Sharpening my skew. Diamond or electric?

[Niels]

I made my first pens and I'm happy about them so far. Still al lot to learn but they are not bad at all. I will post some pics soon. I have a cheap set of diamond plates which go up to 320 grit and made a strop myself out of an old belt. I noticed I only use my 19mm/ 3/4 inch skew and some parting tools and I wanna keep it at that.
Now, I can buy a Tormek with a guiding piece but is seems a bit excessive for the 3 chisels I use so I thought a set of DMT diamond plates 320, 600,1200 should do it. Would that be enough or do I need something else in the long run? Otherwise it would be ashame to spend a 100 euros on the diamond plates and then again 400 for the Tormek in a year.

It's already turning into quite some money and I don't wanna overdo it. But what needs to ben done needs to be done.

I know there are a lot of topics about the subject but I wanna know can I manage with only the diamond plates?

Greetings Niels

 

[Niels]

 

[monophoto]

It's already turning into quite some money and I don't wanna overdo it. But what needs to ben done needs to be done.

Yes, turning can become addictive, and like most addictions, it can be expensive.

I use inexpensive diamond plates almost exclusively for my skew chisels. And I only use one - I think its 400 grit. You don't normally need to grind a skew chisel - just polish the face to restore the cutting edge, and a few swipes with a diamond plate is sufficient.

I also have a sanding disc that I can mount on my lathe that takes interchangeable (hook and loop) sandpaper. I bought a basic disc at a hardware store - it was designed to be used with a motorized grinder and had a 16mm threaded female shaft coupling. I made a wooden mandrel that screws to the spindle of my lathe headstock and has a tenon that I glued into that female coupling. I can use this sanding disc to do more serious gringing/shaping of my chisels if necessary. However, about the only time that is needed is if something drastistically abnormal happens - like dropping the chisel and having it land tip down on the concrete floor!

 

[Niels]

Do I need a 1200 plate for a skew chisel then? Otherwise I could buy a 600 plate and be done. Although sets are usually cheaper then loose plates.
And does size matter? I could buy a set of small plates that saves a lot of money too.

 

[monophoto]

I have some inexpensive (Chinese) plates that are larger that I use mainly to sharpen bench chisels, plane irons, and other larger tools. But for my turning tools, I normally use only a small plate about the size of a business card.

 

[MRDucks2]

I have used wet stones, Diamond plates, Diamond cards, my belt sander, grinding wheels and grinders with wolverine jigs.

My best edges were with oil stones because that is what I grew up with, but it does take some time. I primarily use the grinder to change the shape of chisels, though it can be used for a quick sharpening with a quick, light touch.

The Diamond cards are quick and easy. 600 is fine. 400 will work.

In all honestly I believe the sander gave me the quickest, most consistent free hand results.

 

[leehljp]

If you are using HSS tools and it seems that you are with a skew, in the long run you may want to consider CBN wheels.

I have a Tormek knockoff from Grizzly. It is very good and the water wheel keeps the blades cool as it sharpens. The problem with most wheel sharpeners for HSS is the heat build up. The problem with Tormek types (water cooled) are the speeds are very slow or it would sling the water off the wheel, and therefore the second problem becomes: grinding is SLOW. If one is used to that, then there is no problem.

The CBN wheels are fast and they do not build up heat like regular grinders do. They come in versions from 80 to 1000.

Here is a thread from 4 years ago that covers a good bit on sharpening with CBN.

CBN Wheels for grinder

I am considering an 8 inch CBN grinding wheel for my Delta VS grinder. I have not seen any thread here specifically dedicated to 1. CBN wheels, 2. grit choices, 3. width; 4. curved or flat and 5. brand. There have been a few threads where some of these characteristics have been discussed, but I...

www.penturners.org

IF I were to start over, my choices would be between CBN wheels and belt sharpening . . . and both if I could afford the two.

 

[Niels]

But then we go the same direction. A tormek with a cbn wheel and a jig. That's 650 euro/dollar
A diamond plate 600 grit 30 dollars.

I have a belt sander and 180 grit bands so if need be I will make some sort of jig.

Do I need the 400 and 1200?

 

[RunnerVince]

But then we go the same direction. A tormek with a cbn wheel and a jig. That's 650 euro/dollar
A diamond plate 600 grit 30 dollars.

I think Hank meant a bench grinder with a CBN wheel, rather than a Tormek, which could cut your cost down significantly, although jigs like the Oneway Wolverine could jack that right back up.

That said, if you're primarily using your skew, a grinder with a stock or slightly upgraded grinding plate could be set up for the one tool and then never touched, and would get you going for around $200 (I think my PSI slow-speed grinder was $200, and then another $150 for the wolverine system, although I know there's a well-reviewed, less expensive "off brand" alternative).

The diamond plates work great. In fact, I often use them to refresh my skew when I have my Wolverine jig set up for my bowl gouge and don't want to take the time to change the setup. I find that I'm able to get a great edge...although I think I do slightly better with my grinder. My problem is mostly a lack of patience. When it's set up for my skew, my grinder is the quicker and more reliable option.

 

[randyrls]

As an aside, Skews vary in ease-of-use on how they are ground. A hollow grind tends to be "grabby". A flat grind is best compromise, and a convex grind is very easy to use but not as sharp. Next time you are looking a new skew in person, look at the grind. From the manufacturer they are almost always a flat grind.

CBN wheels with a flat on the side of the wheel is my solution. YMMV

 

[Woodchipper]

Back after the earth cooled, I bought a Rikon grinder and a Wolverine setup. Does good for sharpening tools but I use the DMT set of three diamond files to touch up the edges while taking a break from turning. Works great. BTW, the files are also great for sharpening knives and scissors.

 

[Niels]

I was looking at the DMT set 400/600/1200 with the plastic coloured bottom. I thought that would be enough. It's 130 euros in Holland but that's acceptable and I can also sharpen all my kitchen knives. I can hardly cut myself with them anymore, so blunt they are.

The only thing I wonder about is do I want the little holes or do I want a complete surface

 

[wimkluck]

Maybe is this a good solution https://www.woodworking.nl/threads/...-1000-dws-cp8-fc-op-ibood-tot-vanavond.34698/ I have one and it works.

 

[Niels]

I bought a sorby pro edge. Now it arrived and I have the jig to sharpen my hamlet skew but the angle is way different. I don't know whether to grind it down or bring back the jig. I mean it's off half a cm. What do you think?

 

[howsitwork]

Does the current angle of skew on the blade edge suit you ?
If so don't change just make a new jig for it. Their jig is set to the angle they promote for their original grind tools I believe ( sorby correct me if i am wrong in that statement ).

I hone my skews after grinding with a red DMT plate , the one with holes , or one of their files ( either red one or blue one depending on which is nearest ( to be honest ) .

I like the cutting edge slightly curved on my regular skews , to do that you pivot the skew as you grind it but that's for regular spindle work not pen work. For my pens I use my round skews with a straight edge . Once you hav3 an angle that works for you and feels comfortable stay with it