Steel Wool against CA question

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wiset1

wiset1

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Okay, so I've done a glass CA finish on every single one of my pens until today and as such I'm left with a question. I started by soaking the final turn in thin CA, then put four coats of medium to fill grain voids. once cured I put steel wool to it :eek: resulting in a satin finished look. Trust me, the pen called for it and once my kit arrives I'll take pictures and post it, but now to the question.

Question: If I've basically stabilized the wood with CA before removing the gloss off the surface, will the wood still be protected against the air and minor moisture?

This is new ground for me so I thought I would ask the question and see what comes out of it.

:biggrin: Thanks
 
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"Danielson" TRUST YOUR INSTINCTS! From what I've seen your choices have served you well.

Besides, making thousands of the same old shiney things gets BORING, doesn't it?

Folks have been "stabilizing" in CA for a while, but EVERY technique is different.

Personally, I CAN'T wait to see the new product!
 
Thanks Andy. I've seen where people use the Steel Wool to take the shine off of bowls so I have to guess that the wood is still safe, just missing the glare. The pen started off as a segment idea, but when it was turned it looked like something else. Not a huge thing, but still kind of cool looking. I will say that it was a pain in the butt from the start, but it could have been the Black Palm I used.
 
I've used steel wool and it works fine. The trick with steel wool is to use "little pieces". A full steel wool pad + a turning lathe is a safety issue... DAMHIKT:)

a +/- 1000 grit Abranet screen is easier to use and I think produces similar results?
 
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Basic rule is: Wood will always take on or loose moisture...always. No amount of anything will seal wood completely.



Can't wait to see the photo's though!?!?!?







Scott (nothing is absolutely airtight) B
 
Thanks everyone, I'll drive on with it then! Hope my kits come in today. I opted for the free shipping from PSI so lets see how long it takes. Perhaps today...?
 
Tim, I just did a small demo on this very subject for my local turning club. I'd go ahead and do my full CA finish like any other pen. MM all the way up to 12000 and then hit it with the 0000 steel wool. USE A SMALL PIECE! Like Andy mentioned, that stuff can get grabbed by the lathe in a nanosecond and it will pull your hand in before you can let go....trust me (happened during the demo...gotta show safety:redface:). It'll knock off that gloss and you'll end up with your satin finish. Stick fast has come out with a satin CA polish as well. It puts on a bit of a shine, but nothing like the full gloss of other polishes.

Full CA finish and polish:



Satin CA finish:

 
There are just certain woods that scream for a satin finish. I do this as well in the way Brooks describes. I do the steel wool rubbing lightly by hand though. I really like the look. I use it mainly on the woods that have a high oil content and darker grains.

Once you start working with the 0000 steel wool, make sure you have a little drawer to put it in and keep it away from your grinder - it pretty flammable stuff. Great survival piece if you need to start a fire when stranded on an island! : ) I know you were greatly concerned about that! : )

Martin

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Off topic: Brooks - Are those pens done on a stock kit or are they custom? What kit if they are stock?
 
Jonathon, Thanks for the info and the great pics! This has put my mind at ease about what I was going for and you've already seen the finished blanks...still waiting for PSI to get my kits to me...FREE shipping was just a turd dressed up as a princess.

Martin, it's great to know that you do this as well! When you have some of the top designers on the IAP doing the steel wool...well, I'm sure my blanks will be fine, ha ha ha. I ended up soaking the wood with thin CA and taking it all the way down with the wool. It looks pretty slick so I'm happy with it now.

Thanks everyone for the feedback!
 
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