gerryr
Member
OK, I know Paul's pen vise is the best there is, but unfortunately I need one right away. I need to drill 60+ pieces of antler and it will take way to long to do that on my lathe. So, what's the second best pen vise?
Second best pen vise
- Thread starter gerryr
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Rifleman1776
Member
Get a cheap hinge, put two 2Xs side by side, attach hinge to one end, drill a hole large enough to accomodate the blanks, half on each side of the 2Xs, drill away. If you have the tools, rout or dado a 45 degree groove into either side instead the drilling bit.
gerryr
Member
Sounds similar to the one BB sells and a good idea.
mick
Member
I built a pen vise just like Frank described and its all I've ever used until recently when I began drilling on my lathe. I still use the homemade vise if my lathe tied up and don't want to take time to remove the chuck. It works well for me and it also serves to support your work on all sides when drilling with a larger bit making a blowout possible. The only thing I did differently was to add a second "cutout" of a smaller size to accommodate 5/8 blanks or some of the even smaller corian blanks(1/2)
fiferb
Member
Any chance we could see some pictures of these home made devices?
JimGo
Member
Bruce,
As Gerry mentioned, Bill Baumbeck sells this one:
http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/Pen_Kit_Finishing_Supplies_&_Tools_2.htm
As Gerry mentioned, Bill Baumbeck sells this one:
http://www.arizonasilhouette.com/Pen_Kit_Finishing_Supplies_&_Tools_2.htm
rtparso
Member
Or like this.
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Rifleman1776
Member
Ron, I just love your shop. It looks like it is actually used. I am very suspicious of those shops that are cleaner and neater than a surgical operating room. Those are just for show while the owners eat cheezies and play video games. [
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wood-of-1kind
Member
Okay, these are mine PEN BLANK VICES. While they're not quite on the Paul Hoffman scale they're pretty accurate and are all made from scrap lumber(maple) or odds 'n ends that I've scrounged in the maintenance shop. They are particularly useful to new penturners just starting out or anyone that is on a tight budget.
-Peter-
-Peter-
Firefyter-emt
Member
Peter, tell me honestly, did you mess up the cuts on the clamp style? I noticed the insert at the jaws and it looks just like mine, that I cut on the wrong side of the line I marked when I cut the hold for the blank.
By the way, here is mine. The t-track & knobs make it so fast and easy to micro adjust. Plus I can loosen the knobs and it slides off in seconds to put my fence back on.
By the way, here is mine. The t-track & knobs make it so fast and easy to micro adjust. Plus I can loosen the knobs and it slides off in seconds to put my fence back on.
wood-of-1kind
Member
Hi Lee,
no, I did not mess up at the insert jaw sides. The black thing is an automotive foam tape that allows better gripping of the wood blanks when clamped in the jaws. I really like your T-tack and knob design, I may need to borrow your design inspiration with my version II clamp. Thanks for sharing.
-Peter-[
]
no, I did not mess up at the insert jaw sides. The black thing is an automotive foam tape that allows better gripping of the wood blanks when clamped in the jaws. I really like your T-tack and knob design, I may need to borrow your design inspiration with my version II clamp. Thanks for sharing.
-Peter-[
]
Chuck Key
Member
cozee
Member
Hey Firefyter-emt, are those T-slot inserts? If so, where did you get them?
leehljp
Member Liaison
Greg,
Those are from Rockler. You can buy sets with the knobs and T-bolts included. On sale now at $10.99 for the set. Regularly $21.99.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5209
Those are from Rockler. You can buy sets with the knobs and T-bolts included. On sale now at $10.99 for the set. Regularly $21.99.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5209
Firefyter-emt
Member
Awesome deal!!! I paid like $14 on sale from them when I bought them.. Go for it it's worth it! I would also get the t-track hold down levers if you are putting in an order. These are clamps that clamp down your work piece when it's on the table.
woodwish
Member
Looks like everyone keeps improving on the last one. Now that I have seen Lee's I have one or two things I would like to change on it for my own design, and then I'll post a picture. I have one of the ones from CSUSA, which isn't bad, but it is slow to use and has a lot of play in it.
Firefyter-emt
Member
One thing I may do still is to add a swing out tray that is under the table. I would be nice to have my pen drills in a custom tray that just swings on a pivot point under the table. A magnetic catch would keep it in place easily. Idealy, if this was made from 2 layers and the pivot point towards the outside middle it could almost be a hidden tray that could swing 180 degrees with the proper hinge and set agains the side of the table when open. [
]
I mentioned earlier I think that a great thing is to be able to make a "drill table sled" If you glued a fence block to the top of a 3 foot long piece of baltic birch, you could nicely attach a wide top to this t-track design. My other jig I plan to make is for end drilling. This photo is of a table, Mine will be a jig that attaches the the t-track on my table and hangs off the left side of my top. I might try to hinge it with a screw down arm to lock it in place. This would be mainly for storage, but could allow for angles too.
PS, not my photo and I do not remember where I got it from.
BTW, you say that you would alter a few things. Just curious, what would you do diffrent?
]I mentioned earlier I think that a great thing is to be able to make a "drill table sled" If you glued a fence block to the top of a 3 foot long piece of baltic birch, you could nicely attach a wide top to this t-track design. My other jig I plan to make is for end drilling. This photo is of a table, Mine will be a jig that attaches the the t-track on my table and hangs off the left side of my top. I might try to hinge it with a screw down arm to lock it in place. This would be mainly for storage, but could allow for angles too.
PS, not my photo and I do not remember where I got it from.
BTW, you say that you would alter a few things. Just curious, what would you do diffrent?
Pipes
Member
Just a FYI thing !! The new model PSI is selling now after YOU loctight all the screws it works perfect NO problems after about 50 blanks .If you don't CA the screws it a just shake lose ! It also does NOT jam like the orignal !! much much beter design IMHO !!!
http://affordablepipes.com/
http://affordablepipes.com/
woodwish
Member
Lee,
I think yours is great, one of the best I have seen, but I think I would make three changes I think when I make one to replace my current one-
* Make a wider base on the back piece that is attached to the table, just to be sure it is totally vertical and more stable (although I admit it is overkill probably).
* You have plenty of adjustment forwards and backwards but I can't see any side to side adjustment. My table will shift slight as it goes up and down so I think I would make the hold-down holes as short slots so I can adjust side-to-side and front-to-back.
* I would also add some sort relief area around the bottom of the hole for sawdust chips that accidently get in there.
Out of operational curiousity- does it do OK with various sizes of blanks? Sometimes when I make slimlines my blanks are only 5/8" but other times they are up to 1" square. Also, after you drill one does the sawdust generated cause any problems? Do you vacumn or just brush it away?
My drill table and fence are very similar to yours, except I used plywood and covered with Formica that I had leftover from another project.
I think yours is great, one of the best I have seen, but I think I would make three changes I think when I make one to replace my current one-
* Make a wider base on the back piece that is attached to the table, just to be sure it is totally vertical and more stable (although I admit it is overkill probably).
* You have plenty of adjustment forwards and backwards but I can't see any side to side adjustment. My table will shift slight as it goes up and down so I think I would make the hold-down holes as short slots so I can adjust side-to-side and front-to-back.
* I would also add some sort relief area around the bottom of the hole for sawdust chips that accidently get in there.
Out of operational curiousity- does it do OK with various sizes of blanks? Sometimes when I make slimlines my blanks are only 5/8" but other times they are up to 1" square. Also, after you drill one does the sawdust generated cause any problems? Do you vacumn or just brush it away?
My drill table and fence are very similar to yours, except I used plywood and covered with Formica that I had leftover from another project.
Firefyter-emt
Member
I too would much rather have a wider clamp bars and might make another wider one laer on, but honestly, this one is dead on and stays that way. For the most part side to side is not needed as the blank is centered, however any movement (on mine at least) is easily taken up by moving the table side to side. Much better than making the clamp move too. I get it lined up with one hand knob loose and the table about 75% tight. I can move the clamp forwards and backwards (keep in mind, I can skew it quite a bit as the bolt shaft is a little smaller than the t-track slot)if I need to adjust it sideways I can knock it side to side by tapping the table. It works nice. (kinda like that end drilling jig I posted a photo of.. Now that is a lot of sideways movement!! [] I would highly recoment to not make the clamp slotted. It's not needed and might make it harder to fine tune.
Now the wood chips is a pain. If I make a new clamp I may get it all done and flip it over and drill a forstner bit hole about 1/8" deep at to bottom. I just blow it off a bit on the second blank and I slip the clamp off the table when not in use. Minor pain so it's not too bad. Now I made mine for 3/4" blanks. It's great for that and I hvaae done 1" blanks with no problems. Yes the clamp does not shut all the way like that, but no problems at all. You could make it with 3 cutouts and adjust the table left or right to do above & below 3/4" I have access to lot's of Paduck and there is a bunck of 2" x 1" stock. I might make a new clamp in Paduck. If I do this I will also add the 1" hole as I get a lot of 1" stock to mill into blanks.
] I would highly recoment to not make the clamp slotted. It's not needed and might make it harder to fine tune.Now the wood chips is a pain. If I make a new clamp I may get it all done and flip it over and drill a forstner bit hole about 1/8" deep at to bottom. I just blow it off a bit on the second blank and I slip the clamp off the table when not in use. Minor pain so it's not too bad. Now I made mine for 3/4" blanks. It's great for that and I hvaae done 1" blanks with no problems. Yes the clamp does not shut all the way like that, but no problems at all. You could make it with 3 cutouts and adjust the table left or right to do above & below 3/4" I have access to lot's of Paduck and there is a bunck of 2" x 1" stock. I might make a new clamp in Paduck. If I do this I will also add the 1" hole as I get a lot of 1" stock to mill into blanks.
woodwish
Member
Thanks for the response, and I agree with the side-to-side logic after reading your reply and thinking about it. I think the idea of drilling a relief with a forstner bit makes sense, just to eliminate the last little chip that doesn't get brushed out and then makes problems. Nice job, think I will try to get mine made in the next week or so. [8D]
Firefyter-emt
Member
One more tip. Everynow and then I have a blank that is slightly undersize. (I buy scrap exotic's and mill my own) Every now and then I get one that is a hair under due to planing, ect. My next one will be just 1mm or 2mm under the 3/4" blank so I can clamp one slightly undersized.
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