Slicing acrylic blanks

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GaryMGg

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I tried to search this here and didn't see anything specific.

Do acrylic blanks slice cleanly when cut on the TS or CMS using fine tooth, thin kerf blade and Zero-tolerance throat plate or does this present a known problem?

Do they glue up for segmentation similarly to wood -- that is, can I use CA to reglue the pieces -- or is that asking for failures?

Advice based on experience please.
Thanks,
Gary
 
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When cutting acrylic on my TS, I get the same saw marks from the blade I get with any wood. The one exception is that the last tiny corner normally chips or breaks away as the blank is almost cut through. (vs the wood mostly staying intact and cutiing away.)

I always go slower with the acrylic. Also, it helps more when the material is warm and the chipping as the cut is getting completed gets worse for me when cold.
 
Even though I get a 'mostly' clean cut, I lay out each piece on a sheet of sandpaper and give it 4-5 short strokes per side to smooth it out. I also get the corner chip out described by Mikey. I imagine if I clamp the blank down instead of holding with finger pressure, I may eliminate that chipout.
 
I just did an acrylic segmented pen, on a table saw, at an angle, and glued with CA. It came out very nice, one tiny spot where the seem was seperated on the final pen, filled with CA, sanded and polished. I did get the tiny chip they are talking about, had to trim it with the bandsaw and sand a tiny bit.
 
Originally posted by polarbear1
<br />I just did an acrylic segmented pen, on a table saw, at an angle, and glued with CA. It came out very nice, one tiny spot where the seem was seperated on the final pen, filled with CA, sanded and polished. I did get the tiny chip they are talking about, had to trim it with the bandsaw and sand a tiny bit.

NP,DH! [;)]

Seriously, thanks to each of you for the input. Tonight is the ugliest night of the month for me -- I pay bills. Hope to put this info to the test tomorrow night. Sooner if I write quickly enough.

Gary
 
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