Segment Cutting Jig For Miter Saw

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W

W.Y.

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As I was discussing this jig in a couple Segmented Turning boards on the internet that were geared primarily to segmented bowls and vessels etc, I got thinking that some people have done segmented work on pens as well and I also have although I previously did them on my table saw.


This is patterned from the one that I watch Malcolm Tibbets using in one of his DVD's .
He prefers this way over a table saw sled but he does show both ways and how to make a sled as well.

Here is a picture showing all of it .

segmentcuttingjig1.jpg


Below shows the right side of the blade with the wedge and disc that holds the strip against the fence. Notice the hole purposely drilled off center in the disk so it tightens the wedge against the wood being cut.

segmenycuttingjig2.jpg


Here is the left side shown with the blade in the down position. That little black tool is held by the left hand on top of the segment for safety reasons probably so there is no chance of the segment moving and causing a jamb or kickback although I cut quite a few segments before I made that little holder while I was fine tuning my segment angle and didn't have a problem.
I just used an ebony pen blank to make the tool and now that I have it I will get in the habit of using it.
I think where the tool comes in place mostly is if a person raises the blade while it is still spinning which could possibly lift up on the segment.
I have found that turning the saw off at the bottom of the cut for each one works very well and probably more safely . The blade brake is real good on that saw it really doesn't take all that much longer.

segmentcuttingjig3.jpg
 
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Thanks William. Was trying to figure out how to make one for my miter saw that was safe. This should work fine.
 
William,

That is a nice and simple setup. I happen to do all of my segmenting on my table saw with a series of sleds for different angles, but your idea looks easier to get started.
 
Simple and effective. I don't see way a set-up like that wouldn't work in a tablesaw sled also. Another wedge clamped aginst the sled fence that is the right angle so your stock gets cut at the correct angle. Maybe the angles required gets too complicated. Works in my mind but maybe not in reality.
 
jscola said:
O.K. Here comes a dumb question! Do you just cut the angle & flip the piece over for the opposite angle? Joe
Click to expand...

Exactly the way it is done. . Not a dumb question at all .

That is the way it is done if you are not concerned about grain orientation or in some cases pattern limitations .
The reason it is done that way about 95% of the time is because even though you think the blade is 100% 90 degrees with the table using an accurate machinists square or a Wixey angle gage (like I use) it could be out a hair and hair widths differences in segmentation do count negatively. It is an exacting art form . Enough things can go wrong along the way without starting off with segments that are not accurately cut.
The squiggly line I have on the piece shows up every other rotation of it . Same applies when gluing the segments together. One up, one down etc . . etc . If there is any discrepencies at all in the accuracy or the vertical alignment of the blade this pattern cancels it out.
There are however certain feature rings that do not allow for flipping the piece over . I am contemplating starting one like that in the near future . In that case it uses a little more wood and you have to saw every segment angle off of both sides without flipping it over.
Hope this has satisfied your curiosity. Some things are not as easy to explain as others unless actually seeing it being done.
Eventually I intend to get around to making some short videos on the subject.
 
PaulDoug said:
Simple and effective. I don't see way a set-up like that wouldn't work in a tablesaw sled also. Another wedge clamped aginst the sled fence that is the right angle so your stock gets cut at the correct angle. Maybe the angles required gets too complicated. Works in my mind but maybe not in reality.
Click to expand...

Paul.
Lots of people use a table saw sled for cutting segments. It's a matter of choice.
They are big and bulky and you need one for every different angle unless you are good enough to make an adjustable one that doesn't take a lot of tweaking every time you change angles. It generally takes about three trial and error half rings or full rings to get the angles perfect enough to make a perfect circle with no gaps when held up to a bright light on a dry fit before gluing .

Here is one of my table saw sleds . I will be using the wood from that one for something else now.
Biggest reason I switched from table saw sled to miter saw jig was that I was always switching blades from rip blade for ripping the strips to crosscut for cutting the segments . This way I don't need to change blades in either saw when doing segmentation. . I have a 96 tooth 12" Freud blade in the Miter saw which produces an amazingly clean cut.

SledwithToggleClamps.jpg
 
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