Sharpen to what grit?

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mdwilliams999

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For now I plan to use my current 6" grinder to sharpen my chisels. I made a DIY jig for sharpening them - one for the 1/2 spindle gouge and another that is off-set inorder to sharpen the parting chisel. I only have 36 and 60 grit.

My question: Should I replace both wheels with say 100 and 150 grit?

Mike
 
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One consideration: How good are your tools?

Taking metal off a Sorby costs a lot more than a Benjamin's Best.

I'll let others talk about wheels, I use wet grinding.
 
When I first got my tools, the guy at Rockler told me to sharpen them with 80, because any sharper than that was a waste, given how much material they are removing.

At some point I swapped out for 120 grit and I will never go back.

My friend has a worksharp with a 220 grit, and it is an improvement over my 120.
 
I use a belt grinder to sharpen tools and can definitely tell the difference between 100 grit and 220 grit. Finer the grit, keener the edge. Also, the finer grit will allow you to get a smoother finish...especially with a skew. My opinion FWIW.
 
The wheels you have are probably good for re-shaping but not really for sharpening. For sharpening I use a 120 and am happy with that. You can always go finer than 120 but 120 will do it.
 
JimB said:
Why do you have an off-set for the parting tool?
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I looked at a few DIY jigs and that is how he was sharpening them. He was on top of the wheel for the 1/2 spindle gouge and on the side of the wheel for the 1/2" skew (I believe I said parting tool in my first post).
 
So based on the replies so0 far, it sounds like I may want to keep the 60 grit wheel for shaping and replace the 36 grit with at least 120 or 150, but I don't need to higher than that at least for now. Sounds like if I start here, some experience will go a long ways to deciding where I want to go down the road.

Does anyone know about how sharp the woodchuck is? I'm guessing you don't sharpen them - you just turn it when getting dull and then replace it.

Mike
 
"on the side of the wheel for the 1/2" skew "

The side of the wheel is considered a high risk for sharpening --- some get away with it, but you are operating outside of all recommended practices.

Sharpen the skew flat on the table against the curved of the wheel -- take a bit of practice, but works --
 
60 and 120, then hone the skew with a fine diamond hone or 600 grit sandpaper. 60 is good for roughing bowls, spindles and such. No need to go beyond 120 on the grinder. Use the edge of the wheel only.

Dan
 
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paps said:
I use a belt grinder to sharpen tools and can definitely tell the difference between 100 grit and 220 grit. Finer the grit, keener the edge. Also, the finer grit will allow you to get a smoother finish...especially with a skew. My opinion FWIW.
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I got my chisels used, and when I first got them had to sharpen my skew and gouge. I used my belt sander with a broken in 320 grit belt that got used on knives that only needed to have a new bevel set. I've since turned Lignum Vitea, Cocobolo, Stabalized Maple (hard), East Indian rosewood, and a few others.

I'm just starting to get a better feel for the skew, and they both take off fine shavings of dust If I do my part.

The guy I got the chisels from told me to use 120 grit, but a finer grit sharpened blade will last longer than a coarser grit one depending on the use for the blade. I figure if my novice (read "very rough") chisel sharpening job can still perform like it is after all the turning I've used them for, then 320 must not be too fine.

I've a lot of experience with sharpening knives, and people who see my work seem to think I'm pretty good at it. One thing I've learned is that absolutes are rarely the norm. With knife sharpness, what's best depends on the user, and the use.

Maybe I am getting my chisels too sharp with my finer belt. Then again, their still cutting pretty good.

Now, that said, I realize that I'm still a newb at this, and may well one day discover that things would have been a lot easier if I'd listened to the guy who gave me the chisels. For now, I just don't see the reason to use the more aggressive belt (other than grind away the chisel faster).
 
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