Sanding problem

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Status
Not open for further replies.
W

woodwish

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2004
Messages
966
Location
Lynn Haven, Florida, USA.
This sounds like a very simple problem but it is one that it really bothering me. I have been turning some very light colored woods lately into pens, mostly trees lost to Hurricane Ivan that I am making into some special Christmas gifts. There has been some magnolia, willow, plum and others. The problem is when I am sanding, no matter how careful I am, the sandpaper will go slightly over on the bushings. The bushings will leave dark residue on the sandpaper and in turn gets on the wood, staining it to a greyish color. I can sand it off but half the time it slips into the bushing again and I start sanding all over, evenually making the pen too small in diameter it seems. Any solutions for this other than being more careful (which I have tried)? Mostly CSUSA bushings if that matters. I guess it does it on all woods but mostly I use darker woods and it must not show. These are very special gifts and really want the wood to be the right color. Help!
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Hi Woodwish---There's a variety of ideas that may help you with this dilemma. When I get close to the bushings I try to use a good clean piece of sandpaper---then I work from approximately the center of the pen to the bushing and lift the sandpaper---then from the center of the pen to the other bushing and lift the sandpaper---and I'm careful to not bring sandpaper that might have some residue from the bushing back to sand (unless I clean the sandpaper off first). I know some others make their own bushings with corian or even wood to solve this problem. You do need to be more careful with the light colored woods as most bushings I've had can cause this to happen.
 
I agree with Tom..
Also you might try leaving the blanks just a little larger at the bushings. This will help in your problem also. Some like to do this and let the wood wear in.
Look at some of the pics in the gallery for design.
Harry
 
Woodwish:
I Remove the bushings for the pen kit I just turned and go to the 7mm bushing. Ido this to finish sand 400 grit thru the mm's. I also can put on my blo/ca finish this way. On the slim line pens I remove the center bushing all togeather and use 2 short pieces of brass tubes at each end. I do use a set of micrometors to know I am very close before I start my sanding. You can also put tape around the bushings before sanding. I find this to be a pain--tape on tape off! Hope this helps Greg Huey
 
Take a piece of wax paper and when you have sanded with your first sanding grit and after sanding long ways put a THIN coat of thin CA on the blank and bushings while turning at the lowest speed.
This will leave a light coat of CA on the bushing.
Sand your pen through the rest of the grits continuing to be careful to stay away from the bushings.
I have had this problem when working with lighter colored woods and foundthis method by accident.
Normally my bushings are covered with CA and I don't worry about it.
I take skew or parting tool to Separate the bushing from the blank if I think I'll have a problem removing the blank from the bushing.
A Twist will normally remove the bushing from the tube.
If you think you are going to have a problem put a piece of wax paper between the blank and the bushing.
 
I was going to suggest what Eagle mentioned. removing the bushings is also a good one. but for me It wouldn't work. I'm the type that just won't take the time.. I have also seen it suggested to make a wood spacer to go between the bushing and the pen barrel. it gives you that little extra room to sand the very end of the blank without touching the bushing. One last suggestion that I have not sen yet. try cleaning the black stuff off with denatured alcohol. I keep a can within arm reach. I always use it just before applying my finish as I am a bad one for not keeping my hands off the wood while turning.
 
I 'dust" the blanks after each grit with a folded piece of paper towel. Since the dust is not sticking to the blank or bushings, it comes off easily. I also use all the other suggestions above.
 
I also cut my sandpaper into small strips. About 1/2" by 2". This makes it easier to control the paper. Also do not use dark iron oxide paper, especially in the coarser grits! This will leave a dark residue in itself. I learned that very early in my penturning[:(] Aluminum Oxide paper (yellowish colored) is easily obtained at Home Depot in 220, 320, 400 grits. Kirk [8D]
 
I've never experienced the problem that you're talking about , but I use wet-dry paper exclusively and maybe that's the reason . I did run into it once , but that was because the paper had a plastic backing and it melted leaving the black marks .
 
I ran into the same problem today. I was turning poplar, and all was fine until I got to the 600 grit paper. Then instantly, started to get the staining. Had to go all the way back and start over. Got it all out, but was very careful when I got back to that 600!
 
Staining can always be a problem with light colored woods. The ultimate solution is using wood bushings, and then turning and sanding to size with a dial caliper. No metal, no stain.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom