Sanding Sealer

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bnosie

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Can someone give me a rundown on sanding sealers? I really don't know much about them but hear about using them with open grain woods. I've turned some pens with woods like padauk that turned out nice, but seem rather "holey". I got some Minwax sanding sealer, but haven't used it yet. Should it be used under a blo/ca finish? Or is the ca enough of a sealer? How is it applied? After sanding? Before? During? Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
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DCBluesman

Passed Away Mar 3, 2016
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Drew...You should give my new product a try. It might simplify things even further as it may replace your EEE/Hut/carnauba process. It's a simple wipe-on, wipe-off, buff process. I'll be posting a pic or a sindora burl pen where all I used was a sanding sealer and TSW-1121.
Originally posted by whatwoodido
<br />I use Myland's Sanding Sealer which is laquer based. It isn't a grain filler, it just seals the wood, which is really important for me as I use EEE paste and it keeps the paste from collecting in and darkening the grain on woods like, paduak, oak, mahogany, mesquite, etc. I usually sand down to about 320 (sometimes 400, or 600 depending on the type of wood) then use the sanding sealer, then sometimes hit it with sandpaper again. Once in a while I use a second applicaion of sanding sealer, typically only on the very fine grain woods. Then use the EEE Paste, followed by carnuba wax or sometimes Hut Crystal followed by carnuba wax. This process is far to uncomplicated for many on this list, but I get great feedback from customers, and not a complaint yet. The process if fast and as a result I can keep the cost of my pens low as I have less labor invested in the product.

Drew
 
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I have read about the EEE paste as part of the finish process. So, I bought a jar. Got it in a few days ago. I read the little brochure sent with it and open it up and smell it. It is some kind of wax with tripoli added to it.

Does the wax cause any problems with putting a finish over wood that has been polished with it?
Shellac should not be a problem but how about lacquer or water base finishes? Any one have any experience with that?
 

DCBluesman

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In general, finishing waxes, including those with mild abrasives like tripoli, should be applied after the base finish...be it shellac, lacquer, poly or whatever. The wax is a surface protectant which provides a renewable lustre. Think of it much like waxing over the paint on your car.
 

bnosie

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Logansport, IN, USA.
Lou,

I've just read about your offer for people to test your TSW-1121, but too late, you had all you needed. When/where will it become available? If you need more testers, I'd be willing.
 

DCBluesman

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Bill...I don't see your email address in the member list, but if you'll email me your snail mail address (to DCBluesman@hotmail.com ), I'll get a sample out to you. I'm hoping to make it generally available for purchase by IAP members by Thanksgiving and going public with it by the 1st of the year (assuming that I get a good response from the test). [8D]
Originally posted by bnosie
<br />Lou,

I've just read about your offer for people to test your TSW-1121, but too late, you had all you needed. When/where will it become available? If you need more testers, I'd be willing.
 
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