Scratch free black ebonite

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Carl Fisher

Carl Fisher

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Jun 7, 2011
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Cape Coral, FL
So I consider myself fairly well versed in finishing most materials to a scratch free finish. Black ebonite however eludes me. I've tried several different methods and speeds and always seem to end up with some form of scratching visible under a light.

I've tried various combinations of MM, 2 step and 3 step polishing systems, buffing, etc... So what's the trick that works for you?
 
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I could say finger pressure is the key but it really depends on many things, like loading value on the sanding media you are using can play a very key role. What are the scratches looking like?
 
Carl,
Try sanding/wet sanding your last couple of grades lengthwise only with the lathe off. Then apply plastic polish by hand-lengthwise only with lathe off. Let completely dry then buff off by hand with t shirt material. Sometimes I use the plastic polish twice.
Then buff with rouge on a buffing wheel..buffing lengthwise only and then the clean buffing wheel

As we sand, wet sand, polish and buff, we usually are doing this with the lathe running. Every step, you are putting rotational marks on the blank. Not what you want. When you get done, take a digital pic and then enlarge it. You will probably see marks you cannot see by eye!
The dark colors are like a mirror and you see everything.
Hope this helps.
 
I use a product that I bought from the auto shop for removing scratches from car paint. The one that I get is made by Turtle wax and is called scratch free. I am sure that you can get a similar product. This gives me a beautiful shine and removes all the scratches.

Donovan
 
Unlike my other methods, I do carry the wet sanding from start to finish with ebonite. So far the best I've found is to keep the lathe speed down in the 300-400 range when spinning it. I think initially I was way too fast which would play into Andy's suggestion that ANY form of heat is bad.

As for the polishes after MM, I've tried Novus 3 then Novus 2 which I wasn't happy with. I've also tried the 3-step micro magic which was closer, but again not good.

I have been sanding laterally as well. I've gotten it to the point where there are no more deep scratches anywhere, but typically end up with very light surface scratching that nothing seems to want to remove.

I can do black acrylics and PR with no problems at all. Ebonite is just finicky.
 
NOVUS 3, 2, after sanding, and then polish with both tripoli and blue bar, then NOVUS 1

.....I sand with 150, 240, 320, 400 and then i wet sand with the following grits.....400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, then I polish with brown tripoli and final with blue bar.

Pitoon
 
Last edited:
Pitoon said:
NOVUS 3, 2, after sanding, and then polish with both tripoli and blue bar, then NOVUS 1

.....I sand with 150, 240, 320, 400 and then i wet sand with the following grits.....400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, then I polish with brown tripoli and final with blue bar.

Pitoon
Click to expand...


O U C H ! ! !
 
Seems like everyone has just about covered polishing the ebonite, but I'll throw my 2 cents worth in. I sand dry down to 600, then progressively wet sand with 1,000, 2,000, 3,000 and then 5,000. with each grit I sand radial and then lengthwise. Finally, I use Simichrome polish.

Ben
 
Hi
Im curious about the sand paper used as I don't like the paper used from the pen turner companies as they are to coarse even at 400 ,what is the the most common paper used that would be soft.
Thanks ,Terry
 
I use mostly Klingspor's paper but Mirka is another great brand. You're looking for a finer scratch pattern but that just comes from trial and error to find what suits you I think.
 
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