Slab table advice?

[Woodnknots]

I am making a table for someone from a crosscut slab of black walnut. I have some theories on how best to stabilize the growth rings and finish the table, but as this is my first time ever doing this, I would like some help. The slabs are a bit cracked, but pretty uniformly in most places, and where they are not uniform, I can inlay butterflies to fix it. These slabs were cut two years ago to about 6 inches thick, and then milled this weekend on a woodmizer to about 1-1/2 inches thick. a couple are about 3 inches thick. My gut says that they should be pretty dry, so not likely to move dramatically. But I need to stabilize it so I can add legs and finish. My initial idea was to use self-leveling epoxy for table tops. Any thoughts on that? I know that this is primarily a penturning site, but I also know that there are some talented "flatworkers" here.

 

[DWK5150]

The few that I have made I used redwood slabs and just used a epoxy finish on them and didnt have any problems with that at all. Sounds like you are going to use butterflys in the cracked areas which I also did. You might want to check the moisture though on the pieces that were more towards the center of the block cause 6" is prety thick and those might not be dry.

 

[Woodnknots]

Originally posted by DWK5150
<br />The few that I have made I used redwood slabs and just used a epoxy finish on them and didnt have any problems with that at all. Sounds like you are going to use butterflys in the cracked areas which I also did. You might want to check the moisture though on the pieces that were more towards the center of the block cause 6" is prety thick and those might not be dry.

If you don't mind me asking, what epoxy finish did you use? My thought was to sand the living crud out of it, then hit it with self-leveling epoxy. when you did yours, did you drill holes on the underside and insert turned tenons for the legs, or did you make up an apron for it? Also, did you epoxy both sides, and how did you treat the edges? Sorry for all the questions, I want to get this right.

 

[DWK5150]

I used the system three epoxy kit and I did finish both sides. The edges I ised the epoxy on as well you just need to make sure you have all the dust and dirt and junk out of there if there is still bark on the edge. Actually I used a scraper to finish mine and get it good and smooth instead of sanding. No aprons on mine dont think it would look right. One I actually used figure eight fastners they are small so you put them on the inside you have to look really hard to see them underneath and the other I used tenons.

 

[alamocdc]

Dave, I'll concur with Don on checking for moisture. I've worked thick stock that has been air drying for three and four years that still has significant moisture in it.

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

The standard is 1 year for each inch of thickness. So the wood is not dry yet if it was air dried. The good news is walnut looks allot better if it is air dried.

How wide are these slabs?

I'm guessing the slab was cut into four 1-1/2" sections, you DON'T WANT the outside slabs because one side will be drier than the other side and the wood will warp, unless of course the outside of the slabs where milled. The inner sections will have a better moisture balance on both sides.

Do you have a moisture meter?

For a finish, I love waterlox, it really make walnut look great. Don't forget to finish both sides. Finishing both side helps to keep a top flat

What type of base are you making? Allot can be done to help keep the top flat with the right base.

 

[Woodnknots]

Originally posted by Ron in Drums PA
<br />The standard is 1 year for each inch of thickness. So the wood is not dry yet if it was air dried. The good news is walnut looks allot better if it is air dried.

How wide are these slabs?

I'm guessing the slab was cut into four 1-1/2" sections, you DON'T WANT the outside slabs because one side will be drier than the other side and the wood will warp, unless of course the outside of the slabs where milled. The inner sections will have a better moisture balance on both sides.

Do you have a moisture meter?

For a finish, I love waterlox, it really make walnut look great. Don't forget to finish both sides. Finishing both side helps to keep a top flat

What type of base are you making? Allot can be done to help keep the top flat with the right base.

I haven't quite decided on a base yet. My initial idea was just to use tenons turned on 3 legs. But I am considering a base with two legs and a stretcher. I have seen waterlox, but I am thinking that the epoxy finish will nearly eliminate the possiblity of humidity/moisture affecting it's shape.