Saw help

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
dansills

dansills

Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2012
Messages
387
Location
Newberry FL 32669
I am certainly no tool expert but hoping someone can help. I recently switched from a table saw to a small delta benchtop bandsaw ... Well I hate it. Thing shakes like mad, blade flexes From side to side and the cuts are just awful. No way to get good clean straight cuts for segmenting. I have tried tuning the guides, tension and even bought new blades. I still get the same sloppy cutting and did i mention vibration? Im setting at the end of my driveway for free as soon as i find a good replacement. I so wish i had my table saw back but the noise is just intolerable for me and really just too much saw for pen blanks. Any suggestions on what kind of saw best for blank cutting and segmenting?
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
A disc sander can clean up any saw marks. The bandsaw you have should work well for 1/8" to 1/4" materials. For thicker materials, a larger, more powerful bandsaw with a wider blade will work better. I use my bandsaw for cutting blanks and rough cutting to length. But for cutting segments, I prefer a miter saw.
 
it sounds crazy in this day and age, but you would be amazed what you can do with a simple wood jig, some clamps and a good hand saw. i recommend a japanese tooth pull saw, i've done alot of segmenting this way. no noise and very little dust. and most importantly its a heck of alot safer when you are dealing with tiny pieces.
 
Dan --

Precision and/or power generally come with a price. Add quiet, and tis more true.

Precision and lower noise are available with the Byrnes saw -- but not cheaply.

Small miter saws are not quiet, but if you make accurate jigs, they can be sufficiently precise for pens.

Contrary to the thoughts of some, bandsaws are generally not in the conversations of those seeking precision. Segmented turners doing gallery work are using table saws and miter saws with jigs and as needed with fine tuning with disk sanders.
 
The problem with band saws is the blade is thin so it has enough flex to follow the bend on the wheels. So the blade flexes by design bench top models if they are smaller have more need of flex to turn in the smaller size wheels. Also the narrower the blade the more flex that is why re-sawing is done with a wider blade. Also tooth configuration & number of teeth per inch makes a difference also.
 
Dan, it sounds like your table saw was one that used a universal motor. These do whine quite loudly. Most belt driven table saws are much more quiet with most of the noise coming from the blade when it is cutting. A good contractor's saw should serve you well if you have room for it.
 
alamocdc said:
Dan, it sounds like your table saw was one that used a universal motor. These do whine quite loudly. Most belt driven table saws are much more quiet with most of the noise coming from the blade when it is cutting. A good contractor's saw should serve you well if you have room for it.
Click to expand...

I see what you mean by if I have the room for it ... I don't. Someone had mentioned giving this saw a try for detail cutting/segmenting?

5 in. Portable Flooring Saw RLS1351-RLS1351 at The Home Depot

Thoughts?
 
I understand the Byrne table saws are really great---I use a Proxxon table saw purchased from Woodcraft--a bit expensive, but it sure does a nice job, especially when segmenting.
 
Dan, the flooring saw is basically a circular saw, which has the same kind of loud whiney universal motor as the saw you didn't like.

Okay, you don't have room for a contractor's saw. So keep an eye on craigslist for older (1960's and '70s) Craftsman table saws and the like. They are belt driven and have a smaller footprint.
 
Dan,

Go to Southeast Sharpening in Gainesville and ask them to make a bandsaw blade for you.
Get the widest one you can.
Also, very, very carefully, sand both edges on the back side of the blade to round off the corners.

This may solve your problem.

Gary
 
dansills said:
I am certainly no tool expert but hoping someone can help. I recently switched from a table saw to a small delta benchtop bandsaw ... Well I hate it. Thing shakes like mad, blade flexes From side to side and the cuts are just awful. No way to get good clean straight cuts for segmenting. I have tried tuning the guides, tension and even bought new blades. I still get the same sloppy cutting and did i mention vibration? Im setting at the end of my driveway for free as soon as i find a good replacement. I so wish i had my table saw back but the noise is just intolerable for me and really just too much saw for pen blanks. Any suggestions on what kind of saw best for blank cutting and segmenting?
Click to expand...

:eek::eek: From your disscription of the problems you are having with your band saw, I would guess that your rubber tires on your wheels are loose and moving from side to side. If your tires are slipping and you apply more tension, it only makes it worse. Loose tires cause vibration, noise, and blade wobble. These would be the things I would try. First - If possable bolt the bandsaw down to the stand , table, or workbench. Open up the guard and run the saw to see if the rubber tires are runnin up on the sides of the wheels, or the wheels are wobbeling side to side. Most problems will be on the top wheel because it is adjustable. If the tires are running up or being squeezed the blade will flex from side to side, make a loud noise, and give you a very bad cut. To fix this problem, remove the blade so there is no tension on the rubber tire, and run some thin CA on the edges of the tires front and back. This should stop the tire from slipping or rideing up on the rim, eliminate the noise, and stop the blade from flexing. Now you can center the blade on the wheel and adjust your bearings or blocks to keep your blade straight. If this isn't cureing the problem, look for the top wheel to be running uneven. There is usualy an adjustment for that. In order to resaw on a bandsaw it's best to have a large blade ( 2 - 3 ) inches wide, a high fence set to the runout of your blade or a pivot point set to the thickness of your cut. If using a narrow blade, extreem tension on your saw blade must be used to keep it from following the grain along with a high fence set to the offset or runout of your saw. Only allow just enough room under your blade guide to allow your workpiece to clear. If all this fails, try a better blade. Yours may not be perfectly welded together. Once you get your saw running to your liking, go to our library and look for articles on how to make jigs for segmenting and blank cutting. Jim S
 
Last edited:
GaryMGg said:
Dan,

Go to Southeast Sharpening in Gainesville and ask them to make a bandsaw blade for you.
Get the widest one you can.
Also, very, very carefully, sand both edges on the back side of the blade to round off the corners.

This may solve your problem.

Gary
Click to expand...

:eek::eek: Gary: I wouldn't recommend sandpaper for this operation, it will grab onto the sawblade. Use a sharpening stone with a flat surface to round down the square corners on the rear of the blade. If you want a smoother cut, use the stone on the sides of the blade to reduce the offset of the teeth. Jim S
 
GaryMGg said:
Jim,
Good add. Yes, a stone is the tool.
I wouldn't do this with the power on either -- but I didn't think I had to say that initially.
Click to expand...

:bananen_smilies022:You need to have the saw running or you will be there for days trying the round a hardened blade evenly. Thats why I recomend a stone with flat sides at 90*. The longer the better. Place the stone flat on the table, and use the center of the stone to do the rounding. To reduce the kerf, lightly touch the sides of the teeth to the stone. Don't take all the set out or your blade or it will run hot and burn your wood. Let the motor do the work. Also if you have a crack or bad weld, it will make a click as the blade runs on the stone. Jim S
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom