Stabilization "spinning cycle"...!

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robutacion

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Aug 6, 2009
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Hi peoples

This is an issue that would have any interest, in my view, to those stabilizing a fair amount of blanks, particularly the very soft woods that do absorb a lot of Juice and that, regardless of how much time you leave them draining, they still retain a lot more juice than they require and subsequently, create a big mess when curing them in the oven.

Wrapping the blanks if foil, may keep the excess juice inside but, any small hole in the foil and juice gets in places that should in that oven, particularly in the hot elements, creating a lot a smoke, hardening is hard places to reach/clean and creating a tremendous risk of fire, believe me, Cactus juice when ignites, it burns hot and fast, I had my first oven fire, a couple of weeks ago, only put down with one of the 4 x 1kg powder fire extinguishers I have set near the working areas.

The reason of the fire (Cactus Juice ignition), was caused but 3 crucial elements, firstly the issue of putting in the oven blanks that are too saturated with the juice but no longer drains any excess, the fact that, I was doing double dying while stabilizing and I need to set the first colour before I would stabilize again with then second colour.

The wood was the #70 Coral tree wood but, I have far too many woods that will suck Cactus Juice as this wood does...! I need to prevent the excess juice to harden in the blanks outside surfaces as that would have to be sanded down and completely block/clog the wood cell to allow any soaking on the second colour so, I stacked the blanks in the oven, with a small gap in between them and use 5mm square strips of wood as separators on the layers stacked above ( 5 layers in total). I made sure I had the drip tray clean and in its place (just above the bottom heating element)...!

So far so good so, the idea was to allow the excess Juice to drip off the wood and into the tray underneath, the excess juice from the top layers would simply run over the blanks underneath that therefore would drip again and fall into the tray, eventually...!

Looking at all this, you won't see any problems, right...??? Sure, neither did I, I had done this many times before without any problems HOWEVER, and that is what caused the fire, I wanted to give the blanks/juice a quick heat, close to the 90°Celsius it requires to cure but, instead of leaving them there for 90 minutes, I only wanted to create a "partial" setting of the juice, just enough to not blend with the second dye colour...!

So far so good, you would think so, what caused the fire...??? Well, here is where I made a big mistake, I decided to turn the thermostat knob to the max. to heat the oven inside a lot quicker and then turn it down to the 90 degrees, I had one of the blanks with the first colour that had been cured as I wanted to turn it into one of my round samples, and finished with CA to see it the blank with the one colour would look good enough...!

I trusted my mind to alert me that the oven was turned to max. heat, 5 minutes or so later but, when I started working on the sample, I totally forgot about the oven. I was only about 3 meters from the oven but, I couldn't see it from where I was so, some time later, 10 minutes maybe, I started smelling something burning, and looking towards the direction where the oven was, I could see lots of smoke, was then when I realize what I just did and stepping towards it to turn it off, I saw that flames were coming through the top gap of the glass door.

I knew better than open the door and allow more oxygen to feed the flames so, I turned around and within 1 meter, I reached for the closest fire extinguisher, open the oven door and gave it a good squirt, aimed at the oven's base as I can see the origin of the flames. It went out but re-ignited 2 more times before it was out, completely. I then reach for the button to switch if off, if it had went any further, it would activate the safety switch I have in the shed, before it would go to the main power meter box...!

At this point, you would ask, what has all this to do with the thread title..???

Well, I could have went straight to the reason I made this "jig" and, ignore the fire fact however, I though that, it could be important to make you folks aware that, Cactus Juice does ignite, in certain circumstances, these were my circumstances because, I had too much juice in the wood...!

I have actually talked to Curtis about this idea to remove the excess resin from the wood to save on the product, using the normal stabilizing jobs/woods with great capability to soak far more that what is needed...!
The test I done then, was using a small container with half a dozen blanks in it and I was surprised with the amount of juice that come out of them, after the blanks were draining for almost 24 hours.

My main goal was to save Cactus Juice, the cost of importing each gallon from the USA to Australia, is considerable and I use a lot of this product so, I needed to be able to save some, where it could be saved, without compromising any of the results.

A couple of days ago, I cut some "Fig" wood from a small fig tree I had removed about 1 year ago, the main trunk and some of the larger limbs were taken to my wood storage paddock, and the rest I took home, some processed it straight away, the rest was put under cover in one of the sheds.

The fig wood that I had under the roof, endup in the firewood pile, the little wood borer bugs, totally ruin it, was useless so, when I went to the paddock a few days ago, I saw that the fig wood I had there, was not contaminated from the borers but, it had cracked pretty bad with lots of spalting in the process so, I decided to bring it home and process it.

Most of the blanks cut, were only any good for casting however, they were just amazingly beautiful but a little soft so, I decided to stabilize them. There are nearly a couple of hundred blanks to stabilize so, I though that was time for me to put the washing machine drum spinning idea, into practice...!

I needed something fairly large, the vacuum chamber has a capacity of about 80 pen blanks, and so does the oven so, I need to make something where I could fit a full load from the vacuum chamber. Looking around the only thing that it seems to be suitable, was a resin empty 20lt drum so, a few modifications and I was ready to test it for the first time.

I did, and at a speed about 500rpm, the drum spin and spin for about 15 minutes, after that I stopped it with the "bung/plug" down and let the excess resin drain out, about 1/4 of a litre was saved from one full vacuum chamber stabilizing session, that is 1/4 of a litre that I would have to scrape or sand out of the blanks or, let it run into the oven drip tray and see it being turned into a solid useless material that had to be scraped out from the tray, never an easy job...!

OK, it may look and even be a bit "primitive" but, this is what I had to work with, I can do better, with better materials, would it work any better, I doubt...!:wink::biggrin:

I had the blanks that come out of the spinning cycle, cooked in the oven. without ant foil paper but only, with the wooden sticks as spacers, 90 minutes later, I was there (evening) to get them out and see if was any resin on the tray, not a single drop however, some blanks got stuck to the wooden sticks but, they all come out fairly easy with the aid of a knife blade so, this lot is ready to be cast, with 2 more lots to follow, today and tomorrow...!

I hope you learnt something from it, any questions...??? just shoot...!:wink:

Cheers
George
 

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Mr Vic

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Aug 11, 2008
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Ingenious...simple and effective...Bet Penn State will be selling one within three months....

You keep amazing us George...
 

robutacion

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
6,514
Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Ingenious...simple and effective...Bet Penn State will be selling one within three months....

You keep amazing us George...

Thanks, often simple things are the most effective, huh..??:)

As for PSI copying the idea and make it something everyone can buy and use and not costing a fortune, I'm OK with that, as I'm sure, this has been done before...!

You know how it goes, "necessity is the mother of invention...!!":biggrin:

Cheers
George
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
699
Location
Leicestershire, U.K
Hi George
I can understand your frustration of wasting juice as importing it from the U.S to the U.K is very expensive too.
I can understand letting the resin drip out but wonder whether spinning it out is going to reduce the weight/hardness of the finished blanks, have you done a side by side weight comparison?
 

robutacion

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
6,514
Location
Australia - SA Adelaide Hills
Hi George
I can understand your frustration of wasting juice as importing it from the U.S to the U.K is very expensive too.
I can understand letting the resin drip out but wonder whether spinning it out is going to reduce the weight/hardness of the finished blanks, have you done a side by side weight comparison?

Hi George,

A very good question and one that I have an answer to, as I just spent part of my day today, studying and testing the results of the spinning excess juice from the wood.

It was my believe that, the moderate spinning (500 rpm) against speeds that can reach 2,000rpm or more, will only "force" the wood to expel what the wood cells can't keep. This has to do with the "saturation point" and G Forces phenomenon.

In theory, the rotation will exert a measurable force compressing the wood cells, the softer the wood, the less force is require on the compression. The calculations of the tumbler/drum diameter Vs the rotation speed that in this case is about 500rpm, represents a G Force of 2. The calculations also show that, doubling the speed will double the G forces.

This formula I already knew and therefore, helped me to consider the spinning option to resolve the Juice wastage. It will be important to note that, this waste is more pronounced with the very softer woods, the softer the wood, the more waste it will produce so spinning of the wood, won't produce much juice savings, if the blanks/wood, is left to drain for some hours, I like the overnight idea...!

Now, in practice, and that is what I done today, was to verify if the spun blanks endup with sufficient juice and or, the same hardening properties as the blanks (same wood) that were cured without spinning.

From other tests I performed on woods of all types in the past, throughout the years, you will require at least 6 G's to make a green wood blank at 28% HC to bleed/expel water, too fresh green wood, has a concentration of approx 39% MC, this is the calibration readings of the common MC gauges, that means that, the wood is basically saturated with water and that, the wood cells are too open/relaxed in within a short period of time from being cut (tree).

With exposure to air at average temps of 21°C the green/wet wood will equalize to a core 34%MC within 14 days, at this time the wood cells start to close, increasing its hardness.

Coming back to my tests today, these are the results I've found;

*- The spinning did not reduce the amount of "usable" juice within the wood blank.

*- The weight of both stabilized blanks (with and without spinning) after cured, were very equal.

*- The softness/hardness of both blanks, measure with the same instrument at 4 similar locations, were identical.

These were the results of the various tests, and basically have shown that, for you to basically "suck-out" the Cactus Juice out of the wood, you would required over 6 G's, even then, only a percentage of the Juice would come out, the viscosity and chemical composition of this product, would mean that, some of it would stay attached to the wood cells, not like water would do, some of the reasons have to do with the Cactus Juice resilience to evaporation.

The tests were performed on 2 equal/similar blanks, from wood species to size and weight, that was measured/noted at an average of 15gr. each and, for the ease of reference, lets call them, blank A and blank B.

Blank A will be referred to the blanks that was processed/stabilized following the normal processes while blank B was the one that I made all the changes/spinning, etc.

Both blanks after full vacuum for 4 hours, weight approx. 70gr. each, after 2 hours of draining, after that, I put blank B in the spinner and the blank be was wrapped in foil paper waiting to be cured in the oven together with blank A after spun...!

After 15 minutes of spinning, the blank B was weight at 55gr. and then was put in the oven together with blank A for 90 minutes at 90° celsius.

After cured, blank weight 63gr. and blank B at 50gr.

Blank B had no excess dry juice on its surface while blank A had a couple of mm or more of dry juice attached to the blank's surfaces. At this point, I put both blanks through the drum sander to make sure the sizes were the same.

At this point, I weight both blanks and blank A weighed approx 48gr. and blank B at approx. 48gr

The softness/hardness tests were performed after the blanks were sanded and weight.

So, the tests results produce very much the results I was expection and a confirmation/validation that, blanks that soak lots of Cactus Juice, won't drain by its own, the excess juice soaked through the vacuum process.

The difference in between the blank A at 70gr and blank B at 55gr just before they were both put in the oven for curing, is where the difference is in the economy side of things, it represents about 21% of less juice used, there will be a small amount of energy use to spin the drum for 15 minutes but I believe, that cost can not compare to the value of the Cactus Juice saved in the process. It may not look much but, for someone that uses dozens of gallons each year, the savings are considerable, in my view...!

Remember about what I said in regards to the wood type/softness (but not only) you are stabilizing, I have very soft wood that won't allow much soaking at all, while other softwoods, drink juice like a Camel.

These are the results of my tests, I saw no need to take any pics of the process as I didn't also wanted the pics to make everything confusing in the process so, I kept it simple.

As for the "validity/truthfulness" of what I said, well that is up to you to accept it or not, I will invite you to reproduce these tests, with one of your own soft woods, I would most certainly, like the idea to be able to compare date...!

While I was perfectly aware that, some questions would be raised to the effectiveness of the spinning Vs Juice savings, I had my own questions and need to confirm my thoughts and curiosity so, I would perform the tests regardless...!

Well, I hope that, I answered your question and that, you learnt something, I sure did...!:biggrin:

Cheers
George
 

NittanyLion

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Feb 3, 2013
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804
Location
State College PA
I had my first(and hopefully only) oven fire several months ago. I was lucky not to burn the house down. It really does make you re-think your process. Mine was caused by a hole in the foil, leaking into the elements.

I no longer cook my blanks indoors. I also stopped using foil. I just let them set for several hours, and I made a pan to catch all drippings, just in case. It works well, but still have some loss. Overall, the blanks are much more presentable, and no sawing or sanding off resin. I think I'll stay away from the giant tumbler, but love your idea and ability to solve a problem. Keep us posted on the results after turning these!
 
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