I still use the gear I posted, because it's easier (agreed, more expensive).

Tom
 
I am not at all sure that a long handled tap driver will be an asset to Scott. Have a relative with weak hands and balancing one of those would be a severe challenge for her.

Scott -- you have several approachs -- your call on how to best get the threads cut.
 
KenV said:
I am not at all sure that a long handled tap driver will be an asset to Scott. Have a relative with weak hands and balancing one of those would be a severe challenge for her.

Scott -- you have several approachs -- your call on how to best get the threads cut.
Click to expand...

Ken, I dont think you understand what I proposed. You put the tap in the long handle wrench, put the blank in the lathe, put the tap guide between the tail stock and the tap/wrench. Then you simply rotate the wrench while the tap guide delivers consistent, straight pressure to the tap. The only gotcha is the "radius" of the wrench, must be less than the "swing" of the lathe - or you can tap 1/2 turn, then rotate the headstock 1/2 turn and repeat. Picture here: http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Projects/Tap_guide_pc/tap_guide_info.htm
Hope this helps.
Tom
 
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Folks you all have given me some great ideas. I tried the 23/64" bit and it taped easy but didn't seem to make hardly any threads BUT I never tried to screw in the mandrel because the threads cut were very shallow. The drill bit came with the mandrel and a lot of people here said go to the 5/16". I'm going to go out and experiment and I'll let you know. THANK YOU everybody for the tips and help.
 
I have never turned a stopper, but why not chuck the tap in a drill chuck on a taper in the tail stock with the stopper on the head stock, advance the tap and slowly turn the head stock chuck by hand with a bar. Not real fast, but it should cut the threads in the stopper. Then simple manually back the head stock to remove the tap.

What have I missed here?
Charles
 
ctubbs said:
What have I missed here?
Charles
Click to expand...

Charles, What you suggest will work. It has been my experience that coordinating the "push" on the tap, with the "Turn" of the tap (or blank) is a little difficult. The tap guide that I suggested does that, by adding a spring loaded push on the tap, while you concentrate on the turn.

Tom
 
I tried using the 23/64" drill bit that came with the PSI mandrell. It looks like it makes no threads but I was pleasantly surprized that it screwed on the mandrel tight. I figured it would strip the threads and spin. We will see when I try to spin one. I'm going to try to cast some yet tonight. Thank you all again. By using the 23/64" bit the threading was pretty easy.
 
KenV said:
I am not at all sure that a long handled tap driver will be an asset to Scott. Have a relative with weak hands and balancing one of those would be a severe challenge for her.

Scott -- you have several approachs -- your call on how to best get the threads cut.
Click to expand...

The T-handle is a major help. The doctors removed a couple of bines from my right hand a few years ago & my grip is very poor a T-handle lets you use your hands differently than a round handle.
 
sgimbel said:
I tried using the 23/64" drill bit that came with the PSI mandrell. It looks like it makes no threads but I was pleasantly surprized that it screwed on the mandrel tight. I figured it would strip the threads and spin. We will see when I try to spin one. I'm going to try to cast some yet tonight. Thank you all again. By using the 23/64" bit the threading was pretty easy.
Click to expand...

If you feel like the threads are weak put a few drops of ca on the threads and turn it around to cover the threads. The ca will make the threads hard as a rock once dried.
 
You might also try one of the ratcheting T-handle tap holders; they seem to work quite well and help alleviate the strain. PSI has one well suited to this particular task and HF sells them in various sizes to hold both large and small taps.
 
Scott,

Another approach I use is to put a threaded insert in the stopper. I use one that I thread in but they make inserts that you drill and press/tap in. these are available in an assortment of sizes. and you would not have to tap anything. Just my two cents worth. Hope this helps.

Scott A.
 
Inserts and the Grizzly tool are both great ideas. Grizzly is 2 expensive for what I turn but the inserts would sure make it easy. Thanks all.
 
One additional thought is to use a lubricant on your tap. Bar soap works well and stays dry. This will make it much easier to tap. If you will PM your address. I will send you some inserts and a tool to make these much easier to install.

Scott
 
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Scott Amerson said:
One additional thought is to use a lubricant on your tap. Bar soap works well and stays dry. This will make it much easier to tap.
Click to expand...

In the chapter on chucking in Ernie Conover's book, he talks about using a tap to make wooden faceplates, glue blocks and other mounting devices. He mentions that putting a little mineral oil in the hole before tapping makes the process a bit easier.

However, the problem with using any lubricant is that they will interfere with adhesives later. Some people (there is a thread in the forum on this subject) prefer to put a little glue on the threads of the stopper insert before screwing it into the completed turning. The glue may not adhere to the turning if you have used a lubricant although it will still cure in the space between the metal threads and the threaded turning and strengthen the stopper.
 
Scott, I am in wheelchair and I have a problemwith getting leverage on my lathe to use the tap so what I do is put the blank in the chuck and use a Jacobs chuck and put it in the tailstock with a drill bit and drill the hole. Next I change out the drill bit and put in the tap. Use your left hand and use the handcrank on the headstock to turn the blank while your right hand is turning the handcrank on the tailstock to advance your tap. Be sure to clean out the shavings from the tap. Watch this YouTube video I saw on turning bottle stoppers. This is a video by Bob Ham and he does alot of videos on woodturning. He is a good turner and can learn a bunch from wathcing his vids. Here is a ling to the vid I'm talking about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJoSl-lbh7U
This is only segment 1 of a few that shows him making a bottle stopper. Not sure which segment it is whenhe taps the stopper but spend 15-20 min and check it out. Hope this helps you out.
 
I also agree with Scott. I might just take his opinion to heart and use it myself instead of the way I'm doing. Seems a lot easier and no hassle.
 
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