Scratches on ebonite

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RDH79

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Mar 25, 2008
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Rimersburg, Pa, USA.
I have turned a couple ebonite pens and am having trouble getting a deep glossy shine. If that is possible with ebonite.
I have sanded to 12000 MM and can still see scratches. Not sure if I should just start at 2400 or 3200 and not 1500. I really havnt seen any body that has turned much ebonite on here. Its for a good customer and I need it to be as perfect as possible.
Thanks
Rich H
 
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Go back to wet 320 grit, making sure to cross sand between grits, and then try wetting the micro mesh with Brasso. It works for me.

Oh, by the way... I do put a brand new insert on the carbide Woodchuck Pen Pro before starting Ebonite, Bakelite or Casein. That is partly superstition and partly the knowledge that those materials LOVE sharp tools.
 
Rich you will need to use a scratch remover/polish if you are still seeing scratches. Ebonite will NOT shine up like resin.
 
try wetting the micro mesh with Brasso.

I like that idea but vowed to never use Brasso again when I left the military in 89. :tongue:

Mike:
I may interest you to know that the military folks don't even know what Brasso is anymore!

My, the times, they are a changing.

Seriously, Ebonite is one of the VERY FEW materials that I prefer Brasso over Novus II or PlastX. With Novus, care must be taken or it can actually "burn" Ebonite. DAMHIKT.
 
Well will i was wait for a reply I went out and tried starting at 3200. Them hit it with brasso just on a cloth. No luck was a little cloudy. I did turn it with a sharp insert.
Maybe when I turned it i burnt itt and thats why its dull looking. The scratches were not as bad this time though.
 
Contrary to belief, Ebonite and any vulcanite CAN have a high gloss just as any plastic. I do it with all Ebonite. I don't care for the matte finish.

It is true that it will burn. When it gets too hot it burns or scorches the surface. Keep it cool.
 
With Ebonite, my experience has been that if you ever smell the "burning rubber smell' while sanding or polishing, you've "cooked" it.

The "burnt rubber smell" is unavoidable when turning, but you shouldn't smell it when polishing.

I hope this helps.....Experience and a VERY light touch is what seems to work with Ebonite.


And Mike is spot on....If you try to make Ebonite shine like Lucite, Bakelite, PR, or AA...."you done went and COOKED it"! Ebonite has a "sneaky" shine...Not at all like the other material I just mentioned.
 
It has some fingerprints on it...look at the ball. Nice and shiney.
That color doesn't show the finish well either, but it does show it will shine.

I machine Ebonite every day...:biggrin:
 
It has some fingerprints on it...look at the ball. Nice and shiney.
That color doesn't show the finish well either, but it does show it will shine.

I machine Ebonite every day...:biggrin:

I wasn't "peeing on" Ebonite or your finish.... I hope that is NOT what I conveyed in my post.

I LOVE Ebonite. It is one of my favorite materials and one of my best sellers. In fact, I sell two or three Ebonite pens each week.

The shine is different. Ebonite has a "depth" of no other material that I have ever worked with.

The final shine is Ebonite is "deep and luxurious" and presents itself as very elegant.

Conversely, my PR and some Lucites are so shiney that I have to manipulate the photos to keep from seeing the lens manufacturer name, the "F" opening of the lens and the serial number.

WE BE EBONITE and stuff!
 
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try wetting the micro mesh with Brasso.

I like that idea but vowed to never use Brasso again when I left the military in 89. :tongue:

I have just started to use brasso as my final polish on acrylics. And, YUP, the first whiff of it and I was right back in 1977 polishing my belt brasses for Company Commander's Inspection.:hypnotized::hypnotized::hypnotized:

Happy Days!!
 
I've had very good luck getting a deep shine on Ebonite by wet sanding and MM'ing to 12000 (cross sanding between grits) and finishing on the buffing wheel (Beall wood buff system.... white diamond compound and wheel only).
 
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