Segmenting w/ lamenant

[Daddy1]

I have been experimenting with making the Celtic cross with strips of wood between two pieces of wood lamenant. My problem is the lamanent will not adhere to the wood so when I put is on the lathe often times the blank comes apart right at the line where the lamanent is. I think it has something to do with the adhesive on the back of the lamanent strip. Any suggestions. Besides this I have made a few and the outline of the wood with the thinner lamanent strip looks great!!!!

 

[leehljp]

Two questions: What kind of wood is in the laminate and which glues are you using?

Oily woods will prevent good adherence in some cases. Some glues react differently in different situations - i.e too tight a compression squeezes too much glue out and the result will be a weak joint. This is more prominent with very hard and oily woods.

What I wrote may not be totally correct technically, but it is the gist of what happens.

 

[mickr]

Mr. Lee is correct (he usually is) are you using appropriate glue for the materials you are using? are the joints blemish free and perfect fitting? keep at it..it will all come together soon

 

[wolftat]

Are you giving the glue enough time to set, it normally takes 24 hrs. Is the laminate pre-glued?

 

[Daddy1]

I am using strips that have adhesive on the back and I am using ca to glue up. I am not very patient so the glue up time might be an issue. I am using an accelerant after I glue and the surfaces are smooth and debris free. I will try letting the lamentant bond over night and see if that makes a difference

 

[KenV]

"I am using strips that have adhesive on the back and I am using ca to glue up."

PSA adhesives or similar adhesives on the strip are not designed for this kind of use and you are probably getting glue line failure. CA will not bond everything and tends to be brittle.

An epoxy may give you a better chance -- but use of material that does not have a contact adhesive in it - or using just the contact adhesive with a good amount of pressure will likely work better.

 

[wolftat]

I would agree with Ken, the pre glued strips are the weak links. Try getting some laminate that isn't glued and using either epoxy or CA to adhere it. You have to let the glues cure, not just set if you want a strong joint.

 

[shull]

The glue on the back of the laminate strips is probably the weak point. If you can't find any that is not preglued you might try removing the glue using a solvent. Try a scrap piece. A light sanding and then Gorilla Glue or CA should give a stronger joint.

 

[Randy_]

I was going to suggest the same thing. Remove the glue on the laminate or sand it off. Then use CA or epoxy or whatever you have been using. Can't say for sure; but I think that will solve your problem

For many glues, they will set up in a few seconds to a few minutes; but many of them do not develop "FULL" strength for many hours. Laminated blanks are inherently weaker than non-laminated blanks. With all of the time that is spent in constructing the blanks, it seems like good insurance to be patient and wait overnight to be sure the glue has reached its full strength.

 

[wolftat]

I just want to add one thing for those of you that may look at it and say HMMMM. Colored paper makes a lousy inlay material DAMHIK.

 

[akbar24601]

I just want to add one thing for those of you that may look at it and say HMMMM. Colored paper makes a lousy inlay material DAMHIK.

How do you know that Neil??? Sorry, I had to!!!:biggrin::wink::biggrin:

Sounds like everyone is pointing you in the right direction. I certainly agree with all that has been said.

 

[wolftat]

How do you know that Neil??? Sorry, I had to!!!:biggrin::wink::biggrin:

Looks like I'm going to have to tell you about my 4 BF, 4 day kindling making experience. You might want to sit down and get comfortable for this one.

 

[Scotty]

Usually, the adhesive on the laminate is heat activated (iron on). I would also advise you to remove it with a scraper and use CA.