Stabilizing Solution

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Imported poll question missed, please edit

  • Minwax Wood Hardener

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Pentacryl Wood Stabilizer

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Polyurethane with or without thinner

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Polyacrylic with or without thinner

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Plexi /acetone mix

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Other - Please explain

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    0
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Tanner

Tanner

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Joined
May 17, 2006
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Location
Peoria, Arizona, USA.
What are you using to stabilize blanks? If you use polyurethane or polyacrylic and you use thinner with it, please explain what the percentages are and what type of thinner. If you use plexi, where do you get it? I saw Don used a 50/50 mix of Elmers glue and water awhile back. Has anyone else tried that? Thank you in advance for your help.
 
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I've seen Titebond Polyurethane Glue at Rockler. Would that be the ancient Chinese secret additive?[;)] I also see Gorilla glue is a polyurethane glue.[?]
 
I am in the "OTHER" camp. I use CA glue. On really soft and punky wood, I soak it in a 50/50 mixture of Elmer's Glue and water. This works good enough for me. I don't see my ever using anything else. Sometimes I will use Titebdy glue because it adds an amber color to the wood after it has dried and aged for awhile.
 
It has to be expensive stabilizing with CA. I had a crosscut Spalted Maple blank that was sure to fall apart, so I soaked it with CA and turned it and soaked it again and turned more then soaked it a last time. Besides the strong CA smell coming from the blank, I must have used 1/4 of my bottle of thin CA on one blank. I had a mask on, but my eyes were even watering from the strong smell. I also just set up a vacuum chamber and want to stabilize that way.
 
I'm trying Varithane crystal clear diamond wood finish. I think it is similar to the Minwax Polycrylic. Not sure how long to leave it under vacuum, a couple of days I guess.
 
Tim, I use oil base Varithane with 30 to 50 persent mineral spirits with the vacuum. Hold the vacuum for about a hour them blead it off slow and repet untill you get no more boububles.
Bob
 
I have used a solution of MEK [methyl ethyl keytone] with clean white styrofoam. I add the styrofoam to the MEK until no more is dissolved. I then drill my blanks and pre-turn them down a bit. I then cover the blanks in the MEK solution and pull a vacuum of 5-10 pounds of vacuum for several minutes to an hour ... any more and the MEK is "boiled" off way to fast to allow a complete soaking throughout the blank's walls. I remove the blanks, re-mill the ends and inside of the tubes, and then turn to shape. The MEK is available from major paint stores, the styrofoam from common packing materials. Colored styrofoam I have not tried. The MEK is VERY volitile and the vapor is dangerous to your health. The vapor will also attack any plastic nearby as well as many finishes on furniture - proper ventilation is a MUST. Be aware that MEK boils rapidly under even a mild vacuum, so an overflow is possible. Plact your holding jar in a larger casn to catch the overflow. Practice will dictate what you need to watch out for. Just DO NOT BREATH the MEK fumes.

Fred
 
I use thin CA like most because it is quick and easy, sometimes minwax wood hardner because it's convenient, and I'm now trying a Plexyglass/acetone mix which seems to be working fine. I like it a bit on the thin side but boy do you go through te acetone that way!
 
I have used CA for the most part but am in the process of setting up a vacuum system for using Pentacryl and trying other things. CA fumes can be overpowering, particularly when it reacts and starts to smoke.
 
Eldee, I might suggest that you read the comments throughout the FORUM concerning the use of Pentacryl. Most turners have problems with applying finishes AFTER the use of Pentacryl.

Pentacryl is used to prevent or hinder the checking of green wood, whereas, acrylic stabilization is used on wood that is 10% or less in moisture content.

Besides the finishing problems, Pentacryl is not what I would consider to be anywhere near or even similar to acrylic stabilization. I find the acrylic stabilization to be much more preferable and a lot more "friendly." I personally would say that the use of Pentacryl is a wood "treatment" and that acrylic impregnation is a most permanent "stabilization." The end results are not even close.

These are just my thoughts on the subject. Please let us hear of your efforts and results.

Fred
 
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