Seal-A-Cell Clear

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egnald

Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
3,152
Location
Columbus, Nebraska, USA
Has anyone used Seal-A-Cell Clear oil finish on their pens (or other stuff)?

I've read that it is a "tung oil" finish.
Other places I've seen it called a combination of oils, urethanes, and waxes.
From what I read on ingredients, how to apply it, etc., it almost sounds like a friction polish variant.
They tout that it keeps the wood's natural color.

Regards,
Dave
 

BULLWINKLE

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Joined
Nov 8, 2010
Messages
652
Location
Georgia
Dave, I've used oil finishes on wood for years. Always flat work. Never thought of using it on a pen but now I want to try.
There are numerous oils that are used to finish wood. Tung oil is one. Danish oil and walnut oil is also used. I myself prefer teak oil. Advantages are it doesn't "plasticize" the wood like CA. It feels like fine furniture keeping the feel of the wood.
It's very resistant to wear. This is because it soaks into the wood and doesn't just cover the outside. Best of all, unless it's badly scratched all you need to do to refinish it is rub more oil on it. You wouldn't need to disassemble the pen. It can be applied off the lathe.
Now for the only negative, it does take a long time to dry to the touch and up to several days to cure thoroughly. I'd recommend using a block of spare wood with a hole drilled into it to set the pen vertically to dry. This is the main difference between oils and friction polishing. Friction polishes on the spinning lathe and dries rapidly due to the heat generated from the friction of the lathe turning as you apply it. While friction polish may contain some oils, it's primarily wax based. I don't see any reason with applying oil on the spinning lathe but it will still take a longer time to dry than a friction polish.
 
Last edited:

GaryMGg

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2006
Messages
5,786
Location
McIntosh, Florida, USA.
I use Arm-R-Seal for many of my flat work projects. I prefer it to the glossy finish of Seal-A-Cell.
Never tried it on a pen.
Les R. Elm is one who wrote up his method:
If the link doesn't resolve, look in the IAP Resources under Finishing for pen dipping or minwax; there's also one for lacquer dipping.
 
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