SNAKE WOOD

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Turning is not as tricky as keeping if from cracking after it is finished. Still you need to keep the chisel honed and sharp. In my opinion, I think a scraper chisel would be easier on wood that hard.
 
I've made pens using snakewood and they cracked.
The last one I made I tried something different. I drilled a piece to make a Sierra, checked to make sure the tube fit, then let it sit for a month. When I checked it again the tube would not fit. the wood shrank that much. After re-drilling and finishing the pen it has not cracked - yet, it's been almost a year.
Drill slow using a sharp bit and avoid any heat buildup.
 
In my experience snakewood will usually crack. One method is to turn the barrel and then set it aside until it cracks then make a slurry (ca and sawdust) and help funnel it into the crack. Think of it as almost like an expansion joint -just like concrete : )
 
I have never had a snakewood pen crack on me. I usually drill it, let it sit a week, re drill, glue tube, square, turn, finish with 2 coats thin CA, 4 coats Med. CA and MM to 12000.
 
I think that snakewood is super-sensitive to heat and forms micro-cracks due to heat. As the wood dries out more, the cracks open up and become more visible. Be advised, this information is worth exactly $0.02!:confused:
 
One of the first pens I turned was snakewood. It must have been my ignorance and inexperience, because I didn't have any problems with it and I really liked the look of it. So, later I tried some more snakewood (3 times) and it blew up every time. Now I have lots of snakewood slivers.

Tomas
 
I've only done Snakewood once and it had a very thin crack after sitting for about a month after turning. I was warned it would probably happen, so I put it aside to let it happen. Once done, I then filled with thin CA and re-finished. It came out quite well and barely noticible.

I like the thought of drilling and drying though, and will probably give that a go next time. I've used this technique with Ebony (which I hear cracks easily also) and had good results.
 
JerrySambrook said:
Why do we, as penturners, typically have a problem with snakewood.
Yet, woodturners in general do not?

Is it because of the mixed media?

Just asking
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I think they have their issues as well. I have seen several PRS guitars with snakewood fret boards cracked. :eek:

I always keep two kinds of snakewood in stock. Snakewood that has cracked and snakewood that is going to crack :biggrin:
 
I believe that by first allowing the bkank to acclimate to the shop 3 to 4 months, then CAREFULLY and slowly drilled Avoid heat at all cost, allow the blank to stabilize then after a month or so redrill and let it sit a week or two THEN glue it with Epoxy, Not CA and Not Gorilla glue, epoxy will move a bit with the work as it maintains it plasticity, Turn pen, but again avoid heat, I have a pen I bought the blank from Nolan almost 3 years ago and still looks good, no cracks.
CharlesH even turned a handle for a Woodchuck Pen Pro from Snake wood, BUT it has been in his shop for 8 years,
 
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