suggestions for finish

[bjbear76]

I'm making a desk pen set out of buckeye burl. The pen is finished with Pens Plus (semi-gloss finish). I want the base to have a similar finish. I've experimented with a spray lacquer, but I didn't like the way it darkened the wood. What would you suggest?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[jttheclockman]

I'm making a desk pen set out of buckeye burl. The pen is finished with Pens Plus (semi-gloss finish). I want the base to have a similar finish. I've experimented with a spray lacquer, but I didn't like the way it darkened the wood. What would you suggest?

Thanks,
Bill

Bill

I do not know what type lacquer you used or what but lacquer does not add color to wood. I will say this that any finish weather waterbased or oil will add depth and look darker because you are applying over a dry wood. Try using a waterbase finish. Either that, use the same finish on the base. Nothing wrong with that. Post photo when done.

 

[JimB]

I've never used Pen Plus but I don't see any reason not to use it on the base if you want the same look.

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I've never used Pen Plus but I don't see any reason not to use it on the base if you want the same look.

Pens plus is a friction finish and much of the final effect is achieved using heat that accompanies the friction achieved on the lathe, in my understanding.

My own preference would be multiple coats of danish oil to the desired effect. Then either buff it or use something like rennasaince wax.

Or use a wipe on poly then cut back to the desired sheen if needed.

 

[bjbear76]

Dan, I may try that. My other thought was to buff it on the buffing station with carnauba wax?

 

[Dan Masshardt]

Dan, I may try that. My other thought was to buff it on the buffing station with carnauba wax?

that is good but id put some oil on it first overnight. You could just buff though.

 

[bjbear76]

Would walnut oil work as well?

 

[jttheclockman]

Would walnut oil work as well?

Bill

You can get a fine finish with the walnut oil but the key will be to sand the base with at least 400 to 600 grit paper. You need to close the pores.

I always use Danish oil because it is a mixture of Polyurethane and linseed oil or tung oils and dries to a nice low sheen. I polish just by wiping with a cotton cloth or sometimes I will put on my polishing wheel. This looks great with woods that are oily such as Rosewoods or Zebra wood. I use it on red oak also. It will add a bit of yellow color to clear woods. But to me that warms the wood up.

here are a few examples. The base is just polished.



Here is one with oak and Zebra wood

 

[Dan Masshardt]

I think john has a good method. Walnut oil can work as wiell but might need a little more effort. The other agents in danish oil will get you a finish more like the pens plus.

The nice thing wth oils too is you can send with them too to fill in any pores left.

 

[TonyL]

I believe PP contains walnut oil. As Dan says heat is the key. Google Ron Brown pen plus and watch the video. I also use his micro abrasive wax - again, heat is the key with that too. I don't find the PP finish to last more than two or three months when the pen is handled regulatory. I apply about six coats, plus the wax.

 

[ed4copies]

IF heat is needed, just put a pad on your orbital sander (buff pad) and don't move it too fast---instant HEAT.

 

[jttheclockman]

One other factor to keep in mind is a base does not get handled as much as a pen. My items do not get handled either like a pen does. Good luck.

 

[bjbear76]

Thanks for all the input. I'll be sure to post pictures when completed.

On a side note, I seldom use CA finish on my pens. I really like the results I get with Pens Plus