substitute CA accelerator

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Would anyone consider using this (DNA) as a complete and fully equivalent replacement for purpose designed accelerator? After all, DNA is readily available locally and is cheap by comparison. If your answer is yes, it would be helpful to learn your reasonings in support. Conversely, if this is only a poor substitute, I would like to hear your opinion and reasonings also.
As a related comment, I have mostly discontinued use of accelerator for CA finish work due to associated problems that it sometimes introduces. Having a "turning" plus a "finishing" lathe, I just time-share between the two, doing other tasks while letting coats of CA dry naturally (w/o use of accelerator).
 
I looked into alternatives and was surprised to find not much. Thanks for sharing.

I bit the bullet and just bought a gallon of accelerant and, well, I can't see needing to worry about that for a while now :).
 
SteveG said:
Would anyone consider using this (DNA) as a complete and fully equivalent replacement for purpose designed accelerator? After all, DNA is readily available locally and is cheap by comparison. If your answer is yes, it would be helpful to learn your reasonings in support. Conversely, if this is only a poor substitute, I would like to hear your opinion and reasonings also.
As a related comment, I have mostly discontinued use of accelerator for CA finish work due to associated problems that it sometimes introduces. Having a "turning" plus a "finishing" lathe, I just time-share between the two, doing other tasks while letting coats of CA dry naturally (w/o use of accelerator).
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I am going to try this and will switch if it works for me. I can not stand the smell of regular accelerator and get sinus infections if not wearing my respirator. My only concern is that I prefer aerosol and have crappy luck with the pump and DNA will have to go in a pump.
 
Jamie, there was a group buy a few years ago for a spray unit that you fill with your desired liquid and then charge with air pressure. Well made units, and quite a few were bought. I think Monty was the buy coordinator. This is probably just what you will want if the DNA works out.
 
SteveG said:
Jamie, there was a group buy a few years ago for a spray unit that you fill with your desired liquid and then charge with air pressure. Well made units, and quite a few were bought. I think Monty was the buy coordinator. This is probably just what you will want if the DNA works out.
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Thanks Steve. I actually have one I picked up from Exotics last year. I can use that to play around with.
 
This is no shock what so ever.

home depot DNA:
45-50% ethyl alcohol
50-55% methanol
1-4% methyl isobutyl ketone

When you understand that CA cures via PH levels then everything makes sense.
 
We were filling a void on a pen with some inlace granules. I just misted the infill with the DNA and it set right up without foaming. The Center for the Blind is on a tight budget, so if this continues to work for them, it will save them quite a bit of money compared to buying accelerator.
 
CA accelerator works because there is a stabilizer in all CA products that is a very mild acidic element. This acid inhibits polymerization of the CA and keeps it in the liquid form.

When the acid is neutralized, thus causing a PH shift towards NEUTRAL, then polymerization occurs. When the PH level is shifted higher to the alkaline levels then you start getting rapid polymerization. The faster the PH shift the more rapid the cure happens, thus the hotter the reaction and the more brittle the end product is.

A controlled shift on a weaker level will cause a slower polymerization and less heat build up. This is why shop towels will smoke, the alkaline factor is to high on the towels and starts the fire pyramid cycle and the CA boils into vapor.


So, from this we know that any acid neutralizing products will work as will any product that has a neutral to a very very weak alkaline will also work.

However. ... Moisture content that is in the glue from imposed or induced will cause cloudy spots to occur, so any product that is free from moisture, hydrophobic in nature would be the better product to use.

The pH ethanol and all other alcohols is 7, which is neutral.

Hope this helps.
 
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Sharon -- the dark side of alcohol is that it will take on moisture easily. Fresh from the sealed can, the moisture content is low. As it sits where there is contact with humidity, it will pick up some water.
 
The main reason I use an aerosol spray versus pump spray is that the pump spray usually disperses larger drops and those have always been identified as a potential cause of white spots. Aerosol sprays only need a small amount of spray of fine mist to cause quicker curing.
Just a thought.
gordon
 
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