Sharpening a Steel Cutter/ Replacement Carbide Cutter

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Mordi

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2012
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99
Location
San Diego, CA 92131
I have a 3/4 steel cutter on my PSI Universal Barrel Trimming System. The cutter seems like it is a getting dull and I was wondering if anybody has sharpened this type of cutter. If so, what is the procedure and what type of results should I expect?

I see they also offer a carbide cutter, but the website reviews seem mixed - some folks stated it tears up wood blanks :eek: and others indicate you must drill very slowly on acrylics. Anybody use this type of cutter with success?

Thanks,
Mordi
 
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We have a great library here on IAP. In the General Reference section there iw a link to this article: http://www.penmakersguild.com/articles/penmillsharpening1.pdf
They sharpen nicely and work great afterwards. I also have a couple of the carbide pen mills and they work fine for me....on all materials.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Mordi said:
I have a 3/4 steel cutter on my PSI Universal Barrel Trimming System. The cutter seems like it is a getting dull and I was wondering if anybody has sharpened this type of cutter. If so, what is the procedure and what type of results should I expect?

I see they also offer a carbide cutter, but the website reviews seem mixed - some folks stated it tears up wood blanks :eek: and others indicate you must drill very slowly on acrylics. Anybody use this type of cutter with success?

Thanks,
Mordi
Click to expand...
 
I'm not able to answer your first question, sorry.

I have and use the carbide cutter. I found that using it in the drill press at slow speed (250 rpm) gave the best results for wood blanks, probably for two reasons. I think I had much better control with the drill press than I did with a hand held drill. The cutters are aggressive, and too much much pressure will wreck a blank in a hurry. I'm a novice turner, but I can verify that I have experience ruining blanks.

Second, the slower speed means you're "shaving" rather than cutting. I've had good results turning the spindle by hand for the last two rotations so I avoid chewing up the brass tube.

I haven't used it for acrylic.
 
Hi, you can sharpen them on a flat diamond hone.I use a Smiths fine diamod hone on EWT round carbide insert.Small circular motions,dry,10 one way 10 the other till your satisfied.

Tear out is only an issue with blanks so dry and brittle that they really should be stabilized.An easy remedy for this is to: apply thin CA,take a few light scrapes,repeat.

Ignore this post,I just reread the first post and missed "barrel trimmer"
 
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Few things to note:

CA does not 'stabilize' period.

'tear out' can and will happen on a good number of materials, be it wet or dry, soft, hard or what not, it's a simple math problem.

Uhm "shaving" rather than cutting? Would love to hear this one explained.

Onwards.

I have a 3/4 steel cutter on my PSI Universal Barrel Trimming System. The cutter seems like it is a getting dull and I was wondering if anybody has sharpened this type of cutter. If so, what is the procedure and what type of results should I expect?
Click to expand...

Yes I have sharpened the trimmer that I have a few times. The PDF linked is a good place to start however you will still be limited to serious design flaws in the cutting head. That is the angle of the cutting edge to the blank and the type of cut on the blank material itself. Truth be known trimmers works good for some blanks but very deficient on many.

Changing the angle of the cutting bevel would be a good place to start but that is very tricky with the limited space you have to deal with. Also seriously limited by the material you can used. The design practically mandates you use some type of swiss file.

The biggest downfall of the trimmers is the blank shaft diameter.


I see they also offer a carbide cutter, but the website reviews seem mixed - some folks stated it tears up wood blanks and others indicate you must drill very slowly on acrylics. Anybody use this type of cutter with success?
Click to expand...

Some here will swear that carbide is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Many like to use them as duct tape and swiss army knives and think they are some glorious universal tool. Truth of the matter is this; as with all tools there is a limit to application in which they are better suited for. Many situations were carbide falls grossly short.

Drill speed is very dependent upon many factors such as bit size and material you are cutting.

Furthermore sandpaper and skew chisels is perhaps the better choice to use. However if you are drilling on the lathe then you can also trim on the lathe at the same time.
 
I have chewed up too many blanks with the carbide barrel trimmers with a hand drill so I dont bother with anyting but hard true stone or m3 metal anymore. I have yet to try it on my drill press.

I have not bothered sharpening the metal cutters, it is too easy to buy a new one.
 
I am getting back into sharpening trimmers. I use a tool and cutter grinder. Can do HSS or the carbide ones. It is cheaper to do multiple if you have them. $10 for the first, $6 each for more. (HSS) Carbide add $2 for each.
 
I'm one of the lucky ones and see Paul often enough to have him sharpen my mills, both carbide. If you want a really sharp mill you can't beat his work. One sharp carbide mill would last me when I was making 800 pens a year six months and 99% were man made materials
 
edstreet said:
...
Some here will swear that carbide is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Many like to use them as duct tape and swiss army knives and think they are some glorious universal tool. Truth of the matter is this; as with all tools there is a limit to application in which they are better suited for.
...
Click to expand...

THE Universal Tool is a hammer. I've been know to keep one on my desk at work. I have yet to find anything (or anyone) I can't fix with it to MY satisfaction... :biggrin:
 
edstreet said:
Uhm "shaving" rather than cutting? Would love to hear this one explained.

Onwards.
Click to expand...

It's like the difference between using a finely tuned hand plane to shave off of sliver, or a hand saw to cut off a chunk.

A light touch with the barrel trimmer shaves off a sliver. A heavy touch cuts off a chunk.

I realize that I only have one post here, and I'm a novice turner, so I had to start somewhere with a first post. I just wanted to help a guy new to pen turning like me.

Sorry if I overstepped with too simple of an analogy.

Upwards.
 
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No need for an apology at all. Shaving and cutting is both cutting, that is what threw me.

Oh and welcome to IAP.

Brian G said:
edstreet said:
Uhm "shaving" rather than cutting? Would love to hear this one explained.

Onwards.
Click to expand...

It's like the difference between using a finely tuned hand plane to shave off of sliver, or a hand saw to cut off a chunk.

A light touch with the barrel trimmer shaves off a sliver. A heavy touch cuts off a chunk.

I realize that I only have one post here, and I'm a novice turner, so I had to start somewhere with a first post. I just wanted to help a guy new to pen turning like me.

Sorry if I overstepped with too simple of an analogy.

Upwards.
Click to expand...
 
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