Shaeffer Rod blanks

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Jim Smith

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Joined
Jul 27, 2008
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Lakeland, FL
I purchased a few of the Shaeffer rod blanks that Elliot Landes (XYLOSTYLE) had for sale. I drilled the blanks the other day and this material is very different from any of the acrylics I've used. It is rather soft and has a low melting point. That being said, are there any tips any of you that have worked with this material can offer for working with this material? I will be turning a couple of these blanks this weekend and I would hate to spoil them. I certainly plan to keep my tools sharp and my only wet sand these blanks but I'd love to hear of any experiences people can share.

Jim Smith

Thanks for your assistance with this.
 
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I have done a few from this material and it is gorgeous. Extremely "heat sensistive" and to overcome this I drill "slowly" and in stages: allow to cool after say drilling to a depth of 1". Wait (say 10 minutes) and start again (another 1") and so on until done. Well worth the time and inconvenience to get her done.
 
Turning isn't any problem as long as your tools are SHARP, drilling on the other hand must be done slowly with sharp bits and I keep a spray bottle of water and fill the hole with water every 1/8 inch and spray the drill bit to cool. As to finishing also wet sand with M/M, I use the M/M pads then brasso,maquires scratch remover and finally mequires plastic polish.....
 
Shaffer Rods

Jim,

A member here gave me this advice and is what I continue to use.

Drill Press; As DNA is inherently cold, soak a wrag in DNA, drill slowly and after an 1/8 in. or so back out and wrap the wrag around the bit to cool. It takes more time, but the finished blanks with these rods is certainly worth it.

I now only drill this material on the lathe and use Colt bits. Drilling is more true and with these bits, you can drill deeper before cooling, and no blow-out.

Several good ideas; take your pick and take it slowly.

Bill Sampson,Richmond
 
RAdams said:
and please post pics of the finished work!!
Click to expand...
I drill mine on my lathe at around 600 RPM and squirt DNA in the hole. I love the material, and it finishes so beautifully, notice how brittle the drilled out material is, which seems odd when you consider how soft and temperature sensitive it is.
 

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That is what I found to be the key to drilling these blanks with accurracy and ease and that is to drill on the lathe and I use my collet chuck and cool the bit with denatured alcohol. Works great and never a blowout. As far as turning goes I use nothing but a sharp skew. I love the material and wish I was able to get some of their earlier colors.
 
I just bought some of this rod as well, and have cut and drilled blanks for two Jr. Gents. I was advised to use WD-40 while drilling, and it worked great (on the lathe), and another friend uses PAM while drilling.
 
Drill on the lathe approx. 500 rpm's. I use a little water to keep the blank cool. I suffered the same experience as you the first time I tried this on the drill press.
 
I drill on the lathe as well... but I use wd-40 to lubricate and cool things. That way, I don't get my lathe rusty. Sure makes pretty pens, doesn't it?
 
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