Sawstop Owners - how do you like this saw?

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jdmyers4

Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2006
Messages
279
Location
14127 129th Ave NE; Kirkland, WA 98034
I don't currently own a table saw, but I'm currently looking at the SawStop PCS. The other saw I am considering is the Hammer K3 Winner (smaller version sliding table). But I'm leaning towards the SawStop for a couple of reasons:

1. Safety features = peace of mind
2. I don't plan on doing a lot of sheet goods
4. While the slider would be nice for crosscutting, I think having a good miter gauge / sled would suit my needs.
5. I like that the SS has more room to the left of the blade.
6. Ripping looks like it would be more comfortable on the SS.

I'd like to hear what SS owners have to say about their saw. How do you like it?

John
 
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Love mine. Actually seem to be more careful than before....If the brake was ever to fire, my wife would have my "rear"...

I do get frustrated on occasion. Want to make one simple cut, and find for whatever reason the sawstop thinks the brake is too far from the blade...have to adjust which takes about 5 minutes. It would be good if the bypass would let you bypass any errors, instead of simply bypassing the "hot dog saver".

Tom
 
We got one at work recently. It takes some getting used to but for the most part it is a nice saw. Well built, well packaged and well engineered.

I work at a University so we got it as a safety issue to prevent a serious injury to a student.

I do prefer the old unisaw we replaced it with. It was easier to deal with changing to a dado head and back to a regular saw blade. You have to change the brake cartridge to a special dado one and then back again.

The splitter is also back further and not really as thick as the one on the unisaw. I've had pieces kick back because of pinching on the blade because they have not gotten to the splitter AND the splitter isn't as wide or wider than the blade.

I can see why industry avoids this type of saw even though it will prevent serious accidents because of changeover time.

The art department got one several years back and a sculpture student was cutting some foil backed foam board and crashed it. It takes some retraining from the old mindset as to what you can cut without using the brake bypass.
 
The splitter is also back further and not really as thick as the one on the unisaw. I've had pieces kick back because of pinching on the blade because they have not gotten to the splitter AND the splitter isn't as wide or wider than the blade.

I think you might have a splitter problem. Mine is less than a eighth of an inch from the blade.....and you would never be able to use a splitter that was thicker than the blade!

I also forgot to mention, another ~small problem with SawStop, is you cannot use any blades that are not 10" or 8". The Lonnie Bird crown molding set comes to mind. That is why I want to be able to bypass the entire electronics sometimes.

Tom
 
I have a saw with a sliding miter table (BT3100 from Ryobi). Love it. Will not buy another saw without one. Can't count how many times it has come in handy. Provides stability that can't be matched.

Hammer is a great company to. When upgrade time comes, they are on my short list.
 
I have had a SawStop in our workshop for almost 4 years or so. It works great and the hydraulic lift can't be beat for moving it around. :smile:

As far as making blade to cartridge adjustments I found that by using one brand of quality blade that is minimized. I use mostly Forrest blades because they are a full 10" in diameter and I measure before buying, any other cheaper blades for use on dirty woods to make sure they are a full 10" as well. I gave away the 2 Freud blades I had because they are closer to 9 7/8" and required adjusting the brake when switching back and forth with other blades. They are also at the bottom limit of the adjustments so might run out of adjustment range if sharpened a few times.

The manual that comes with the SawStop is second to none. I think they can be downloaded if you want to learn more about the saw.

I haven't used the European sliders like the Hammer but they are supposed to be great machines and the safety features built into them, blade brakes, riving knives etc., are only recent additions to saws here. Some of them do not accept dado blades, so if that is important to you it may not be the kind of saw you want.
 
They are nice but If I got one my Grandkids would want to slice hot dogs. Knowing them they would probably want to rip them instead cross cutting. If I were younger and in the market I would consider it. I like my Ryobi BT3 just fine it does what I want and have an after market splitter and blade guard on it. In California there is Legislator who is try to pass a law to require saw manufactures to equip all saws sold in CA starting in 2015 to have Saw Stop type brake them. One of the big contributors is the Attorney who holds the Patent on the Saw Stop. Don't know how far it has gotten but it will probably pass.
 
I have had a SS for 3 years now. It is the 52" 3hp pro model. It was huge money, more than I had ever paid for a tool before. It is really worth it. It is very well made, and the quality is great.

I do agree with what was said here that it is a pain to change to a dado, and while I have the stuff, I avoid it. I disagree with the comment on the riving knife, it seems fine to me. I graduated from a 1.5 hp to a 3Hp motor with this saw, it has awesome power making cuts easier and safer itself.

If you do any flat work at all, the 52" table is awesome, While it makes the saw huge, it too, is well worth it.

As you said in your opening post, it really does give you peace of mind. I belong to another woodworking site and SS is highly critized by some members there. I have noticed that their criticism is based on the SS advertising and their perception of SS trying to force other manufacturers to use their patent. I have almost never seen any criticism of the saw itself. I do not know or care, for that matter, of the SS politics, I just know that I REALLY like mine and would buy it again in a heartbeat.
 
I have the PCS 1.75HP version with the 36" rails. Mind you, my previous saw was an old ryobi (which was just like this one) that had the smallest table ever. I don't change blades, and have only had it about 6 months, but I absolutely love it. It feels like a real saw and it's super quiet.
 
I have a 5hp cabinet saw stop , love it ,:smile:saved grand kids finger!!!!!!!!!!!!!:smile::smile:


You can not just say "saved grand kids finger!!!!!!!!!!!!!:smile::smile:" and leave it at that... you have to give loads more details.

Back to the topic at hand, I have had a 3HP PCS with 52" rails for almost 3 years now. I love the saw. I have used a Powermatic 2000 and 66 as well has the new Delta Unisaw. I still love my SS obove them all. Although, just because the metal detector says no metal, the lead musket ball will still trigger the break. That is how I got my fancy clock!

Sawstop Clock.JPG
 
I got the contractor version of the SS almost a year ago. I can echo others' comments- LOVE it. Had one issue with the riving knife. Very well designed and well worth the (expensive) price.
Catherine
 
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