Slimline

[swanny70]

I just received some slimline kits in the mail. Surprisingly, this is my first time with slimlines. When I started about 4 months ago, I started with European. For all the newbies out there....never start with European. The tenon is not fun! Anyway, the slimlines are fun to do. I think I'm getting alot better at the finishing part.

 

[Drstrangefart]

They look good! One suggestion: If you don't feel like setting up a light box or getting TOO fancy with the photos, at least switch up to a white backdrop. I use an old white T-shirt for all of mine. The table's surface makes it hard to get the fine details out of them.

 

[SDB777]

Nice trio there! Well turned!




Scott (euro= no fun) B

 

[swanny70]

Following advice

Because of some expert advice about taking pictures with a white background, I had to make a new pen to try it out. Since it's July, I decided to go for being patriotic.

 

[Drstrangefart]

That makes it a LOT easier to see what's going on with it. Looks good, reminds me of a lot of stuff I've done.

 

[Justturnin]

Great looking set there. If I may add some pointers, this is for acrylic/resin pens wood would be a bit different. You appear to be a bit proud on some of your transitions. If you don't have a pair I would pick up a pair of calipers, Digital will be easier. I got mine at HF on sale for $9.99, picked up 3 at that price. When you open your components take your calipers, close them and zero out, and measure each piece (Nib, Band,Clip) and write down the measurements (I use mm) on a piece of paper or I use a Dry Erase board by my lathe. Turn your pen down to about +0.15mm of your finished size going by the measurements you wrote not the bushings. If you can, start WET sanding (never dry sand plastic) at 600. If you feel you need to start at a courser grit you can do 400 but I would not go lower just spend more time w/ the 400. If you need 400 I would leave it about 0.20mm to give you a little more room to clean up you sanding marks. Finish off w/ the 600 at about 0.08mm proud and move to your MM up to 12k. That will get you pretty darn close to zeroing out on your fit. You can use the MM if you want to get a little closer but be careful because Wet sanding removes material faster than you think. Once you finish with your MicroMesh you can, not necessary, take a fine plastic polish or fine car polish and give it a once over to remove the last of the micro scratches that you may be able to see.

Also, check out this link. It is a link to all of Kurt Hertzog's pen turning articles that he publishes in Woodturning Design, under the "Journey from Penturning to Penmaking". They are great articles. I still read them when I am having troubles becasue they will bring me back to the basics that I start to get away from.

Articles, Demos & Classes by Kurt Hertzog

Best of luck to you and keep it up. Can't wait for you next pen.

Ohh, if you like Slims try out the Trimlines(they go by several other names), same pen fatter centerband.

 

[swanny70]

Chris,
Thanks alot. I really appreciate people giving me advice.

 

[Drstrangefart]

Chris,
Thanks alot. I really appreciate people giving me advice.

That's what everyone is here for. I've been down the caliper road, and it does get more consistent results. I didn't have any calipers when I first started, so I had to get good enough with my tools to get right down to the bushing and NOT tear the metal up. That gets me an ideal fit 99% of the time. I also sand everything pretty thoroughly before polishing with the micromesh, and it seems to make for a much cleaner fit.