Spraying Deft brushing lacquer

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jeffj13

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I've grown tired of all the waste spraying lacquer from a rattle can, so I purchased an airbrush. Based on another thread, I purchased a can of gloss Deft brushing lacquer, which I plan in thinning 50/50 (subject to change based on performance), prior to spraying.

The rattle can instructions called for spraying several light coats 1 minute apart, wait 30 minutes and repeat until the desired finish is achieved.

Would I use the same technique for airbrushing the Deft that I used with the rattle can?

If not, how should I apply the Deft?

Thanks for your help.

jeff
 
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So you have been using and liking the output of Deft lacquer but dont like the what ? Im confused. If your spraying the can stuff your still spraying and will have all the same cons as the rattle can.No ? By diluting it, wont you be lessing its properties and will just have to use twice as much ?

Dave
 
Dave,

The rattle can throws a spray about 10" wide. Therefore, only a small portion of the lacquer is "hitting" the pen and i am wasting quite a bit. With an airbursh, there will not be the wide spray and I won't waste as much lacquer.

My question specifically pertains to whether I can following the same instructions for spraying the Deft brushing lacquer with an airbrush as are found on the rattle can. Or is there a better method?

jeff
 
Jeff, some have tried (and may still use it), but I can't attest to the finish or anything about it. I use the quart cans of Deft myself, but I dip. Russ Fairfield has this method layed out on one of his finishing pages.
 
Originally posted by jeffj13
<br />Dave,

The rattle can throws a spray about 10" wide. Therefore, only a small portion of the lacquer is "hitting" the pen and i am wasting quite a bit. With an airbursh, there will not be the wide spray and I won't waste as much lacquer.

My question specifically pertains to whether I can following the same instructions for spraying the Deft brushing lacquer with an airbrush as are found on the rattle can. Or is there a better method?

jeff
Click to expand...

The instructions on the spray can have changed since I first started using it a year ago.
My initial coats are for sealing and leveling.I am not looking for a thick finished Dipped in plastic appearance)
I used extremely thin coats and MM after an hour VERY LIGHTLY. I blow off the lacquer dust between grits.
I may apply as many as 12 coats with most of it being "sanded off"

Experiment and see what works best for you.Atmospheric conditions have a great effect on success. if in doubt wait longer. If the mm gums up wait longer.

Originally posted by txcwboy
<br />So you have been using and liking the output of Deft lacquer but dont like the what ? Im confused. If your spraying the can stuff your still spraying and will have all the same cons as the rattle can.No ? By diluting it, wont you be lessing its properties and will just have to use twice as much ?

Dave
Click to expand...
Rattle cans are about $5.00
Deft quarts about $8.50
Thinner$6.00 +-
I use a $5.00 air brush from HF.
I can adjust the Lacquer to thinner ratio.
I can adjust the spray pattern.
The lacquer doesn't drip into the well and ruin what I am working one(When spraying flat work)
Also I know when I am going to run out.
I always have pressure&gt;(Something that isn't always so in a can that is supposed to be turned upside down to clean out the nozzel)
Based on investment the air brush wins hands down.
(To "clean it" I dip the suction tube in a small can of LT and give it a couple of shots into the D.C. haven't blown myself up yet.)

(I am using water based Unaxol and am preferring it more than the Deft.)
 
Jeff: I sometimes use DEFT. I have applied it with paper towel while it is turning. This works like "friction" polish and dries virtually instantaneously. Additional coats can be applied in a short time. I think spraying would work fine, but why have the overspray and the mess?
Another option is dipping (numerous threads here on that subject). Oscar
 
Another option is dipping (numerous threads here on that subject). Oscar
Click to expand...

though dipping will give good results the finish is no where compareable to a multicoat spray with sanding between coats.
Think of a grand piano or another piece of fine furniture "dipped" in the finish.
It is the multiple coats that give the finish"depth".
There is a great difference in appearance to a finish with a couple of coats that is smooth and glossy and one that has a deep finish to it.
I have done both.The multiple coat method takes more time but the appearance is well worth it.
It would depend on the wood, the kit and how much you wish to try yo sell the pen for.
 
I'm one of the "dippers" and do so regularly. I've been tempted to drag one of my air brushes out, but the dipping works well for me. I usually dip each barrel twice then turn it upside down and dip twice more (allowing for drying between dips, of course). However, on some woods, I will only dip once in each postion. Dipping without flipping the orientation causes a heavier build up at the lower end... gravity and all that. Yes, it takes time, and yes, it's a pain. But it works for me and I like the result. And as has been said before, your MPG may vary. [:D]
 
Just an update. I set up the airbrush last night and it worked fine. I still need to rub out the finish, but I am happy with the result so far.

For those that are interested, I thinned the lacquer 50/50. I sprayed three very light coats 1 minute apart. I waited one hour and repeated the process. I did this three times, so I have 9 light coats of lacquer on the piece. I thought about adding 3 more coats, but I was tired and impatient. I may add more after I rub it out.

Oscar, I had considered other options such as dipping and wiping, but I had been happy with the results that I had gotten with a rattle can, so i wanted to give airbrushing a try. With the HF airbrush only costing $6, I wasn't making a big investment.

With the airbrush, there is little in the way of overspray and there is no mess, since I capture what little overspray there is in a makeshift paint booth.

I took a medium size cardboard box (12" x 18"), ran a thin dowel through the holes for the box handles and mounted the turned blank on the dowel (like a barbeque spit). I spun the dowel as I sprayed the lacquer. Nice part about this set-up is that I could mount and spray several pens at a time.

Someday when I have time, I will built a small spary box with a port that can be hooked up to my DC so that any fumes are contained.

Thank to all who responded and for your suggestions. Eagle, special thanks for being on point.

jeff
 
Czarcastic actually uses a barbque spit motor to revolve his pans after he sprays them.
When I find one of those motors at a flea market, IT"S SOLD!
For now I spray them right on the lathe(lathe off) and turn them by hand for a minute until the "set" and then spin for a few minutes at low speed.
 
The only thing that sets Deft apart from other nitrocellulose lacquers is that it is a "brushing" lacquer. That means that it has thinners that evaporate more slowly as the surface film develops to allow the brush marks to level out.

This slower evaporation rate means that the surface film forms more slowly when it is sprayed, and there is more opportunity for runs and curtains to develop when we try to apply too much. In this respect it isn't any different from the spray can.

How much is "too much" will depend on the diameter of the nozzle in the gun and the air pressure. Personally I would use less thinner to start with, more like a 70/30 Deft to thinner ratio, and no more than 25 PSI on the compressor gauge. That way you can add more thinner, but not to exceed a 50/50 ratio, if you aren't getting a good spray pattern. Once you get a good mix and spray, then back off or increase the air pressure until you can get a good transfer from 6" to no mre than 10" from the work.
 
Eagle, I bought the air brush from HF a month ago and it's already crapping out on me. Air leaks from the button. Have you had this problem? I've only run air 30-40 pounds out of it which it claims to be able to handle. What psi do you usually run?

BTW, if you can get down into my area any time soon I'd love to show you a few of my "experimental" finishes. I've chatted with you about them before but they are a LOT harder and more durable than lacquer and can be easily MM'ed to a high polish within about 5 hours of curing.
 
Fish, I have two Pasche air brushes and I've never run higher than 30 psi w/either and they WILL handle more than that. I'm guessing that pressure blew the seals. Are you sure your pressure guage is accurate?
 
Which HF brush do you have?
I have beeen using the same one since I got it about 4months ago.
Mine is the one that eslls for $5.00 on sale.
I think I run about 25 lbs through it.
 
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